Plywood parts with CNC router

[powderpark]

Greetings,

 

I've just ordered the book Fuselage Frame Boats: A guide to building skin kayaks and canoes from Amazon.com

Later if I can be sure that I may  bring the required ingredients together, I will also order some plans.

 

What I want to ask did anyone used CNC router to cut the plywood parts of a kayak? In some YouTube videos, I saw that  a jigsaw and a band-saw is being used to cut these.

 

If I can get the plans as DFX files (at least the plywood 'ribs') maybe I can use a CNC router because I have a friend that offers this service. I^ve cut several parts that I^ve designed in CAD application.

 

Do you think this is a good idea and if yes are digital plans available for sale?

 

All the best,

 

Powderpark

[Kudzu]

Digital plans are not available.

 

CNC is possible but it can't cut the square inside corners so you have to cut those by hand anyway. I have looked at the having frames cut but I haven't seen any real advantage to it.

[powderpark]

Thanks for your reply.

 

My motivation for cutting parts with CNC router is first, it is very cheap  (around $ 30 / hour) and secondly my workshop's  limitations for cutting plywood parts. But I'm aware, eventually I will need to solve this problem as well.

 

For 90 degree internal angle cuts, the diameter of the cutting bit  is mostly 4 mm and it will cause a 2 mm radius during the turn. A solution to  this might be adding  a  4 mm hole to the  CAD file to remove this excess section via drilling.

 

Still waiting my copy of the book arrive from Amazon.

 

Regards,

 

Powderpark

[powderpark]

Hi again,

 

I have started reviewing my copy of Fuselage Frame Boats and noticed and error:

 

On Page 62, POCO BARTA FRAME OFFSETS (in millimeters)

 

FRAME 5'6" (1676.4 mm)  should be corrected as following:

 

    X      |      Y       | Z

1676.4 | 0            | 0.25

            | 80.9625 | 38.1

            | 269.875 | 180.975

            | 0            | 206.375

 

 

Powderpark

[GaryMinor]

Since it is suggested that the corners of the stringers are rounded, I don't see the need of square inside corners on the frames.

 

I did learn that it's worth the effort to cut as near to the line as possible. Sanding to shape is a lot more effort. Sanding to a somewhat near shape may be acceptable.

 

Gary

[Kudzu]

Very few people will round the corners of all four sides of a stinger. Most will only do the outside edges and then they just sand a slight radius. Nowhere near what the size that would come off a CNC machine.

 

When I first started building I ran mine through the shaper to radius the corners but quickly realized it was a lot of work and that I could use a block or wood with some coarse sandpaper and break the corners into a small radius. I think the larger radius looks nice but I am probably the only one that notices. So I no longer do that.

[spyderxxx]

Jeff and Gary

 

Jeff and I had an email exchange a while ago about a cnc build. I haven't started yet but I have a few observations.

 

First if you are going to pay someone to cut out the frames you are wasting your money. You might as well pay Jeff .

But if you have your own machine it would be a good experience. I plan to make one this year. Now someone like Jeff who makes

many frames it would be ideal. Also the time saved overall in the build would be quite small.

 

Ed

[Hirilonde]

Very few people will round the corners of all four sides of a stinger.

I am one of them.  Once I set up the router table the time isn't really that much, so I just keep going.

[Kudzu]

I don't do enough volume but I can see a CNC being great for production runs. If I had one large enough to hold a sheet of plywood, I could start it and walked off. Freeing me to do something else. But as i said, I don't have enough volume to ever pay for one not to mention the huge amount of space it would take up.

[spyderxxx]

Jeff

 

Space for the router is a real issue. You would need a cut area of 5x5 so it would be at least 6x6. Then there is the room required around it.

I find it difficult to walk away when it is cutting. I like to watch. I do get some sanding done

 

Ed.

[northernMike]

Have you guys considered a CNC Water Jet? 

 

You can get some pretty sharp corners with them.

[Tippe]

On ‎26‎.‎01‎.‎2014 at 10:59 PM, powderpark said:

Hi again,

 

I have started reviewing my copy of Fuselage Frame Boats and noticed and error:

 

On Page 62, POCO BARTA FRAME OFFSETS (in millimeters)

 

FRAME 5'6" (1676.4 mm)  should be corrected as following:

 

    X      |      Y       | Z

1676.4 | 0            | 0.25

            | 80.9625 | 38.1

            | 269.875 | 180.975

            | 0            | 206.375

 

 

Powderpark

Hi,

 

I am new here so some words about me:

I am Christof from Northern Germany. The boat virus has found me about 10 years ago. I had no experience and began with the kings disciple a stripped canadier but it results in a 116 pound boat. In the next years i build the free kayak from guillemot and than two with "freeship" self designed kajaks 

 

Now I just start a SoF-project and my favoured object is the POCO BARTA.

Yesterday I tried to draw the plan, and I found the problem powderpark has found some years ago. But before I have entered the official correction side and hadn't found this hint.

So I have made me some effort to recalculate the METRIC dimensions and discover that also powderparks remark is not finally right.

 

Under condition the feet/inches numbers on page 60 are right this should be correct FRAME 5' 6'':

 

    X      |      Y       | Z

1676.4 | 0            | 6.35

            | 207.9     | 38.1

            | 269.875 | 180.975

            | 0            | 206.375

 

I think this should be added in the official corretions.