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Transducer mounting


Pickman

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I'm thinking of installing my small fish/depth finder in my newest skin boat. (started lofting the FreeB 14, Thanks to P.Douglass). I have two questions.

 

1.Will the transducer work mounted inside the hull? ex. Glued with Lexel. I think it will. I don't want to remove the transducer from my other boat unless I know it should.

 

2. Are short transducer to display cables available? I need 18" not 18' . Lowrance spec. 

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NO,NO, I meant, Will Lexel stick to the flexible fabric for any amount of time? I was sure it would shoot through the skin but i wanted to mount it with out using the 'set it in a puddle of water' trick.

Sorry for the confusion. I know that regular silicon didn't last very long, at least on my plastic boat. As for the cable lenght question, It appears that i'll need to make my own.  Thanks.

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Thanks. I will stick it with Lexel and wait a few weeks. I do know that transducers do not like any air trapped in the mounting. The screen will show black lines and gibberish with even the smallest amount of glue failure. That is how I learned that silicone only works for ......well until it don't no more.

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Silicone is pure evil.  Not only does if fail, but once it does nothing sticks to the surfaces you contaminated with it.  This means no other adhesive sealant will work where the silicone has been, and no paint or varnish will stick there either.  I use polysuflides for things that may need removal later and do not need serious adhesion.  I use weaker polyurethanes like Sikaflex where adhesion matters, but removal may be necessary down the road.  I only use 3M 5200 when I know the bond will never need to be broken, as you will surely do lots of damage trying.

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Heat will break the tenacious 3M-5200 bond, as will a well applied razor. I even have a well worn, very fine tooth hacksaw blade, I use just for this purpose. I've made a wooden handle for it and I heat it with a propane torch, then saw through the bead of goo. Once the part is removed, it can be sanded (slow speed), scraped and razored clean.

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There are lots of techniques to use on 5200 Paul, and I have used the ones you mention.  I have a teak handle on my hacksaw blade  ;) I hand riveted a scrap of teak shaped into a handle to a reciprocating saw blade with copper nails and roves.  But I still hate the stuff almost as much as silicone.  It just isn't necessary.  About all I would use if for is to seal the joint of the ballast keel to the stub.

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My Sea Skiff plansk were assembled with Thiokol which I understand was the predecessor to 5200. Just cut the first joint at the transom using a scraper blade on the Bosch vibrating cutter. Worked but it stinks. I will use it when I replace the planks but I am not looking forward to it.

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