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Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Skeena"


Steve W

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Jay, it's good to here that from you. Remember when I first got my kit and I was anxious to get going. I was jealous of your fast progress then, but I'm finally making the kind of progress I anticipated.

 

That is good to here about your quick launching. A boat that launches slow gets used so much less. I saw some of the guys had those tube sail bags. Do you?

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Why not, if it is a fully sealed battery. I installed mine in the forward locker space, up against the bulkhead. I checked with the manufacturer who sent me technical data to show that under normal operating conditions the batteries with the recycling passageways in the top emit no flammable or other gases. The one exception, apparently, is if it is over-charged by a faulty charger, in which case the seals open up to release gas to avoid over-pressure in the battery.

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Drew: The tech data is pretty much the same as yours. I am fabricating a flat shelf for it to sit on and a hold down. I think 35 Amp is plenty for the few things I have and the 50W solar panel. I am sorting this system out over the Christmas weekend. I wished I had drilled some paths for wiring ahead of time in the bunk bulkheads. My plan is to put the solar controller and a non-switched fuse block up forward with a 12V cig outlet next to it feeding the cabin lights. In a separate feed inside the cabin entrance will switched fuse block for nav/anchor lights (already purchased) cig and USB out and one cabin light. I'm going to stick with a hand held GPS and VHF for now.

 

Amos: Thank goodness for Graham, Doug, Chick, Jay, Drew, Pete and all the others who have led the way and of course Alan and Graham for answering every question. I can't wait until we all can get our boats together and group sail.

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I am thinking of putting my solar panel on top of the "garage" I think there is plenty of room there. I'd like to hear from Graham as to why he located it on the hatch, as the panel is the same one as used on Carlita, and it's pretty heavy. By putting it on top of the "garage" it would make the hatch lighter. But maybe I'm missing something.  B & B thinks about this stuff all day so I am reluctant to go against the grain. But that decision isn't today's.

 

Because I decided to use the AGM Battery forward (low heavy battery down low and a bit forward), and because my lights are going to be on the masthead (ordered Chick's light from Argentina because I am cheap) I am thinking that the simplest system (always best IMHO) would be something like this:

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Upside:

  • Shortest amount of wiring and shortest distances.
  • Charge controller and fuse panels close to battery.
  • Minimal drilling to run wires.
  • Clean look. Lightest weight.
  • A single pair of wires led aft to power Outlet and led light.
  • Power outlet for charging forward for charging stuff.

Downside:

  • Switches for navigation lights are forward and not as easy to get at without going in the cabin.
  • Battery monitor not as convenient to see.

The electrical components I chose are shown. The fuse panel is from Blue Sea systems and is very high quality. I am very impressed with it. The fan is from my Scamp Camper and uses very little power. I will probably make a temporary mount and a 12V power chord on it for use when necessary.

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I am thinking of mounting the panel in that bulkhead as high as possible and putiing the fuse panel and charge controller on a panel somewher up above and on the starboard side. Do you need to see the charge controller all the time?

 

Please offer suggestions, commentary. My skin is thick. Some say my head is too.

 

 

 

 

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Steve,...

My choice for a distribution panel at Blk 3 was governed mainly by the location of my battery (under the companionway step) and ease of access from the cockpit.  Also, its volume seems (to me) not to occupy any useful space.  And easy access for any wiring changes.  BTY I've installed a battery base and reserved space in the forward locker for a 2nd battery if ever needed.  However, I'd hate to give up that space for stowage of cooking pots, pans, etc.

 

On December 11 I posted photos of the "Masthead" light that I planned to deploy on the rare occasions that Chessie would be underway using her OBM.  My anchor light choice was still pending.  But now, I've changed my mind after a more careful reading of the updated CG Navigation Light Rules.

 

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Navigation-Light-Rules

 

Especially note that "Boats < 40' under power can substitute a single all-around light for separate stern and masthead lights."

 

Apparently, recent changes to the CG rules allow this compromise.  Also note that the change should appear to allow (for boats < 40') a single fixture (and all-around white over a tri-color) on top of the mast to serve three functions: 1) sail-only tri-color, 2) motorering alone OR while also sailing, and 3) while anchored.  The switching would have to allow all lights to be ON for the #2 option.  I haven't figured out the required cables -- probably 4.

