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Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Skeena"


Steve W

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Steve, hi, we have been "on the road" lately and missed some of the building action! I had a tube of dried up GE silicon ( the fancy almond color) that I took to the (power) band saw and slit the tube lengthwise. The plastic container peeled right off, then I glued it in the top of the CB trunk right before I glued the inboard trunk side on. Glued it up with some (not dried up) GE silicon. Gotta be careful with uncured silicone, really doesn't play well with epoxy! I have a pad on the trailer and the board lays on it's hammock when we travel. Can't imagine that thing jumping up enough to hit the top of the trunk in this case. But if it does....... I am ready! Only think with the board hammock, gotta raise it.......before you try to launch! I have labels everywhere to remind me!

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Jay, no worries. Pete was kind enough to send me a piece of what I think is close urethane foam that I glued in. I'm plodding away. The module is almost done. Tonight I finish gluing the final battens on the top and I think I have a few more pieces of glass on the tank and then the coating starts. I swear there is almost as much work in the module as the entire Spindrift 11N was (or maybe I just forgot the hard parts). My ailing father has need a lot of attention and that has limited my abilities. I like when Alan says in his videos "recoat before the last coat kicks off". That isn't really an otion the way things have been going. But I'm stubborn and we'll get it done!

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  • 4 weeks later...

The day after tomorrow it will be a year since I picked up my kit from B & B. And what a year it has been. My original goal was to be launching it this spring. Well, sometimes life gets in the way. I've worked on it all I could while running a business after losing a business partner, watching three teenagers grow, trying to be a good husband, playing in a band, and also still sailing. 
 
Watching all the other builders progress while I'm at work has been frustrating and fun at the same time. Anyway, I needed to get her 3D and yesterday, while my wife is out of town at a conference I figured was a good time to unfold her. I had my son hold my phone and record it, and after a bit of editing, here it is below.

 

A few things you will notice.

 

1. My ceiling in my basement is high, but not high enough, so I took the back legs off the cradle to get enough clearance.

2. It is in my basement. I made a cardboard silhouette and I'm positive it will come out on it's side as long as I leave off the tabernacle.

3. My daughters comment about her mom is not true. She cares I'm having fun.

4. I followed the manual and stitched the panels together first. It took up a lot of room in the shop. I'd have finished the module first if I had to do it all over again.

5. The module is done and ready to set in. Hopeully this weekend, although my son made it to the NYS Nordic Ski championship so I'm heading to Lake Placid to watch him at the end of the week.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6aLZgZjxjtc

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Going 3D is very satisfying as many members of the forum have said. Yours came together nicely, what a great team. Because our double garage ceiling was not high enough, we rolled it out onto the driveway. Entertained the neighbours no end. Even though ours is cut from plans, not pre-cut, it has gone together nicely - a testament to Graham's design. We are currently filleting and glassing all internal joins and chines. Photos soon.

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Drew, it is a great moment. I don't noticed, but I had to remove the legs off the back of the cradle to get clearance on mine.

 

I had expressed concern that you were gluing yours up without the module, but after unfolding mine, I think my worries were unfounded. When I built the Spindrift 11N, the panels were so floppy, it didn't want to keep a shape. This boat sitting in the cradle with a few bulkheads in place is a different animal. I'll stop giving advice until I've actually done it.

 

I do have a question for all of you. On page 34 of the current CS17.3 manual it presents two versions of glassing the keel joint. There is a the option of laying down the strip before and after the module is installed. What did you all do. Whoever has the picture of prelaying down a layer of glass on the whole bottom of the tank I like. 

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I layed the stripforst. Remember, it's not just a strip of glass; you first squeegee a "bed" of epoxy putty (we used to call this kind of putty "hucky-puck" back in my yacht building days.) to fill the "V", and THEN you lay your glass strip from the transom to the bow. I can't even imagine having to fuss around the module to do that.

 

post-1823-0-91859900-1455902830_thumb.jpg   post-1823-0-03773100-1455902832_thumb.jpg

 

post-1823-0-16127300-1455902833_thumb.jpg   post-1823-0-63084400-1455902834_thumb.jpg

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I glassed the hull bottom under the ballast tank. And then before inserting the module I applied two coats of epoxy to the entire interior of the hull. That then required that I sand every where the hull was to touch the module. Graham remarked that having the hull already coated with epoxy assured that when filleting the module in place all hull surfaces would be sealed -- otherwise, where the module meets the hull surface may block out epoxy from throughly wetting every spot on the hull. Another way to make sure the meeting edges of the module are well wetted is to put a bevel on the meeting edges so that he module's edges are "pointed" and the epoxy has an easier access to the end grain when doing the filleting.

