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Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Skeena"


Steve W

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Thanks Robert! I read once that true craftsmanship was very much about being stubborn as talent. I'd guess people may include that word in a description of me. I was originally in a hurry to build this, but now I've sort of taking a different approach. I don't want it to become a chore. Last night I coated the three rear lockers while I watched Buffalo Sabres Hockey. When I shut off the shop lights it was just a nice feeling to have progressed without the worry of an end date. I felt that vibe from Pete when I met him and his wife at the MASCF.

 

I do need to post some pictures soon.

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Sabres?! Forget everything I said. Go Sharks! :)

Seriously, it's hard to remember these vessels are built for our pleasure. The whole,ordeal,is,supposed to be fun...

And, life? Well, let's say she's just gonna keep smacking us around, so we just have to keep getting up and carrying on, eh?

I plan to drag myself all the way out there next year, boat done or no, so maybe I can see yours in the flesh then?

And, yes, keep posting. You ARE an inspiration.

Peace,

Robert

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I did what Jay I think describes as the inverted ribbon toss yesterday. I'd been putting this off because I knew it wasn't going to be fun.

 

I woke up at 6am, filleted all the internal seems inside the module (water ballast and the aft flotation) which took me a few hours. I then went and played in a group jam some guitar (fun). I then watched the unwatchable Buffalo Bills miss the playoffs again (not fun) and by then the fillets were just cured right to add tape. About 6:30 when the Raiders were putting a beat down on my team I decided if I was going to be miserable I might as well combine the pain. I started taping the seams and I finished and cleaned the mess by midnight. 

 

I need to cut all the weep hole and re-coat those areas. 

 

I don't really ever want to do that again. Thank god it's over.

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Just in time for you, I JUST learned a neat trick.

Lay out your fillet. Then, lay your tape on a piece of plastic. I used strips cut from a shower curtain liner.

Saturate the tape with resin on the plastic, then lift the tape, plastic and all, and invert it into the fillet.

Use a tool to smoothe the glass and fillet to shape together, right through the plastic film. Leave the plastic in place, then come back a day later, and the plastic comes right away to reveal a nice, smooth joint.

Yeah. I figured it out almost too late to use on my frolic, but in plenty of time to use it to finish my CS.

Peace,

Robert

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Speaking of peel ply. I am just about to put down my bunk tops. But I didn't do the foot well yet. I faired the floor and filleted the corners. Do I use a big piece of glass cloth and somehow make it fit. Do I dart the corners? Do I use five pieces of cloth? Who has done this that is happy with the results? I need to do this on a smaller scale for the outboard motor "well" also.

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There are a few pictures of Graham doing this part in the Core Sound 17 Album. He used one piece of cloth with the corners cut and brought it up the sides about an inch and a half. It could also be done in pieces but the corners are tricky no matter what. If you get a stubborn air bubble, try coming back in a few hours when the epoxy is starting to get really sticky and you can usually mash a stubborn spot down for good.

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Steve, I also used one piece of cloth. After prepping the surface I cut the cloth to suit, cut the corners, then wet it out in situ. Unfortunately I forgot the peel ply, so I recommend that you use peel ply, which means use plenty of resin in the wet-out. Later, I sanded back any rough edges and it has worked out quite nicely (once I filled the weave etc).

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Part number 24, the mizzen step gets tabbed into the bottom of the tank and to the bulkhead. There was a mizzen step support pad (#23) that goes on top of this and the floorboard goes on top of that. Do I A: glue the pad  to the floorboard or do I B: glue the pad to the top of the knee and then hope to bond the floorboard to it? I'm thinking both ways have ups and downs.

 

I am also thinking if I made a new pad that spanned the floorboard supports (#45 -mines a bit small for the span) and laid a straightedge across the top I could tab the knee to this underneath and be pretty assured to get a good floorboard bond. Any thoughts?

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Steve,...

The mizzen step & support consist of a vertical piece the aft edge of which is epoxied to the fwd side of the bulkhead and its bottom to the bottom of the tank. Its height should be such that the horizontal piece can just fit on the top of the vertical [piece] so as to be flush with the top edge of the bulkhead and bottom surface of the footwell sole. The two pieces [with 3" holes] will be epoxied to the top of the footwell sole in a position just over the "T" support within the tank. Small possitional adjustments [of the two top pieces] are made so that the mizzen mast has the required rake and is parallel to the main mast. I think I have that right. Alan can confirm it for sure. I first put the support on the wrong side of the bulkhead.

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I think sometime I think too much! I've re-cut a new top "horizontal piece" and glued it flush to the side supports and bulkhead. Tonight I'm going to trim the vertical piece enough to slip it in place and glue it in. I'll then filet the piece and tape it bottom aft and top. When I glue the floorboard down I'll put some thickened epoxy on this pad. I guess we'll never see the squeeze-out which kind of bugs me. I'm wired a bit too tight sometimes.  

 

Which brings up my next question. Do I glass the underside of the floorboard?

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Pete....that picture helps describe what I did. The top horizontal piece on mine I just re-cut from some extra Okume B&B threw in with my kit. I made it full width with the right angle to glue it to the back and sides. I used a piece of plastic over its top to glue it in with a full span board to keep it flush.  Because the hull drops going forward, tonight I'll whittle away the verticle piece until it fits nice underneath. I did coat it already so I'll have to sand it a bit then fillet and tape it in.

 

I'm hoping to get many hours in this weekend. Merry Christmas!

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Supports the mizzen step on my build.... when I bonded the sole after 26 ins and outs, I put a big wad of toothpaste consistency epoxy on the pad that supports the sole. A leak from the ballast tank to anywhere would be a mess. I made a video of the inside of the center bay of the ballast tank/sole bond with my cell phone on a fishing tape to confirm the bond.

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AmosSwogger ... "Does this support hold the weight of the mizzen mast and prevent the cockpit sole from sagging?"

Probably "yes" to both. The mast partner/thwart helps some. The aluminum mizzen weighs 22 lbs -- even more with sail & rigging. And when trailering greater stress with the crutch [for both masts] and road bumps, potholes, etc.

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