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CS17 mk3 hull #3 "Carlita"


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The rope trick is worth the effort and pays for itself, the first time you bash it on a trailer support, because the tackle let it bounce below the keel, during a rough loading or maybe gunk holing over some oyster beds. There are other techniques, but the rope trick seems the easiest for the novice builder to get good results on.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Chick, 

I am pretty sure that he is planning on a toe rail. I remember also discussing with Graham and Jay that the cabin top would be better served if it were entirely non skidded because you DO have to go up there to attach the spirt and hank on the sail. Basically for rigging purposes. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here is my latest rendering of Carlita. I cannot help turning her into a micro cruiser.

 

I have entered her in the next EC solo so I am going to try a wind vane to share the helm duties.

 

It is a bit more complicated than usual as it has to kick up for beach launching. To keep the mizzen sheet from tearing the vane off the stern, I added a bumkin to move the sheet behind the vane. The bumkin also supports the vane.

 

If it works like I hope, I think that I will name it Randy so that he will be on board in spirit, he shared the helm in our last three EC's

 

I am thinking of adding 4' of B&B sail track on each coaming top aft so that I can have  number of movable fixed cars for spinninaker sheets, tiller tamer, fenders spring lines etc.

 

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Here are a few of progress pictures.

 

I built in an icebox at the forward end of the cockpit to starboard. It drains into the cockpit. You can see the hatch framing. 

 

A picture of the port cockpit coaming. 

 

And the third is the ballast tank fill. It fills from the centerboard trunk and is accessible through the hatch. It will be glassed into the trunk and the inboard end takes a standard transom drain plug. I used 3/4" PVC which has an ID of about 7/8", the drain plug needs a 1" hole. I found a broom handle with the right diameter and heated the PVC with a heat gun until it was soft and pushed it over the handle until it cooled. 

 

There will be a large Anderson bailer in the bottom for water removal. 

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Very cool Graham - after your recent comments about the hatch and dodger design, your drawing is pretty much what I'd come up with in my head - at least as far as the dodger goes. I'm excited about it. I'm thinking separate fwd hatch from companion way hatch, are you?  

 

The fill tube is an interesting idea -- what is the objective? Is it so that it'll fill underway?

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Fred,

 

Yes there will be two hatches. I will be into that soon and will take pictures and there will be drawings. My main reason for the two hatch layout is that I can make a nice light very watertight system. I just have to duck when I go forward.

 

The PVC pipe  was run into the CB trunk to save a little parasitic drag. It is hard to have a removable plug in the bottom and have it as smooth as if it was not there.

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The Mk-3 series is intended to be managed from the "trench" or hatches in the raised deck. You should not need to go on deck under normal sailing circumstances. The anchor is handled from the forward end of the trench, or forward hatch.

 

I would think that for the times you would need to get to the main to tie in a reef or something, you would lower the dodger.

 

Both Graham and I have chosen the separate hatches rather than the trench. The dodger will have something to attach to across the center of the deck with this arrangement. Not sure how it would work with a trench. I'm looking forward to what "Mr. Designer" has to say.

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post-127-0-64964200-1448164418_thumb.jpgpost-127-0-56915700-1448164437_thumb.jpgpost-127-0-87775900-1448164557_thumb.jpgHere are some new pics. The starboard seat is being glued down. Clamps were used wherever they could fit, then lots of weights and drywall screws for some extra force. The mirror was used to check for full glue squeeze out. 

 

The butt blocks are fitted for the aft cockpit seat and the beam fitted.

 

The third pic shows the aft cockpit seat deck beam ready to be glued. The ends are supported by 1/4" ply U brackets.

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HI Graham,

 

In Alan's CS15 videos, he makes the entire seat top & thwarts "deck" as a big unit and glues it all in at once.  Here, you seem to be going at it piece by piece.  Are there reasons to use one method or the other?  In my small work space, piece-by-piece would sure be less awkward, but are there pitfalls to watch out for?

 

Bob

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Bob,

 

It just goes to show that there is no one right way to do things.

 

On a straight forward build like in Alan's video, it is best to glue all of the parts together on a flat surface and put it down as one piece. It can have it's problems though, if you get it out of square you might have a big piece that will not fit. Also as you mentioned, if space is limited or if the glue-up might kick off in hot weather before you can get it in place or if you do not have enough clamps. It is usually quicker to put it down in one piece. If you do put in large panels like the cockpit as mentioned, down in one piece, it is necessary to pre-fit all of the parts and have a way to make sure that when you flip it over on the bench that you glue all of the parts together that they are properly aligned.

 

I do not always do things in the most efficient way. While I am building Carlita for myself, I am still prototyping. I often build both sides differently to try and find the best way to do it. In Carlita's cockpit I was building an icebox on the starboard side which was time consuming and needed multiple steps, but I wanted to try out the best way to build the cockpit coaming for the plans. I built the port side coaming and made the cockpit hatch larger than originally designed because I found that I could not fit a small 4stroke outboard through the old one. It was a tight squeeze but the hatch just clears the coaming. Alan and I debated the assembly of the coaming with all of the parts at hand so that we could try different ideas, I think that it worked as we found a better way to do it. 

 

The cockpit is more complex than on the CS15. I wanted the aft deck and bridge deck in place (so that I can board the boat easily during building) but not have it glued in. Being removable, I can rig the rudder and the bumkin without climbing into the boat or needing an assistant since I can see and reach both sides of the transom. The same for the bridge deck, I want to rig the centerboard uphaul and glue in the ballast tank top before I glue the bridge deck in.

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