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MikeLTour61

Marissa 18 Eco Build ~ PHOTOS~

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I think the flip will go really easily. I guess i would add that the "hard part" to me looks like getting from picture #2 to picture #3. If the whole boat started out further to the left OR the lifting point was farther to the right (same difference) then she won't have to slide across the floor on edge to get to picture #3. Hope that makes any sense. 

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Thanks for your input Dale and Alan.  The bow and stern eyes arrived yesterday.  I always seem to go overboard (pun!) when buying hardware. I got 1/2"-13 threads on these babies.  They could lift the Titanic!  I'll be using them for the flip. 

 

As for the positioning of the boat, I agree with you Alan.  I mounted the lifting eyes in the ceiling with a different sequence in mind.  From what people are saying, I think I'll be able to slide the boat over on some plywood or if necessary, make a dolly.  My drawing isn't really to scale, so there's that too.  We'll just see how it goes.  I will post lots of pics for sure.

 

CJB, I remember asking someone and I think it was Graham (the designer) about using something else for coring.  I was told that the strength in this type of construction comes mainly from the plywood and that the fiberglass sheathing is more for protection than strength.   I'm sure the glass adds some strength but it's not anywhere near enough to use foam or balsa for core.  One of the things that attracted me to building this type of boat is the light weight and strength of wood construction.  The plans recommend a max of 60 HP but it seems like most people are quite happy with 40.  Any fiberglass boat (solid or cored) of similar design would need over 100 hp to obtain satisfactory performance.  This is because plywood is much stronger, per pound, than fiberglass (or steel for that matter). 

 

If this boat is built to specifications, then all the wood will be encapsulated in epoxy.  The wood will never get wet and rot or insects will not find anything to attack.  This should be true of any modern plywood boat design.  The great thing about B&B boats is they look great and life is to short to own an ugly boat!

 

Good luck,

Mike

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FLIPPED!  I flipped it this morning.  I didn't set out to do it today... just wanted to get it off the horses I built it on.  One thing led to another and next thing you know, it was right side up!

 

 

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Hi all.

 

It's been a couple of weeks since my last update but I have been hard at work and I think I made some pretty good progress.   I'm done glassing the bilge (tabbing and bottom).  Graham suggested I glass the bottom if I decided to go with a 50 hp engine so I went ahead and did it.  Actually, I just bought some 8" 10 oz. tape and used two pieces per bay in the bilge.  That gave me three inches up the stringers and 2 inches overlap in most cases.  Where it didn't, I just added cloth as necessary.

 

As you can see, the coaming is done.  I'm presently working on getting the transom and motor well finished. 

 

While I'm writing (and you're reading) I wondered what should be used to seal the chase pipe (PVC) to the aft locker sole as shown in the last picture.  I've experimented with thickened epoxy & 3M 5200 after roughing up the PVC with 80-grit.  Neither of these methods worked very well although the 5200 seemed better than the epoxy.  Lotus said he used something from Sikkens but couldn't recall what product it actually was.  I think it needs to be solvent-based to bond with the PVC.  I'll also use it where the chase goes through the frames.  I hate rattles!!!

 

Thanks!!

 

Mike

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Not sure what you mean by seal the chase.  I used epoxy for attaching my chase, after roughing up the PVC with 60 grit sandpaper wherever it was to be glued in.  Where the chase came through the aft floor I used thickened epoxy and a plywood collar around it.  The chase inside is not sealed in any way on my boat.

Hope this helps.

 

dale

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Hi Mike, nice and clean job !.

 

I have 3 suggestions to make if you don't mind .

 

Put an other separate 25 mm pipe for the fuel line.

 

Make that console narrower, in my opinion its enormous for the boat width. I made mine 700mm (28inches)wide and got space for all the instruments needed and more floor area to manurer around 

 

The 3rd is to add a partition in the bilge area . This partition will attach from the middle of the  transom to the next frame and from the keel to the floor. Than when the floor is in place continue this partition from the floor to the bottom of the motor well. This will take all the force generated by the motor.

