CS17 mk3 hull #3 "Carlita"

[Pete McCrary]

Here are two photos that just barely show the setup for drop board stowage on "Tattoo."  I thought I had better pixs, but these were the only ones that I could find.

 

At the top-left of the first photo you can see the stowed boards.  The top board goes in first with its drip edge and latch-hasp on the lower side -- leaving a flat surface (on the upper side) for the lower board to slide onto.  You can see the starboard-side batten attached to the underside of the carlin that supports the roof.  You can also see the small (about 1.4") lip of the batten that provides the small shelf on which support the boards.

 

 

In the second photo the stowed boards can just barely seen.  However, the photo shows that the boards can be easily reached (for stowage or retrieval) from the cockpit without going into the cabin.

 

 

Occasionally I see commentary that for safety reasons, drop boards should always be in place (with hatch closed) while underway, at least in rough weather.  QUESTION: Wouldn't that be important mainly in the case where the "knock-down" waterline is above or near the lower side of a horizontal hatch?  When Graham did his self-righting demonstration, would it have made any difference if the hatch and boards were in place or not?  Of course, if there's a 180 degree roll, all must be closed up tight.  But that is very unlikely for these boats with the masts providing so much righting moment.  

[Designer]

Pete,

 

Straight Lexan with a wood cleat at the joint was my first idea but I felt that it would be flimsy. I also like to be able to drop in different boards like the mosquito screen and like the idea of having a 1/2" wide slot to take different boards. Having the luxury of a CNC machine makes quick work of making those parts a perfect fit.

[Don Silsbe]

Thanks for the peek inside Tatoo.  I like the way you've stowed your extra propane bottle.  It all looks so neat and tidy.  I can't wait to see your new boat at this year's mess-about.  I hope you're coming.

[Pete McCrary]

Graham,

They were flimsy and exposed to damage if dropped. Once one fell off the boat onto the driveway. Big chip! Also, Lexan gets quite hot when exposed to sunlight -- so much so that it expanded to the point that (until cooled) they wouldn't fit in the stowage shelf. For my "Chessie" I'd frame the Lexan as you have. QUESTION: If the thickness were kept to a minimum, do you think both boards could be stacked under the cabin roof just forward of the aft hatch, like it was done on "Tattoo"? Would it significantly reduce the cabin head-room?

[Chick Ludwig]

What Don said...Lots of cool stuff inside that cabin. I like to stow my drop boards in a rack in a seat locker, or against the side of the hull under the bridge deck. Your solution gives good access from either the cabin, or the cockpit. I'll "take a look at it" on the Breeze, but there is minimal headroom already.

[Designer]

Here is what I did to the underside of the cockpit hatches. They are too large for the 6mm top to be able to support a large person to be able to walk on them.

 

I put a 1" high beam x 3/4" wide and tapered the ends to 3/4" high. The ends of the beam have to be cut short so as to not interfere with the inside coaming which makes it a beam without fixed ends. To prevents the ends of the beam from failing at the glue joints under a high load, such as a big footed crew stomping on the hatch, I added a 3/8" ply end which is 3/4" high at the beam and 6" long. The ply ends were glued and screwed into the beam ends and then glued to the underside of the hatch. I had a 220 pounder walk on the hatch which showed very little deflection. 

 

Another detail that I like to do is to set the hatch sides about 3/16" in from the edge of the hatch top. This allows me to have an epoxy fillet on both sides of the hatch sides rather than just a fillet on the inside. Another advantage is that if you ever need to trim the sides of the hatch to prevent it from binding in the deck cutout, you are not planing the hatch sides away.

[Chick Ludwig]

NOWWWW you tell us....

[meester]

So on my CS15, with 4mm ply am I in danger of breaking things by standing on the seat tops or hatch lids?  I'm 235 lbs on a "low gravity day."   The seat tops are not yet on, so this is a good time for reinforcements.   

 

Bob

 

Edit: Thanks to Alan for getting me back on track.   I'm using 1/4" ply, of course, not 4mm.

Edited February 20, 2016 by meester

[Designer]

Chick,

 

I thought that you all of this stuff.

 

Meester,

 

Your cockpit and cockpit hatches should be 6 mm ply not 4 mm. The CS15 cockpit hatches are a lot smaller than the CS17 mk3 cockpit hatches and we have been able to get by without reinforcing. If you are going to to put the hatches under higher loads, feel free to add a beam.

[Tom Lathrop]

Graham,

 

I thought that you to add a necessary word.

 

Tom

[Designer]

Sorry Tom and Chick, I should read this stuff before I hit post, I left out "knew".

 

I should be at the shop but it is 27 degrees outside. I will go there in about an hour.

 

I put some plastic over a ridgepole to make a cockpit tent, put in a heater and it as almost pleasant inside. I have the outside of the boat finished except for the coaming and mizzen mast tube.

 

As rowing is important to me I have wacked a hunk out a side of the boat to lower the oarlocks. 

 

Yesterdays pictures show the trim around the companionway and the lowered oarlock lowering. You can see the cockpit greenhouse.

[frowley]

Wow Graham. Each post is just so much cool stuff and interesting ideas. Now I don't regret hanging back. I'm really excited by all of it - the c'way hatch and coaming design, the portlights, the self-steering rig, etc, etc. It's really cool stuff. I'd often thought about cutting a hole through the sheer to lower the oars, but would have lacked the self-confidence to do it. Just coated my hatch covers, but it's not too late to add the reinforcement. I can't wait to see your boat in the water!

 

Fred

[Designer]

Carlita sails.

 

In keeping with tradition. I got to have a half hour test sail last night. All I could tell in that time was that she did not leak, she maneuvered well and tacked like she was supposed to.

 

The wind vane worked , the only critical thing learned was that during a little burst of about 6 knots, the kick up for beaching auxiliary rudder kicked up. I have added a quick release clam cleat which should do the job.

[Action Tiger]

Congrats. Safe racing!

[alexscott]

Graham,

 

Please let us know what you found out about the Carlita in the EC 2016

[Designer]

https://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id=ZIoDDKKzXog

 

The link is of the video that I took of the wind vane steering the boat on the afternoon of the first day of the Everglades challenge. 

 

As you can see the conditions were perfect here, it freshened later with speeds even higher. Fast down wind running conditions are the hardest to get a vane to work. I am happy to report that it worked very well. I later found that the boat steered very well upwind with the tiller lashed on center and let the boat steer herself. The last third of the race was upwind so I never used the vane after check point 2.

[Joe Anderson]

I can not seem to make the youtube link work.

 

Is anyone else having difficulty?

[Designer]

Joe,

 

I checked the link and it seems to be correct. You can go to U tube and type in Self steering EC2016 and it should come up.

[Joe Anderson]

Self Steering EC2016 got me to the video. Fascinating.  I know when running before the wind the waves are trying to push the boat around, yet  Carlita seems to be holding a pretty steady course.  It looks like it would be a great Mess About demonstration.

 

Congratulations on your EC run. We would love to hear more about it when you have time. Got any more videos?

[Mike Vacanti]

Thanks for posting the video, the quality is excellent. Here is the correct link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIoDDKKzXog