MickG Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 I am considering lenthening the mast on my CS 20 to increase headroom. Is it better to increase them at the top or the bottom. My present masts are alujminum.Would one make an aluminum "sleve" to fit inside the mast and the extension?/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Vacanti Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 A fellow who used to post regularly on this forum made this same modification to his CS20. Here is his web page where he describes his work: http://www.roguepaddler.com/cs20p.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickG Posted December 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Thanks, Mike. I do have his web site and have read all his postings. However, I don't understand what he means by a "splint" to hold the extension to the original mast section. I don"t have his email address or I would ask him. Regards, Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter HK Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 I think what is meant is the same thing you mean when you said sleeve. I'd extend the top where there is no concern about strength as there may be with an extension at the bottom. If I could get a piece of al tube that fitted inside the current piece I'd use that...if not I'd use the same size tube and cut it longitudinally and compress it a bit to fit inside the topmast and the piece of tube you want to extend the mast with and rivet it all in place. Cheers Peter HK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 My aluminum tubes fell a little short (2 to 3') at the top of my masts, and I bought a poplar dowel which was the same O.D. (2") as the top aluminum tube. I reduced the last 12 inches OD diamter of the poplar dowel so it fit in the I.D. of the aluminum tube. It seemed to work out fine, and Graham had given his blessing to using that much poplar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterP Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Lennie, if you change your mind about the extension look at my Princess Sharpie 28 -post 232. I had to add to my mast and it worked out very well. PeterP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickG Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Thanks to all that replied. All of the ideas that were presented seem workable. What I am now thinking of doing is to get some 2" OD tubing and butt it up to the present top of the mast(2). Then, obtain another piece of tubing (pipe?) with an OD slightly too large to go inside the 2" mast and the addition. I would then machine that piece to an OD that would be a "snug" fit inside the mast and it's extension. I would either epoxy or pop rivite the pieces togeather (or both) Any comments???? Thanks again to all. Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterP Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 You missed it. Read Peter HK post. The idea is to get the same OD tube of required length plus about 6 in. Cut off the six and run it through the saw lengthwise. Depending on your saw blade you may have to run it through a couple of times to get the kerf you need to be able to work the sleeve inside your mast tube. Look at the picture in my post. When you slide the extension on everything will be lined up perfect. Leave a 1/16 in gap between the pieces so when the guy welds it the lot fuses together. Sice aluminium loses strength when heated it is good to know you will be doubling up the material in the joint thereby maintaing almost all of original strength. If your welder is a decent fellow he'll charge you 10 -15 bucks for the work since you will have done most of it and if you paint the mast no one will ever know. PeterP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 Thanks Peter. Glad your method worked out, and mine seemed to as well. Since that time I painted it, stripped it, painted it and on and on so won't plan to revisit this piece anytime soon. It may turn out different when in the water so I will keep your post in mind. They seem to work out when still in the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 When I glance at this post, I think I'm seeing two different things. Peter and Lennie wound up with masts that were too short to begin with, so extended them. Mick seems to want to extend his to raise the sails higher to get more headroom? I'd be careful about doing that. The vertical location of the sails, and the heeling forces and leverage they impose on the boat, are part of a larger calculation related to the stability of the boat. If you do this, just be aware of what might happen. In light air, elevating your sails might help. In heavy air, you may pay a penalty. Provided you know where your sails are supposed to be, it may be possible to raise and lower them on the mast, but in doing so, you will also mess with the geometry of the sprit and snotter location, which will affect the shape and performance of the sails. On the other hand, that may work to your advantage. Something to ponder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickG Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Howard: The first CS 20 that I had had a mizzen sail that the clue almost reached the deck when sheeted in on a close haul tack. When it was built, (2007) there seemed to be some confusion as to the proper length of the masts. To the best of my recollection, the mizzen mast was slightly less than 20ft. I have acquired another one (boat), but have not been able to step the masts due to weather conditions (Buffalo NY) And I don't know for sure the lengths of the masts.. Boat is stored and mostly inaccessable untill Spring. I do understand the effect of raising the masts and sails higher then neccessary. I wanted to have a plan ready ito incase I needed to lengthen the masts, come Spring. Thank you for your suggestions and advice. If any one has any more thoughts, they would be most welcome. Regards, Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Garland Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 My advice would be to wait till spring and rig it up on land to check the geometry...with sprits and proper length rigs you should have no headroom problems...it sounds like your old boat had a short mizzen mast. If you do need to lengthen the mast you will need a splice piece inside the tube at the join...you can do as outlined by others above....I would recommend a splice piece of 18"-24" min. length in the lower alum. sections. If your mast is short, adding length down low saves messing around with the track and other fittings on the mast up high. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 Mick- Phil is somebody that really knows his stuff, and is an owner of Hall Spars: http://www.hallspars.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickG Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Hi: Again, thanks to all that answered my mast lengthening questions. This past weekend, we had a break in the weather and I got a chance to measure the masts. The main is 22 ft and the mizzen is 21 ft, 5 in, so I believe that I will be alright with the masts at their present length. Thanks again. Regards, Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.