I dont have a closeup photo of this section but can be noticed in photos1and 2

 

The stuff I used for the pipe is   Sikaflex-11FC+ 

 

Hope this will help you.

 

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Thanks again all for your input. 

 

Lotus, I noticed your smaller chase in previous pictures and wondered what it was for.  I thought maybe for the depth finder wire as they can act up when placed close to other wiring.  It makes sense to separate the fuel from the electrical.  Don't want any stray fuel meeting any stray electrons! 

 

It doesn't look like we can get Sikaflex-11FC+ in the US.  We can get Sikaflex-11FC.  I don't know what the '+' is but I'm sure it's the thing I need :)

 

I think I'll end up doing a large cabosil fillet around the penetrations.  A couple people have done it that way and have had success.  I drilled dimples into the pipe where the fillett will be which should help hold things in place.

 

I may feel more comfortable making modifications to my next build but I think I'll default to Graham's console design for this one.  I'm having some problems with ill-fitting parts from the kit and Graham is working to fix. 

 

I like the idea of the extra brace for the motor well.  I thought of installing a knee but that line of thinking was carried over from my wooden rowboat days when growing up.  I don't know if it's necessary for a 40 or 50 hp engine.  The other thing is I'm putting a 6" round Armstrong deck plate cover in the center of the well.  The reason for that is one of my bilge pumps will be located in the aft void.  The other pump is between frame 3 and bhd 2.  I'm ex-Navy and unless I have two methods to de-water I get nervous.  I am planning on using the remaining biaxial tape to reinforce all the connections on the transom and motorwell.  I think that should do it.

 

Thanks again everyone!!

 

Mike

 

 

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Looks like you know what you're doing Mike ! 

 

A small suggestion is that its better to use two 45 deg. bent instead of a 90 deg. L bow. It may be difficult to pass the control cables through as their last 6 or 8 inches is not flexible !. I used one 45 deg at the aft and two 45 deg in front and still was not easy 

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Thanks guys.  I guess I won't be able to return the 90 :(  but I will go get two 45s for the turn.  Don't want to run into problems someone has already solved!

 

I have no pictures so far this week except one.  My new helper has been keeping me quite busy retrieving things and going for walks.

 

I have had a chance to order all the wire and electrical components with the exception of GPS and VHF.  I also ordered the Baystar hydraulic steering ($339!) and all the other deck hardware.  Oh, and I have a EZ-Loader trailer on order as of yesterday.  I priced out the 40hp Yamaha motor with all the rigging, harnesses, gauges, controls and prop at $8400.  A little steep but hey, you can't take it with you.

 

When I started this project I figured it would be two years to complete.  Now, I'm thinking I'll be boating by spring or early summer!  Less than a year.  Next boat will need to be a bigger project.  I always need a project in the shop. 

 

Has anyone ever heard of the Olga 28 design by Mark Smaalders.  I know this is a B&B forum but I really like the classic lines of the Olga:  http://www.smaalders.net/yacht_design/OLGA%2028.html. If it was a 25 or 26 footer, I'd be even more interested.

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Mike,

After reading the posts above again.  I am thinking that I was actually able to get a curved 90 degree pipe.  I think it had a gradual curve to it.  Check your supply store to see if they have it.  I went back to my photos trying to find one of the pipe but apparently I did not photograph it. Sorry.

 

dale

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I believe your Olga 28 design by Mark Smaalders was a fiberglass design if I remember right.  I love the lines.  A casual neighbor of mine actually had one and I lusted for it.  I probably would have bought it from him at the time if I knew he would sell it.  Some friend he turned out to be, he sold it without even asking me if I wanted to buy it.

 

Here is another one I love.  It is a strip built design by Tony Dias called Tautog.

 

dale

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