CapecodJohn Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 I have a 2 x 6 x 8' piece of clear redwood to make a a laminated coaming. what other types of wood can i match up with it? what have you used? What should the final dimension be for it ? how many layers how tall and how thick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 1 1/2"- 1 3/4" high is the range most of us use. Thickness will depend on the wood used. Redwood is not nearly as strong as what most of us use, so thicker would be called for. But depending on what you laminate with you can make up for strength. Normally gluing different woods together could be looking for trouble due to expansion and contraction, but with thin laminations like the combing it doesn't really become an issue. You can use just about anything. Redwood is very soft as well, so if used on the outer or inner layers it may be easily dinged. If a hardwood is used there that issue dissolves. I would mix it with a light colored hard wood for a strong, ding resistant and nice contrasting result. Maple? Oak? Holly? Poplar heartwood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapecodJohn Posted March 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 1 1/2"- 1 3/4" high is the range most of us use. Thickness will depend on the wood used. Redwood is not nearly as strong as what most of us use, so thicker would be called for. But depending on what you laminate with you can make up for strength. Normally gluing different woods together could be looking for trouble due to expansion and contraction, but with thin laminations like the combing it doesn't really become an issue. You can use just about anything. Redwood is very soft as well, so if used on the outer or inner layers it may be easily dinged. If a hardwood is used there that issue dissolves. I would mix it with a light colored hard wood for a strong, ding resistant and nice contrasting result. Maple? Oak? Holly? Poplar heartwood? Great that was helpful, just what I wanted to hear, thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 If you use the contrasting hardwood you could go for a strong half inch thick not including the lip. I like the contrasting laminated combings forum members have made, I will have to do that next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bcone1381 Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 For what it's worth, I made my coaming out of oak. It seems too heavy (but very sturdy) and have thought about redoing it...maybe out of cedar. What lumber is conducive to bending around the front of the coaming mold? I knew oak was good. Now I see others have used cedar. I spent a lot of time handling the oak before it went onto the coaming mold. Buying, Re-sawing, soaking, steaming, pre-bending, then wrapping it up with glue, finally sanding down to final dimensions and finishing. I would have been ahead to by purchasing basket weaving material, wrapping it and glueing it solid around the mold. Better yet, http://www.itascawoodproducts.com/shop.php?product=ash&cart_id=139472570414074 Take your pick....ash, basswood, oak, white cedar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 I used Mahogany, came out really nice looking. I didn't steam or soak and used a heat gun but if I were to do another coaming I would build the steamer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT kayak Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 I am also about to make a coaming. What is the best thickness to wrap around the form and how many times? Is twice around with 3/32" or 1/8" enough and a 3/8" X 3/8" lip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 I am also about to make a coaming. What is the best thickness to wrap around the form and how many times?Is twice around with 3/32" or 1/8" enough and a 3/8" X 3/8" lip? The lip sounds fine, but I would use 4 wraps for the main part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 Bcone, that basket stock isn't a bad idea at all. Bookmarked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 found some "Soft Maple" locally, is that still considered a hardwood, and How "soft" is it, just wondering if it is as easily dinged as cedar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Soft maple is not really that soft. Compared to hard maple it is slightly softer. Rule of thumb is if you can make an indent with your thumb nail by pressing into the wood it is a "soft" wood, otherwise it's a hard wood. I consider soft maple to be a hard wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Rule of thumb is if you can make an indent with your thumb nail by pressing into the wood it is a "soft" wood, otherwise it's a hard wood. I consider soft maple to be a hard wood. Actually, the rule is: 1. If all the leaves are usually broad and fall off once a year it is a hardwood. 2. If the leaves (or needles) fall off in a rotation, looking like they never fall off it is a softwood. It was observed that for the most part deciduous trees are harder than evergreens. So this became the differentiation. Not a very scientific differentiation, but that is how the terms hardwood and softwood were arrived at. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardwood http://www.diffen.com/difference/Hardwood_vs_Softwood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Rule of thumb is if you can make an indent with your thumb nail by pressing into the wood it is a "soft" wood, otherwise it's a hard wood. I consider soft maple to be a hard wood. Actually, the rule is: 1. If all the leaves are usually broad and fall off once a year it is a hardwood. 2. If the leaves (or needles) fall off in a rotation, looking like they never fall off it is a softwood. It was observed that for the most part deciduous trees are harder than evergreens. So this became the differentiation. Not a very scientific differentiation, but that is how the terms hardwood and softwood were arrived at. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardwood http://www.diffen.com/difference/Hardwood_vs_Softwood Very cool. I didn't know that. I always stick with the hardwoods for furniture and stuff unless a customer specifically wants a soft wood. Or it's a boat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msaxton Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I picked up some douglas fir with a nice tight grain that i was going to be using for the coaming, but am finding out it is almost as soft as the cedar, might have to quit being cheap and just go for the oak! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HBREW Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 Has anyone ever made a combing out of laminated ash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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