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Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

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Looks great John!! Looking forward to seeing more pics as you go. I am a few steps behind you as I build my OB26.  Nice to have  some inspiration!

Ken

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Looks gorgeous.  Yeah, heavier glass does drink up the resin. And when I grow up, I'm gonna use peel-ply.  Why didn't I….?  Aw, never mind.

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Sorry, somehow i"m lacking on the side shot view.

 

Since my last post, I've done all fillet joints and glassing below the waterline. Slow going and not very fun but a good hurdle to clear.

 

 

 

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I need some advice, though.

 

I did not anticipate that the distance between the aft bulkhead and the transom would be so large, 31' in the centerline.

my plan is to cut out the above deck portion of the bulkhead and move it aft so that it would be easy to reach or climb over the transom while fishing/swimming, etc.

I would probably widen it in the centerline to accommodate a fishbox or livewell, too.

 

any thoughts or suggestion are appreciated.

thanks

 

 

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Are you still going with a bracket mounted engine?  There's a lot of ways to finish that up depending on your use, expectations and aesthetics.  I like plenty of toe space at the transom so when leaning against the bolster i'm not angled any more overboard than I have to be, so I wouldn't put a bulkhead at the transom.  Others want storage and mechanical systems space back there, so they determine the machinery and layout then build to house it with room for maintenance.

 

Here's a couple of cockpits transoms laid out the way I prefer them .  Even though these are much larger boats they still incorporate functional design that can be adapted.   These all have tuna doors rather than storage.67_Custom_Mark_Willis_Cockpit_2.thumb.jpg.2bdcd65f1a0571e815e4561e248627a2.jpg

 

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I was thinking of something  like your second photo. I do want room for mechanical and bilge access and some storage. I was thinking of moving the bulkhead back to perhaps 12-14" from the transom so that I could have storage space on either side of the livewell/fishbox. Also, I might raise this off of the deck 4-6" to allow for the toe space that you mentioned. The plan is for a 200 yamaha on an armstrong bracket/swim platform. The door is appealing but I would be afraid of unacceptably weakening the transom.

 

I love the teak. I will do teak deck and combing boards if costs allow. I really want it to look like a scaled down version of the classic big sportfisher

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Nice work John!  I know the feeling of being a bit burned out on fiberglassing!  Are you planning to tape the bulkheads and transom above the bottom stringer height?

Ken

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Yes, I will glass the inside of the transom and bulkheads and tape the joints. The next step for me is figuring out the redesign of the transom layout. I still have to go back and clean up limber holes, sand and put on another coat of epoxy on the entire bilge. Yuk!

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John- we are in exactly the same place.  I have just a little bit of glass work left and had to do something fun. Decided to build the cabin and go back to the epoxy/Glass another day. Why do today what you can put off...

 

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Jay,

 

I'm in Brickyard Plantation building in my garage. Tight fit. Glassing the sole in more sensible and it may come to that.Teak is so beautiful though. Stupid expensive!

 

Kennneee,

 

Beautiful Work!  I have to take a break from the glass busy work and do something that looks a bit more like progress. Is that the outer banks and do you have a thread going? where's the link?

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Still chugging along.

 

The transom issue is still unresolved but the plan is to move it aft with a centerline fishbox and access to the bilge. More on that later.

 

Since my last post, the fuel tanks have been installed, conduits for fuel, water, electric and hydraulic lines installed and the bilge compartments foamed.

The decking (ply + glass) is next with the final decking planned as teak.

 

For the fuel tank installation, support frames were constructed as shown and neoprene rubber + 5200 used to prevent chafing. These tanks must expand so they cannot be "foamed in".

 

Instead there are clamps which secure the tanks and 1" blocks of neoprene are installed around the edges of the tank to prevent any movement.

 

 

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Next came the foaming part of the project. Graham had recommended not pouring foam but rather gluing blocks of foam in each compartment so as to allow for condensation and drainage through he limber holes. I made a compromise as shown. I cut sheets of 1" 2# foam and glued them (epoxy) so that there is a space below the foam for bilge drainage. The perimeter of the inset foam sheet was sealed with heavy duty duct tape to make a water tight seal so that liquid foam would not make it past the foam sheet when poured. 2# density foam was then poured and once set the tops cut off flush with stringers and bulkheads.

 

I made a mock-up of this method first. The liquid foam adheres so tenaciously to the wood, sheet foam and duct tape that there is no worry about it coming apart.

 

Next the ply flooring goes in.

 

 

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