Jump to content

CS17 mk3 hull #3 "Carlita"


Designer

Recommended Posts

Good progress Graham. I've come to a "freezing stop" on Summer Breeze. Too cold to work. I think you'll like the anchor sprit. I wouldn't have it any other way on my boats.

 

rexaco, I wish I'd seen the Five Oceans hatch before I bought mine. Good price and I like the elliptical shape.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I have been working on my CS17 for a few weeks in a row after a long unplanned break. The framing is finished and it was a good excuse to drive down to Bayboro and pick up the new masts. This was my second trip.  The first was to pick up the kit. I was able to spent 2 hrs with Graham. The shop is unheated and he had on his carhartt overalls and jacket. He is a wealth of information and freely shares it. I always learn something like in answer to my statement about bubbles in the epoxy he says "use a heat gun and they will disappear".  He was happy to give me the "Carlita" tour. The hull is almost the same as the CS17. He has won a lot of races in the CS17 and he is also a cruising Sailor.  So Carlita is going to be a fast cruising boat. It looked so well built that it inspired me to tighten up my work, slow down and spend a little extra time to do a good job. Graham talked about a lot of  his designs and his experience sailing them. We looked at Alan's UFC canoe which at this point weighs just 40 lbs.  Both he and Alan like to win. How great is that to have these 2 guys designing the boats we are building. I mean.. if you are out on the water and there is another sail boat don't you put out your best sailing effort.  Anyway I'm sure Carlita is going to be the boat to beat in Florida.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

well 1st impression is pretty good, the inner lip is a tad over 1.5'' so through my application (3/8'' ply) I"ll have to remove quite a fair amount (1'') for a flush fit.

The seal looks to be good, wouldn't say water tight but certainly splash proof. Only time will tell.

A good amount of sealant will be needed to install as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hobie Mirage Drive

 

Has anyone tried a Hobie Mirage Drive as an auxiliary for the Everglades Challenge? It looks like it has much more power than oars- see

and it can be mounted in a wooden boat- see http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/projects/curious/index.htm
 

If you can find a place for it in "Carlita", it might be a big advantage over oars for water over a foot or so deep, and you could have a flush plug for the well when it is not in use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just thought that I should update.

 

The cold weather set us back a bit but the weather has been great this week. When it got too cold to epoxy I switched to metal work. You know that it is cold when you go to dip a piece of hot metal in the water to cool and the water was hard. I left a hot piece on top of the ice, it slowly melted a hole but when I picked it later it was stuck.

 

Most of the epoxy work is done now except for coating the outside of everything above the hull. The centerboard and rudder are glassed or coated. The cockpit sole is about ready to go in, I have 5 coats of epoxy on the underside. You can see in the picture that I added another port for the compartment aft of the ballast tank.

 

Tom came by for a visit and asked me if I was going to put some glass across the top of the aft center part of the tabernacle. He said that Southern Skimmer developed a vertical crack which I glassed. I cannot remember the incident but after I thought about I am convinced that he is right. After seeing it happen on Travis's P22 I had been recommending that builders add a bit of glass across the vertical grain. Don't freak at the carbon that I used. I was intending to use glass but I had a piece of carbon that was too small to keep so I used it.

 

The masts sections are joined. 

 

I ended up choosing an Aqua Signal LED tricolor masthead light. It was a lot cheaper than Jay's, which got a lot of bad reviews for reliability. 

 

Our light was a bit more bulky but had a cute way to quickly remove the light from the mast. After examining the construction, we stripped all that away and go rid of the bulk, I probably destroyed the warranty, I did test that it worked first. I opted to not get the anchor light option as it was a fair bit more money and bulkier. Jay's light was definitely cleverer. Another positive thing that I found after pulling it apart is that the three LED clusters were all potted in epoxy as well as circuit board. It should be reliable. The last positive is that there is about an inch of separation between the red and green light which allows my Wind indicator to be mounted on center without compromising the light. It is very bright.

post-127-0-41899600-1454560604_thumb.jpg

post-127-0-86002700-1454560631_thumb.jpg

post-127-0-15156900-1454560655_thumb.jpg

post-127-0-07145100-1454560676_thumb.jpg

post-127-0-22070000-1454560694_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have installed a coaming for the dodger. The first picture shows the mylar printout. It is on used mylar so there are some extraneous lines, the main lines show the bulkhead, deck edge, hatch rail and the coaming curve. There is an angled line showing the 53 degree slope of the coaming at the hatch rail near the middle clamp. The curve was marked with an awl onto the deck.

 

The coaming is made from 6mm ply. I marked the shape on to the ply with the awl as I did on the deck. I am happy to report that the shape fitted perfectly, what you see is right off the bandsaw without any trimming. I made the first one with the grain running vertically, thinking that it would bend easier but it was too brittle and broke. Experimenting with bending the broken half, it broke again. Using the broken pieces as a template. I cut the next one with the grain lengthwise, it worked fine. I did use the heat gun on the wider section to give it some pre-bend. The second picture shows it glued in place. The third and forth pictures show the finished coaming at different angles.

post-127-0-16360800-1455109357_thumb.jpg

post-127-0-57776600-1455109388_thumb.jpg

post-127-0-22026300-1455109414_thumb.jpg

post-127-0-74938700-1455109434_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a rendering on how I am going to do my washboards. There are two boards made of 12mm ply and will have 6mm tinted Lexan rabbeted in the back side with a 6mm ply trim ring on the inside. It will match the ports. By mosquito season I will make a screened version in one piece.

 

There is a drip groove on the top edge and the joint between the two halves will be rabbeted. I prefer washboards to doors but that is just a personal preference.

post-127-0-84299100-1455341516_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice, Graham.

On the CLC Pocketship similar boards were made of simply Lexan cut to fit with a wooden drip edge bedded on the bottom of the top board. My solution for stowage was to glue 1/4" battens under the forward end of the "carlins" that supported the roof around the companionway's outboard edges. The battens provided a "lip" or narrow shelf upon which the outboard edges of the boards could be supported. The head-room was reduced only by the 1/4" thickness of the battens. The separation of the Carlins was identical to the companionway opening -- so the fit was perfect. On my "Tattoo" the width of the carlins was about 1.5", which was plenty for the stacked 1/4" boards (1/2" total width). That even left space (above the boards) to place a map, magazine, notebook, etc. They could be easily stowed or retrieved from the cockpit.

Maybe the same arrangement could work on a CS Mk3 under the roof between the two hatches. Later, on another post, I'll show the setup on "Tattoo."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.