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building core 17 in Ga


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I am attempting to build a core 17 in Carrollton, Ga .west of Atlanta.  I do not have much for instructions or information is there any one in the area that has built one.  Carla and Graham have been a lot of help but without some pic and specific instrutions it is pretty hard to understand some of it like putting in keel batten and sizes of fillets.  I have no idea of the hull number if there is one I bought the kit last summer
Thanks
Floyd McDermitt

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Floyd-

 

As Paul said, welcome to the forum and the CS17. You are in for an adventure and yes you should have received a hull # with your plans. In addition, you should have had assembly instructions that take you thru about half the boat. There is a good explanation of the keel batten detail as part of the package and I believe it is on the plans, not the instructions. I never would have advanced too far myself without having first taken a stitch -and -glue class at the woodenboat school, and I would highly recommend it or another class, either thru Graham or elsewhere. However there are also two good books on stitch -and -glue which explain the fillet size etc, both available thru woodenboat store. One by Devlin, and the other by Kulczycki. I recommend the latter.

good luck and keep us informed.

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You can't do any better than Alan's videos on building the CS 15, which of course is so similar to the 17.  They are extremely instructive.  I just finished watching them again, and both the keel batten (which I realized I had not understood) and fillets are dealt with in a very clear way, as is so much else.  He's up to part 6.  Spend an hour with those and you'll learn volumes.  You'll also gain a lot of confidence that you can do it, because it seems a lot simpler seeing it done than reading about it, sometimes.

 

I don't know how to paste a link in here, but just google "core sound 15 hull assembly part 1" and you'll be all set. 

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I see where CLC has empty calk gun tube you can load with thickened epoxy has any one used these and how do you load them and how well do they work.  I was thinking it might be a way to do some of the filleting in the front  where space is limited and hard to get to keel batten since it takes a lot. 

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Most home builders would be hard pressed to have enough fore thought and planning to get efficient use from these cartridge gun applications. The cartridge is loaded from behind, then a cap inserted, before placing it in the gun. You can do relatively small amount, but you have to work pretty quickly with the epoxy massed in the tube, which is where most DYI folks have difficulty. The keel batten is a good place for one, though I can't think of any other location or assembly that could also benefit from it.

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Another option and one I learned is to use a pastry bag (available at many on line chef supply stores or maybe even Bed Bath and Beyond). Fill it about a third to half way, cut a hole in the end to allow air to escape and goo to come out, and twist the top of the bag and lower and lower the twist, pushing goo out at a pretty steady pace and diameter. Takes a couple attempts but works like a champ. The books say whatever diameter the plywood is the fillet should be as deep and two times wider. After the goo/ wood flour mix is on there you smooth out with a fillet tool. The mix, dryness, consistency and on and on is all important.

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thank you al  when I tried to do some fillets I made a mess I ended up having it every where but where I wanted it just small drops or globs here and there it was thick enouph but I hit the sides or places and it stuck  some times I misse43d scraping it off  I have watched the video and learned from it.  there are places where the front bulkhead, temp center bulkhead and back does not just fit tight lice most a 1/8 inch gap if that much is that a problem  When I tried a fillet I used the mixing stick from hobby lobby about 3/4 wide I put the epox  in the slit then used  the stick both vert. and horz. along the grove to form it and wipe extra off  then went back with a rag.  after it dryed some I took  a orbit sander and went over the ebge and any extra came of as little small bears like salt real white how far wrong am I my next steps will be do the inside chime edge and take out  wires and redo it and  front bulkheads with center frame in.   I am building this in a plastic cover greenhouse and gets real hot by 10 AM until about 5:30 in the eve even with shade cloth .  Need to have it where I can move it out by fall when we start our geranium crop for next spring
Thanks for any comments

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Sounds like your on the right track to me. 1/8" gaps are not uncommon around the sides and bottom of the forward bulkhead due to variations in bending from humidity and plywood thickness. 

 

"little small bears like salt" I think you mean small beads. In that case you could be sanding it while still a bit green or not quite fully cured. As long as it's not sticking to your sandpaper then it should be fine. Just watch out for head buildup which will make it stick and ruin a sanding disk. Also, green epoxy dust is hazardous to your health. Make sure your wearing a mask even if your using a vacuum. I'd wear gloves too if I were sanding not fully cured. 

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watch out on the bottom near the transom.  Be sure that these parts are pulled in tight.  It might take stouter wire or wire doubled up to bring these sections in.  I wound up with a reverse bow in the bottom about 2' from the transom because i was not diligent enough in getting this part really well aligned.  Once it is taped you are committed.  Graham suggested a support to push the bottom outwards prior to taping to correct the bow.  Too late now.  But, almost fair after several sanding and filling sessions.  

