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Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Skeena"


Steve W

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Steve, that looks good. The tabernacles are glassed around the tops (specifically around the pivot bolt) in order to back up the end of the wood there and strengthen the area around the pivot bolt. It also builds up the thickness on the inside to meet the diameter of the mast. Ideally the tabernacle only touches the mast at the pivot bolt and at the bottom so it doesn't scrape the inside walls when you raise and lower it and the glass at the top accomplishes this. Glassing the entire tabernacle isn't really necessary but I've started doing it for (as you say) protection of the wood. When I do it it usually takes at least 2 steps. Glass around the outside and over the end grain, Then the inside separately and overlapping the first round on the end-grain. 

 

I did the CS-15 tabernacle this way. I'm pretty sure I put a couple of extra little round patches on the inside to build it out to match the mast diameter. 

 

 

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Orienting the glass on the bias to get it to wrap those curves also helps a bit.

 

Here's another thought re the tabernacle. I've wanted, on occasion, to flex the main mast horizontally more than once when it's down and in it's crutch, or as I try to maneuver it around stuff. Thing is, at that distance from the tabernacle, a pound or two at the mizzen thwart exerts lots of pounds of twist on the walls of the tabernacle. I filleted the inside corners, but I'm not sure I was careful enough to wrap the glass across the corners and completely across the inside back wall, but  I kind of wish I had.

 

Fred

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I have proceeded to building the masts. On the mainmast, I'm running a wire up it to carry the juice to the mast head running/anchor light. I'm thinking of just stuffing some pool noodle stock cut in small pieces strategically up it to pinch the wire and help support it. Maybe every couple of feet. This would also prevent the wire from slapping internally.

 

Anybody have a better idea?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Steve, I drew the arc of the toerails to follow the cabin top curvature,  then drilled the holes oversized,  taped the holes up on the inside then filled them with epoxy (and didn’t get any inside the cabin!) then redrilled  and put the screws an bid washers up from inside the cabin with a little blob of buytal between.  No leaks but the black buytal keeps extruding out for a while with every  temperature change.   

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Steve;

 

I epoxied the toe rails in place.  I wasn't confident that screws alone would be strong enough because I didn't make the cleat under the toe rail thick enough to get good thread engagment (I'm referring to the cleat on the inside of the cabin connecting the cabin top to the cabin sides).

 

I screwed it down, removed the screws after the epoxy dried, then filled the holes.

 

If it helps I used a bevel of 13 degrees on the bottom of the toe rail.

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My first question would be:  "Do I have to be able to remove the toe rail?"

 

If NO: I would epoxy it down.  If a few screws would help snug it down during the process I would use SS and bury them under a bung later.

 

If YES:  I would varnish them firs including the bedded surface,  paint or what ever the cabin top,  and bed the rails in Sikaflex 291 and fasten from below.  Teak holds fasterners very well and Sika is an adhesive bedding that isn't impossible to undo later.  If I could, I would sink the screws and bung them using shellac as the adhesive so that I could remove them later. Or use bronze oval head screws and enjoy the patina.

 

Epoxy impregnated or bushinged holes are great.  I do think people over use them.  Today's bedding compounds are so good that I see no point in the epoxy unless something is going to be removed semi-often or more. Centerboard pivots, nesting bolt holes, etc., are where that process shines.

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FWIW, I decided it would be easier to paint with the rails off. So they will be removable. I like the suggestion of screwing them from the underside and I think after looking that shouldn't be super hard. And I think drill and fill and using smaller (#6) screws shouldn't be too hard. Thank you for the suggestions. 

 

PS. At Gore Mountain in the lower Adirondacks to watch my son Teddy compete in the NYS Nordic Ski Championship. Crazy conditions. 

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1 hour ago, Steve W said:

FWIW, I decided it would be easier to paint with the rails off. So they will be removable. I like the suggestion of screwing them from the underside and I think after looking that shouldn't be super hard. And I think drill and fill and using smaller (#6) screws shouldn't be too hard. Thank you for the suggestions. 

 

PS. At Gore Mountain in the lower Adirondacks to watch my son Teddy compete in the NYS Nordic Ski Championship. Crazy conditions. 

 

Good choice, this is what I should have done if I had planned better.  Hope your son fares well.

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Masts almost ready for sail track.

 

And cushions made! I have a friend who does upholstery and he put these cushions together for me. I made a filler that needs a cleat aft to hold the center cushion forward. On the forward end of the cushions is a velcro piece that holds the cushions together, hopefully preventing them from climbing the walls. They are 2" foam, and sure beat my thermarest on the floor of my Sea Pearl.  That centerpiece makes a nice cushion leaning against the forward bulkhead. 

1905156344_2019-03-0507_45_36.thumb.jpg.e0f30ba7b3b9cca45c7c97979db13bda.jpg

 

I decided to split the long cushions into two pieces. This should make handling them easier, and also give me 2 cushions that can be used as seat backs. To hold the aft part I made the major part of the cushions go under the deck a few inches. This should hold the aft part just fine. 

 

1534004383_2019-03-0507_45_06.thumb.jpg.a6fb35b867c005427b7cd7a2ba16bc45.jpg

 

Here is the cushion in seat back position:

1586738686_2019-03-0507_45_21.thumb.jpg.64475693cd3b628006e6dc6327aa638e.jpg

 

You will notice that I didn't put shelves along the aft bulkheads yet. I wanted to get the cushions made first. It turns out I'm glad I waited. Putting two inch foam props me up a bit. But having this cushion gets me to a higher part of the cabin giving my 6' height just enough headroom. Graham told me the newer 20's have a higher cabin top which is good. But I'll want to be aft and so my bulkhead shelving won't go full width. 

 

Congrats to Alan and Paul. I'd like to see how they fair in there CS20.3's NExt year I have a work commitment in March, but my goal is to enter the 2021 EC God willing and the creek don't rise!

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1 hour ago, Mark Baumgaertner said:

Your interior is looking very nice Steve! where did you find the step bracket? that looks like the perfect addition.

 

Thanks! These things are really a nice setup in the boat. They sell just the brackets and I made the step. I wanted to be able to fold up the step for seating room below.

 

I recessed the steps to fit two yeti Cups. Brackets are here:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Garelick-EEz-Polished-Aluminum-Brackets/dp/B00JDAVLRO/ref=pd_sbs_468_2/145-5802875-8410231?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B079TKMPTR&pd_rd_r=09c64848-411c-11e9-8f93-33fde218e404&pd_rd_w=wiUkr&pd_rd_wg=FwrnK&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=CH1QBWQ3BPJHWA6WY4BB&refRID=CH1QBWQ3BPJHWA6WY4BB&th=1

 

Click on the folding bracket tab. Currently $39.20. Really sturdy.

 

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