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Does anyone know..........on the forward bulkhead #28 (anchor well panel), the forward horizontal cleat has a mark on the panel showing the anchor well floor support stringer . But I can’t seem to find anywhere that the dimension for the aft horizontal cleat goes to support the front of hatch panel 54. It might be somewhere, but the dimensions in the manual are only given for the 17. Anybody know this? It will be far easier if I glue it now than after I put the bulkhead in.

 

Thanks,

Steve

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Steve, 

 

I emailed you a response to your question about that aft cleat but thought i would post here to. I think Graham answered the question you asked and not the question you meant but I saw the context from your email. 

 
I believe the dimension is given on page 26 of the manual for that cleat. It shows 16 1/4" up from the bottom point to the top surface of the cleat. 
 
That being said, I think it will actually be easier to install the cleat after the bulkhead is in place. That is because the cleat will be in the way of fiber glassing the bulkhead to the side of the hull and with it out, the glass will go on easier (in one longer piece). After installing and glassing the bulkhead to the hull, I typically grind the ends of cleats like this to lay into the filleted and glassed corners. A mini grinder with a 36 grit sanding disk on it makes quick work of wood. I use one all the time. It's like having a wood eraser. 
 
I would use a level to locate the top surface of the cleat by leveling from the top of bulkhead 2 forward to bulkhead 1. A couple of marks and you'll have the top line of the cleat.
 
I typically use 2 drywall screws to dryfit and hold cleats in place before gluing. pilot hole drill the cleat then hold it up where you want it and just press the tip of the screw into the bulkhead and turn it in a few turn. Doesn't take much to hold the cleat but not go through the bulkhead. Then i take it off and leave the screw points just slightly sticking out of the backside while I apply epoxy, then I put it right back where it was using the screw points to help get it exactly where it was. 
 
Another technique is to use a hot glue gun. I've been using this more and more for very fast work. The procedure is, butter up the cleat with glue after it's been fitted, but leave two small bare wood spots on the cleat and on the bulkhead about 1/2" diameter. Then put 2 dabs of hot melt glue on those spots and press the cleat into place and hold. Presto, stuck in place, no screws to remove. Some have argued that this leaves a bare wood spot where the hot glue is but I'm not yet convinced there is a problem with this method. 
 
page%25252026.JPG
aft%252520cleat%252520on%252520forward%2
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All right, I am a knuckle head. I downloaded the newer manual and never printed it and updated it in my print copy. That was in the middle of some bad times last year. Sorry to waste your time.

 

But I'm glad I asked the question as I'll take your advice Alan and install the cleat later.

 

Last night I took the legs off my cradle and lowered it to the ground. I tack welded the keel joint and tonight I will remove the wires and pucky the entire joint. Tomorrow morning gets the tape if all goes well. It's funny how seeing the shape of a boat in the shop is very motivating. I'd like to be fitting in the module this Sunday just to get it off my workbench and get my shop back. I've decided to follow Chicks lead and glass the tank area to the stern Friday. I think I can get a lot of hours in this weekend.    

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I have the Fillets in the keel and I'm ready to put in the Bi-axial glass strip down . The filet is still a bit soft. My question is if I can wet the glass right through by just pouring resin on and squeegeeing it down the joint. If nobody tells me not to in the next hour, that is my plan. When I get home later I'll lay the fiberglass where the tank goes a bit oversize and when it's green trim it to the size of the module. Sound good?

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It's done. I did it my way, and it went well with little mess. I had cut  couple of plastic spatulas to match the fillet profiles in the manual, and those were key. I had my son mixing resin while I was in the boat on a couple of planks along the side of the keel. I have long arms so I was able to reach forward to the first bulkhead from my supported planks. BTW, I was worried about the temporary tack welds breaking so I laid on my back and tacked the outside too between the wires. There was never a hint of trouble as we worked, becasue a split with a half cured fillet would have been a disaster. . I have a grooved roller, so I poured resin along the edges and rolled it until the mat was fully saturated and then squeegeed the excess resin with my custom spatulas working from bow to stern.. There are a couple resin rich areas, but overall I'm pleased.

 

Unfortunately, things took a strange turn. I had the cloth cut for under the tank and I was going to put it down while the heavy mat was nice and wet, and lo and behold I'd used so much epoxy I needed to move to another gallon. Sure enough, crystallized again! Poor planning on my part. My shop is 59 degrees year round. I had put the resin on top of my furnace, but because it's geothermal it never really gets that warm and I forgot to check it before I needed it. So last night I warmed it up on the stove while my wife wasn't looking in a canning pot full of water. In the meantime, the partially cured fillet kicked of the epoxy in the glass and now it's too late to lay the glass down. Bummer. The bi-axial cloth is kind of rough, so I'll get a cabinet scraper and see it I can smooth it a bit and work on it later. But I will say she (no official name yet) is finally progressing. As Drew said, the lines are awesome.

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