 

So, now my plan is to mount a Telescoping All-Round LED Nav Light on the deck edge at approximately Blk 2 location (or perhaps on the sheer strake -- at cabin roof edge near Blk 3).  It's maximum height is 50" which would put it higher than the dodger that will eventually be over the companionway.  If either furled sail "shadows" the light -- I'll ajust the height of the light and / or the tack (with furled luff).  It will be used routinely as Chessie's anchor light -- and rarely as the required night "steaming" light.

 

Commentary would be appreciated.  Like Steve, "My skin is thick.  Some say my head is too."

 

The masthead light shown (in the 12/11 posting) with its vacuum cleaner cable is now for sale to anyone who will come by my shop or spring for the shipping cost (i.e., nothing for the light itself).

 

Here are links to the telescoping light and mounting hardware:

 

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--telescoping-all-round-led-nav-light--13022181?recordNum=6

 

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/perko--pole-light-bases--P009_277_001_030?recordNum=6

 

The appropriate base would be the "1045 Series, Round"

 

 

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Steve,...  I've been thinking about your plan to have the solar panel over the garage.  You may want to reconsider.  Use of the space over the garage (for the stowage of the opened fwd hatch) is essential for raising/lowering the mainmast as well for anchoring and rigging.  With the panel on top of the fwd hatch, when [it 's] opened all the way, the panel will need protection from slamming down on the garage roof.  That can be accomplished with carefully placed cushions or other limiting measures.  If the panel is on the garage, cushioning (or limits) will still be needed -- and the effective top of the garage will be raised at least as much as the panel's thickness.  And that will require an increase in the height of the frd hatch cover and maybe its coaming..

 

I, too, am concerned with the added weight and effort to open the hatch -- especially from standing in the companionway.  Maybe there is some mechanical way to reduce that effort.  Maybe some phnumatic leverage like used on the back window on my pickup cap?  It would have to be able to flex thru 180 degrees instead of only about 110.  I can't remember if Graham has installed some mechanical help on Carlita.

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Hi Steve,  sorry for the delayed response on sail covers.  I R&D (researched and duplicated) Joe an Sally’s sail covers their EC 22.  I continued to monkey with it and now I have a #10 zipper at the mast and along the bottom.  When using it as a sail covers I use the tradition twist locks and snaps including the sprit.  When I trailer the boat I just zip the zipper along the bottom of the sail ( excluding the sprit) and remove the sail from the mast with the battens installed. And lay the now neatly bundled almost tube bag in the cabin.  We can bend the sail on the mast without removing the cover by unzipping the mast and sliding the hanks on, then unzip an remove the sail covers.  Good protection for the sails, quick an easy.   Part of my program to expedite the rigging process.  Now about 10 minutes from arrival on trailer to departure under sail. 

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On the solar panel issue we bought 2 flexible solar panels and used rivnuts and #8 screws to attach them to the deck.  They have a few control lines shading them but doesn’t seem to affect the output much. Light,  relatively inexpensive and work good.  Instructions said not to walk excessively  on them.......Still work fine must not be “excessive “! 

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Steve,

 

Like peter suggested, I tend to walk on the garage when raising the main mast. The dodger when it is down covers about half of the garage if you are going to have one.

 

Yes my panel increases the weight of the hatch. I would prefer it if it was lighter but it is not too onerous to live with. I see that Sunpower now has a 50 watt flexible solar panel that is 22" square and has a shipping weight of 3# https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1UK50H/ref=asc_df_B01N1UK50H5311125/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01N1UK50H&linkCode=df0&

 

I like to have my electrical panel just inside the companionway hatch so that I can switch on the GPS or turn on the tricolor with having to climb inside.

 

The battery would be fine where you are going to put it. Like Peter said that is where I stow my larger cooking tools.

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Even though the light is not good in my garage, here are some shots. We go cruising after Christmas day so I will let you know if we find any of this doesn't work out, like the solar panels as the garage for the sliding hatch. I have installed LED strip lights throughout. Up forard is the porta potti and the battery. We will see if the smell becomes a problem, but the cover hatch seems effective.

