Pickman Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I'm thinking of installing my small fish/depth finder in my newest skin boat. (started lofting the FreeB 14, Thanks to P.Douglass). I have two questions. 1.Will the transducer work mounted inside the hull? ex. Glued with Lexel. I think it will. I don't want to remove the transducer from my other boat unless I know it should. 2. Are short transducer to display cables available? I need 18" not 18' . Lowrance spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Transducers will work though wood and fiberglass so I would think fabric would be nothing to them. Have not tried it, but it would floor me if it wouldn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 A transducer wouldn't know a fabric hull was even there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pickman Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 NO,NO, I meant, Will Lexel stick to the flexible fabric for any amount of time? I was sure it would shoot through the skin but i wanted to mount it with out using the 'set it in a puddle of water' trick. Sorry for the confusion. I know that regular silicon didn't last very long, at least on my plastic boat. As for the cable lenght question, It appears that i'll need to make my own. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 No idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JReed Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 If not you could look at making a mount that could attach to a frame holding the transducer against the skin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Yes, it will stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pickman Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Thanks. I will stick it with Lexel and wait a few weeks. I do know that transducers do not like any air trapped in the mounting. The screen will show black lines and gibberish with even the smallest amount of glue failure. That is how I learned that silicone only works for ......well until it don't no more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Silicone is pure evil. Not only does if fail, but once it does nothing sticks to the surfaces you contaminated with it. This means no other adhesive sealant will work where the silicone has been, and no paint or varnish will stick there either. I use polysuflides for things that may need removal later and do not need serious adhesion. I use weaker polyurethanes like Sikaflex where adhesion matters, but removal may be necessary down the road. I only use 3M 5200 when I know the bond will never need to be broken, as you will surely do lots of damage trying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pickman Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Anyone have any experience with the HawkEye D11S Micro-Display Digital Depth Sounder? I like the size of the display but, I have never heard of the brand and wonder if it is worth $50 eBay dollars. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HawkEye-D11S-Micro-Display-Digital-Depth-Sounder-/151245527323 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Heat will break the tenacious 3M-5200 bond, as will a well applied razor. I even have a well worn, very fine tooth hacksaw blade, I use just for this purpose. I've made a wooden handle for it and I heat it with a propane torch, then saw through the bead of goo. Once the part is removed, it can be sanded (slow speed), scraped and razored clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 There are lots of techniques to use on 5200 Paul, and I have used the ones you mention. I have a teak handle on my hacksaw blade I hand riveted a scrap of teak shaped into a handle to a reciprocating saw blade with copper nails and roves. But I still hate the stuff almost as much as silicone. It just isn't necessary. About all I would use if for is to seal the joint of the ballast keel to the stub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 My Sea Skiff plansk were assembled with Thiokol which I understand was the predecessor to 5200. Just cut the first joint at the transom using a scraper blade on the Bosch vibrating cutter. Worked but it stinks. I will use it when I replace the planks but I am not looking forward to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 There is a big difference between using 5200 as a sealant or adhesive sealant and using it as a pure adhesive. I just feel that if you are going to have to take it apart, then there are better choices than 5200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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