 

20140702_113003.jpg

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It is a bit expensive, but there is a solution for using a gun and not worrying about cure time at all.  I have tried it and like it a lot, except for the cost.

 

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=137044&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=product_ad&gclid=CjkKEQjw5-OdBRDW3ceD9fL0r4QBEiQAW7htXR1HOl0FMUezs1Oc9a60rv3wDgU_QXHV2ixaBOKM6Dzw_wcB

 

 

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GREAT  I WILL GIVE YOU A CALL BEFORE I GLUE ANY THING I STARTED THIS BOAT AS A PROJECT TO STAY BUSY BETWEEN JOBS  I DID NO RESEARCH EXCEPT A COUPLE ARTICALS IN WOODEN BOAT  mYDAD WAS A FISHERMAN AND ALWAYS HAD A BOAT HE WAS WORKING ON BUT AS A KID I WAS NOT INTWERESTED I ANY THING LIKE THAT WISH  I HAD PAID ATTENTION TO SOME OF THE THINGS HE TRYED TO TEACH ME  I WAS RAIZED ON THE PANAMA CANAL BACK IN THE 40-50S WAS A GREAT PLACE TO LIVE THEN

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Moon-

went on your blog- exciting EC!

is there a CS17 build blog that I don't seem to have found? I seem to struggle finding stuff in blogs....like with Alan's .

please let me know. You've got me thinking about a future EC-

 

lennie

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  • 2 weeks later...

If I did not make some fillets large enough along the side and bottom but have fiber glassed them.  I put three strips of glass ( one down the middle and one on either side .  I half lapped them.)  Can I sand the edges and the tape to rouph it up and them add a larger fillet.  The original fillet was made with thickened epox and them the glass was added about 6 hours latter.  Some paces the tape looks different some tiomes it does not wet well regardless of how much unthickened epox you put on it.  it has some on and in it but not a lot. 
Not much on computers > do not know how to put a photo on here I got some pic in camera but do know how to do it.
Thanks 

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Floyd-

i am by no means an expert and I am sure other better informed folks will weigh in, but after a year of this stuff, a diploma :) and many fillets later, here is my take: 

In the future, the right shaped and sized fillet tool gets you the right sized fillet... A must. Buy some cnc cut fillet sticks. It will save you all kinds of trouble moving forward.

for the current situation, wash current epoxy with soap and water and a rag , sand aggressively  and work thru air bubbles if any, then lay a new fillet. First, paint on unthickened epoxy, let it get tacky as you add thickener to the mix, put down a new fillet, and then while still wet, paint it with unthickened epoxy, lay down fiberglass tape on top, and paint that with unthickened epoxy. When you are "painting" on unthickened epoxy it acts as lubricant and doesn't move stuff around. Usually, as with glassing the hull, you don't paint the epoxy on, but rather work it in with a squeegee but in case of tape, it works out.

good luck, and now I invite others to correct me :)

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  • 1 month later...

I AM GOING TO TRY AND TURN THE HULL OVER SOME TIME THIS WEEK IS THERE ANY TRICKS OR SIMPLE WAY OF DOING IT OTHER THAN BRUT STRENGTH.  I AM HOPPING TO HAVE A COUPLE OF OTHER FELLOWS HELP ME   I AM AFRAID TO JUST ROLL IT OUT  OF THE CRADLE ON TO SOME B OARDS THAT ARE THE SAME HEIGHTH AS THE CRADEL  THE BOW IKS IN A DEEP CRADEL THE STERN IN A SHALLOW ONE .  I HAVE NOT TRIED TO MOVE IT PER SAY.  I MIGHT BE ABLE TO HANG A PULLEY FROM THE TOP OF THE GREENHOUSE AND PUT CHOKERS AROUND IT WITH  A 2X4 SPREEDER BAR BUT I DO NOT KNOW ABOUT RIGGING IT
I HAVE THE INSIDE BASICLY DONE EXCEPT FOT CENTER BOARD TRUCK AND SEATS WHICH I FIGURED ON DOING THIS WEEK BEFORE TURNING
ANY HELP APPRECIATED

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Floyd,  Not sure how much of the interior you have done (added weight), but my son and I flipped my CS17 with no assistance.  We put the building cradle next to the lawn and then used some long 2X6 to slide the boats port rail to the lawn.  We then turned it over on it's rail, then lifted it back on the cradle.  Went so fast, there were no photos.  I guess the one thing that I may have done differently would be to place a cross brace at the widest point of the rail to take the majority of the strain so as to prevent the rail from cracking.  It really did not flex or even hint at being a problem, but we went very slowly.  

 

I move the boat in and out of the garage on a series of pvc pipes.  

 

Good luck. 

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