 

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Thanks for all the suggestions.  This is the fun part I want to sort out before I paint the interior and glue on the cabin top. The lack of light with the top on really is something. I don't need to make a decision on the solar panel location for a while and initially I won't have a dodger  but may eventually. The durability of those flex ones are a bit doubtful to me after using one on my scamp camper. I bought the one Graham has and it seems pretty sturdy. 

 

Drew......the details in your boat are amazing. I can't wait to read of your adventures. That extra space in the cabin is nice. I plan on doing a lot of day sailing with my family where I may have as many as 5 aboard, but if I didn't your station wagon mod is sure to make cruising more comfortable. Nice job. 

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My goal has been to get some time working on the boat everyday, and today in snuck down and worked for an hour while the family was watching the Grinch. Mounted some of my electrical stuff.  Great day with the family. I hope you all had a great Christmas.

 

I decided to put the panel here:

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I kind of went a bit rogue in framing the cubby behind the cockpit opening (I thought though light weight, the stock setup looked a bit rough) and it gave me a good place to hide this thing. Mounted below it on the inside will be the Blue Seas Fuse panel. The quality of this thing is very high. It will be accessible with a couple of thumbscrews. You can see an extra 12V outlet and there will be another one on the other side. I plan on using 12V to USB adapters. I hate that many of the wired USB outlets don't have a shut-off. BTW, the solar charge controller has a voltmeter making viewing the battery state not that important.

 

The mounting location was chosen because I hated to take away the good seating in the cabin by having much on the aft bulkhead No 3. I originally wanted to keep the wires short, Graham's comment about being able to switch on the lights from the cockpit resonated. I will head to West Marine to get a bit of tinned 12 gauge wire to feed from the battery. Otherwise I have all the wire I need. The 50 Watt solar panel came with leads I swear I could jump start my car with. Do I really need wires that heavy? Seems overkill.

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Oversized wire reduces voltage drop -no harm as long as you can afford it.

 

I didn't see any mention of a battery isolation switch.  I'm using one with "A, B, A+B, OFF" options and two 42 pound 55 Amp hour AGM batteries.  Two little batteries were easier to lift and conceal.  There is also some piece of mind knowing I've got a battery held in reserve and using the off switch to ensure all loads are disconnected during storage.  

I also used circuit breaker blocks as a substitute for fuse blocks as it eliminates carrying a collection of spare fuses and the need to find them at the most inconvenient of times.  

My system with parallel batteries and circuit breaker block is "over engineered" but that was the fun part.  I've lasted 5 days without recharging, could of course do better if I added a solar charger.   

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  • 2 weeks later...

So this whole electrical thing is taking way longer than I thought, but I've learned some new stuff so there is that. I have it about 80% installed, which included a lot of drilling holes I wished I drilled earlier. For those following behind me, drill some holes through those bulkheads that support the bunks. It would have sure been easier before I glued the bunks down. Anyway it has come out really nice. Amazing how different everyone's install is. I'll have more pics soon.

 

The mast will sport a three wire 20/3 wire feeding the Argentina made light Chick has. My question for you all is what kind of connector from the loose wire off the foot of the mast to the a connection through the anchor locker bulkhead? I just don't see many options short of the type used for trailer connectors.  Suggestions?

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Steve,...

For my mast light I installed a "deck type" two-pin connector in Blk #1.  I can reach it from [standing in] the fwd hatch and can make / break the connection with one hand.  But I've had second thoughts on that and may [now] just pass the cable thru a grommet and use a trailer connector -- a two, three or four wire one.  You'd probably need two hands to connect / disconnect ... but that would probably be done on the ramp's parking lot.  And to make that easier, the connector could be positioned close to the mast rather than the bulkhead.  The trailer connectors have proven to standup well to adverse conditions -- being exposed to road dust, debri, salt, etc.

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On Summer Breeze, I was gonna use a connector, but really don't see a need for one. Only time it would be needed is if the mast was removed from the tabernacle. When that time comes, I'll figure one out. I like the trailer plug idea. As you can see, i ran mine out from the end of the mast. On hindsight (The best kind of sight.), It would have been better to go through the mast near the pivot point.

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