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Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Skeena"


Steve W

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Watching all the other builders progress while I'm at work has been frustrating and fun at the same time. 

 

 

Yeah, Steve, work and family can be a real nuisance, as far as boatbuilding is concerned.  But they do had their benefits, I guess.  Besides, many of us are either retired, or do this for a living.  Be patient and persistent, and you'll make progress.  The nice thing about this type of work is that you can work on it for a few hours, and glue up some parts.  Then, you need to let it cure.  This cure time gives you a chance to do those other things like have a relationship with people, household chores, earn a living, etc.  

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I cleaned the shop a bit after yesterday's fun. Here's the boat so far:

2016-02-28%25252021.05.15.jpg

 

And definitely don't tell Mama:

2016-02-28%25252020.58.40.jpg

BTW, for anyone else facing the dilemma of a clogged pump......after the crystallized epoxy is nice and viscous, put the pump on the gallon and let it soften up in the hot epoxy. Then pump a few squirts of the hot epoxy through it into a cup. Pour hot epoxy from cup into another gallon. No mess at all and pump is good as new.

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Steve,

Do yourself a favor and at least get you a hot plate. Big pots are cheap at thrift stores, too, but at least do your sneaking sneakily, even if you use the good pots...

And as for the boat, remember to enjoy the building part. It always takes longer than I think it will, and I've been pre-tired for 20 years now, so I generally have time. Then again, it's always over too soon, too.

That's a nice looking stripe of scmutz down your centerline.

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Thanks for the advice. That's MY canning pot. I'm not completely stupid! I am enjoying the build a lot. I was going to be this far along by about May last year....I'm going to sail my Sea Pearl this summer and see if I can sell it come fall, with a launch in the Spring of next year. I am going to bring my Spindrift 11N to the Messabout and pinch ideas for finishing my boat from the ones that are done, come home recharged and finish it next winter. I am not wishing my life away. It's just chipping away here and there. 

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I think I did it right. I just read the instructions again and I followed the directions (CS17.3 manual page 30) carefully. I cut two fillet tools. I squeegeed thickened goop down the center to math their profiles. It was a lot of goop. Neither is flat. After it has solidified sufficiently but wasn't quite cured, I laid the bi-axial cloth down and wet it out. and then I squeegeed the excess resin out with the trowels I had made to match the profile shapes. Re-reading the directions leads me to believe we are good. The center is now rigid. I think Jay added a keel. Are you planning to?

 

I do have a question. I went to cut out a piece to place below the water ballast tank as you did. I like that approach. But upon measuring I don't think I will have enough cloth to do the hull. I have a piece of 4 ounce glass left over from a previous project. Do you think this would suffice as a barrier?  My though is yes, but I'm no expert.

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Good. Just wanted to be sure. I did add a 1 inch deep keel full length. I have a 3/4" ss. hollow back strip full length also. Around the turn to the bow I switched to a 1/2 inch strip up to the bow eye.

Do you think this would suffice as a barrier?  Yep, just be sure ir is well "wet out".

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4 oz glass.......that sucked. Much harder to work with, but it's done. Tonight I will clean the shop real good, scrape any blemishes and if the epoxy is cured to hard test fit the module. I know you all seemed to hate all that taping, but the way my life is going, being able to work a little at a time will be a good place to be for right now.

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After finishing up a few details yesterday I set the module in. Because I taped the keel I have to remove some material off the bulkheads because it's still proud. If anyone has a technique they would like to share I'm all ears.

 

After I get it fit good I'm going to remove it and coat it real good including the bottoms of the panels. It was a fun day (I went Nordic skiing in the morning for a few hours. You southerners just keep yapping about your weather....I'll keep mine.)  I couldn't help laying a bunch of panels up and imagine it being done. Watching Graham and Alan as dots is fun too.

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It sounds to me like the issue is that the module cannot drop down as far as it should because of the tape and epoxy you added to the center line of the inside of the boat?  If it is feasible, I would shim the module to the hull such that it is located in the exact position it needs both for'n'aft and athwarthship.  Calculate how much it needs to move down.  Then set a compass (the circle drawing pencil kind) such that the distance between the pencil point and the pointer point are that distance apart.  Then scribe the line in the bottom to the curve you created tabbing the center line of the boat.  Then figure out how to remove the material that is in the way.  Rasp, block plane, hand saw, draw knife all come to mind as tools to use.

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Dave, that is exactl what I was thinking. I've found that an orbital sander on edge hooked to a dust collector make short work of the tiny bit to be removed. I think if I push the sides out a bit and put a dowel under at even distance from the center for each bulkhead that would work. I am feeling that if very much care isn't taken here it could come back to haunt later.

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I bet you find this isn't as exacting as all that because you are filetting over it, but I would always use all of my skills at trying to locate it well.  Any tool you feel you are in control of and can use safely is a good choice.  When a fit that will be exposed at the end is necessary I go through all the steps and then remove less than I scribed and then refit and prove I was right or wrong and take more off.  This takes longer, is more tedious, but has a built in safety control and keeps your imperfections on a smaller scale.  You might consider this as a means to feel better throughout the whole procedure.  Have fun, I'm glad I helped in some small way.

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Steve,

Here's a thought. You might want to review Alan's video on setting the centerboard trunk in place and his method for checking that the sides are plumb and not racked. I glued up my trunk (CS17 mk3) on my table saw top (machined surface) and know it was flat and true, but didn't check it again (with weights and clamps in place) before gluing the module down into the hull. I suspect (I'm still not certain about this) that I may have introduced some twist in the trunk when gluing in the module. 

 

Looking good!

Fred

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That's the way I build cases - on the bench. This is the only way you can insure it's plumb and square to the end posts, sides, etc.

post-304-0-53990700-1457803963_thumb.jpg

Here's the last one I did (not a B&B design) and I'm testing the hoisting  arrangement, fit of the board, etc. It's not completely assembled, just clamped to the end posts with a temporary "cap" used to hold the lanyard turning block. Once everything fits, it's all glued and screwed, then placed in the boat. Hard to see in the photo, but the bottom is profiled to the hull's rocker, there's just not much in this portion of the boat.

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A bit of progress. But first, for those who haven't looked at the way a Mark 3 is constructed, alignment of the Cboard trunk is already assured when you build the module.

 

Anyway, here's something for future builder. The bulkhead that allows acces to storage is kind of weak. When positioning the module I cracked both sides. Here is a pretty sturdy solution. I think the picture speaks for itself:

 

2016-03-08%2B07.24.54.jpg

 

Next, being a slow poke has some benefits. Pete posted some numbers for the width of the boat at certain stations. I had a few firring strips and put them across temporary gunnels many good things happened. My module is close to sitting perfect after a few adjustments with a plane. The only problem I'm having is that the front bulkhead is not fitting good. as shown along the lower left of this picture.

2016-03-13%2B19.47.23.jpg

 

I can easily press this gap shut with my hip. I'm thinking of putting a screw eye into the stringer on both sides and pulling is together with a piece of line. I can't think of anything else to try. Anybody?

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I made some progress last night. I have the module sitting pretty much right where it needs to be. One strange phenom is how pulling in the sides changes the shape of the bottom a bit. Not much, but enough to think that when I class in the bunk supports and tape the sides I'd sure want the cross pieces on. It will be fun working around them!

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Steve,

I wouldn't push the side(s) in to make it fit.  It will put a dimple in the side that will be easily seen.  Suggest making the bulkhead bigger to fill the gap or adjust its position.  Be careful.  As with almost everything on a boat -- doing something here often means something (maybe) unexpected happens somewhere else.

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