PAR Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 TACO is the usual supplier for these "half oval" strips, both hollow backed or solid. Price is about $5 a foot, if you buy 12' lengths and about $7 a foot for shorter (typically 6') lengths for hollow back. These hollow back strips dent very easily and are much harder to bed than solid back stock. Of course, solid back stock is a lot more costly, so expect to pay about $18 a foot for short lengths and about $15 per foot for 12' lengths. This stuff is usually 304 stainless, though 316 is available for a little more. You'll also get much better pricing if you deal direct with suppliers, rather then resellers (like Jamestown Distributing). The suppliers don't care about a marine label for their 304 half oval stock and just charge for the machining and material weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Chick- I bought mine from Hamilton and went with the solid ss half oval. Paul- Settled, thanks. I am going to take your advice and move on and get the boat done. Each time I have not taken your advice frankly I have regretted it. Appreciate your willingness to be direct, and helpful. The tension in my shoulders has gone away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted September 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Lennie. I'll check-it-out. The reason for the hollow back is to fit the radious of the stem between the bow eye and around to where the added on keel begins. From there back, the flat back 1/2 ' will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jknight611 Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Just a thought, does the collective wisdom have any experience with a carburendum epoxy slurry on the keel? Very tuff, hydrodynamic, not expensive. Jay Southcoast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Are you referring to carborundum powder (silicon carbide), as an additive to epoxy? Wow, this is an interesting approach and I'll bet it roughs up what ever you drag the bottom across. Yes, it would be tough, but wouldn't help hydrodynamics at all. Maybe you're thinking about carbon (graphite powder) added to the goo, which will make the bottom seem more slippery and toughen it up slightly, depending on volume per unit of resin. If this is the case, I wouldn't bother, unless you need another tenth of a knot more speed in the races and if you're losing by a tenth of a knot, it could be gained back with some better skippering 99% of the time, without the need for a graphite bottom job. Lennie, I'm not gospel, though I have a few boats under my belt. The collective wisdom and experiences here will guide you along just fine, I'm just offering some pointers every once and a while. Over the years I've seen lots of projects bogged down over all sorts of stuff, so a kick in the butt every so often helps keep them moving. For some it's the act of building that's rewarding, others the sailing. I personally think you can enjoy both, besides, you don't think this is going to be your last build do you . . . Even if it ends up being so, you'll still be working on it after it's launched, right up until you draw your last. It's the way of the beast that inhabits your soul and this is the 12 step program to help you through it . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Hi- My name is Lennie. I am addicted to boat building. Yes I I'll build another boat Paul. Thanks Paul- I needed that kicking of the butt- keep them coming, and by the way my lady, confidante, and partner thanks you very much! She has been through two major painting cycles with me and is happy to see me avoid a strip and paint process.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jknight611 Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Hi Paul, the carborundum powder in the epoxy slury is hard as heck ( don't plan on any sanding!) and it is pretty slick, by virtue of the epoxy it is suspended in. I used it on the keel of our nesting 2Paws we built several years ago, I think we drug it about as much as not in our Southern skinny water! It has held up pretty good. I have used graphite powder to make hatch slides, most definitely not the same stuff! Been following along for several months and looking forward to meeting some of you guys at the MessAbout! I appreciate all the collective knowledge on this site. We hope to pick up out CS20 MKIII kit at the MessAbout, so here come more questions and ponderings! Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Dunsworth Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 Paint, Paint, Paint, I truly believe there is no real boat paint that is not two part. I just got to see my Belhaven three weeks ago. The single part yellow was getting in real rough shape, but the two part white on the decks, cabin top and cockpit still looked new after nearly five years from repainting. I did not strip down to the epoxy but had good adhesion of the first single part on the original paint. When I repainted I thought that the only way to go to a two part was to go all the way back to the epoxy. So I repainted the yellow in single part. I then talked to the Epifance tec dept and they told me I could use their conversion primer over the one part then use two part paint. Thats what I did with the white. Their conversion primer was something like $25 quart, one or two coats is all you need on a boat thats already been painted and faired. I wasted money and time going with one part the first time, never again, epoxy primer then two part for me! Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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