Dnjost Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 great progress! wish I had a greenhouse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 It sure is great progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Update: - Mast kit came in this week from B&B. Next Saturday, I plan to take the pieces to my local fab shop and have them welded together. To fill the gap in the loose fitting upper section, we will roll a sleeve out of sheet aluminum. This replaces the fiberglass/epoxy bushings that would melt during the powder coating process. - After months of stop and go work on the rudder assembly, things are finally starting to come together. Sorry, no pics at the moment. - The hull is the fairing process. Tomorrow we will do a final skim coat with "special purple", a mix of phenolic microspheres and silica from the good folks at Duckworks. Then epoxy sealing coat(s) and paint! - Also made the cutout and other preparations for the bailer. I couldn't find (m)any pics on the internet for this so here is my contribution: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Nice work. Do yourself a favor and round over the inside edges of the hole, cut in the bottom for the Anderson bailer. You may also want to consider waxing the bailer body ( I use regular 'ol Turtle Wax, several coast), where it sticks up through the planking, temporarily bolting it in place and pouring slightly thickened epoxy around it, so the end grain is covered and sealed. The wax will let you remove the bailer and bed it properly with an adhesive sealant, after the epoxy is cured and you'll have a precisely form fitting hole for it, that also protects the planking. Keep up the good work and post some more building shots . . . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 That sounds like a great idea. I did bevel the bottom inside edge to make clearance for the radius of the bailer. I guess that would minimize the thickness of the sealant when we install for good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 Took the mast kit to the fab shop this morning for assembly. Since we are powder coating which is a process that uses high heat, we are TIG welding the joints instead of using epoxy that would likely melt. As planned, they rolled me some aluminum sleeves to fill the gap in the upper joint. This fit worked out better than I expected. I had some concern that if there was any opportunity for the joint to rock under load that the weld might crack since it was not fastened anywhere else. Because of this, we decided to drill 4 holes spaced 90 degrees apart about an inch above the hidden end of the smaller tube. The holes were used to plug weld the outer tube (and sleeve for the upper joint) to the inside tube. We did this for both joints on both masts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Fairing complete...or maybe we are just tired enough of it to say its complete. At some point you have to stop sanding and just start painting. We are at that point. She's not perfect, but I am really happy with how it's turning out. Put second sealing epoxy coat on this morning. Should have some color by next weekend. Close up of our keel protector. It's a piece of 3/4" flat webbing soaked in epoxy. Not sure where I heard of this idea. Probably here. Also still plugging away with the steering assembly. It's refreshing to be shaping wood again. I tire quickly of epoxy work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 I am very impressed with the speed and quality of your work! Glad you are in front of me.... Where did you get the webbing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Thanks Lennie! Quality always appears better in pictures. I picked up the webbing at a local outdoors store. It's just the flat (not tubular) nylon stuff that is used with Fastex buckles. We played around with a couple of other ideas like screwed in UHMW strip but I am happy with the way the webbing has worked out so far. Installation was simple. I'll let you know how it looks in a couple years! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 If you are going to drag your boat much I suggest bronze or stainless chafing gear for the keel. It not only stands up better, but protects the paint which protects the epoxy from UV. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 I think the trick with the webbing will be if it is compatible with epoxy. If not, it will simply peel off over time. You can probably test it by dropping a dry piece of your webbing onto a piece of wood that has bet wetted out with epoxy. If it is compatible, it will stick and you will have trouble pulling it off. If it lifts off like plastic, it could peel over time. A variation on this would be to use the rope trick. You could route in or saw a groove down the centerline of the keel, then drop an epoxy impregnated piece of rope into the groove. Again, the key is to find rope that epoxy will actually stick to, for example, polyester (yes) vs. polypropylene (no). Tough to tell apart, as they look so similar. Polypropylene floats. Polyester doesn't. Best way I have found to tell them apart. You might try the float test with the webbing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 As Dave has mentioned, keel strips are for abrasion protection. Metals work best, but there's another features that's just as, if not more important. This is replacability. These pieces are sacrificial in nature, will get beat up pretty good in time, so must be removed and replaced, every so often. Anything embedded in goo, will be difficult to remove and the damage may go beyond just some torn up nylon, defeating the whole point of its installation. This is why the traditional method of using a bronze or stainless half oval has stood the test of time. I've used aluminum, which isn't as tough, but more commonly available and easily machined. If you do use metal, bed it well and use little screws (I commonly use 1/2" #6 FH), just barely long enough to hold it in place. The idea being, the screws will pull out or shear off, rather then tear out large chunks of keel, in a hard strike. Lastly, if you're really anal about rot and such, bond the fastener holes for these little screws, so moisture can't get in and cause trouble. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Is the metal half oval a custom order thing from a metal fabricator or available off the shelf, and where. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Half oval are a stock item and carried by most marine supply outfits. There's two types: hollow back and solid. Hollow back is a stamped sheet metal piece, that's not nearly as tough, understandably, but a lot cheaper. The solid stuff is as the name suggests and a machined hunk of metal, which is really tough. Both types come predrilled, usually on 6" centers. If you pay full retail, these can be fairly costly, but you don't have to pay full up retail. Full retail is about $18 - #20 a foot for solid stainless, hollow back stainless is $7 -$8 per foot and solid back brass is about the same price as hollow back stainless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishman38 Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 LennieG, here's one source I found for these types of moldings. I have not purchased anything from them yet but they do seem to have about all sizes, shapes and types of metals. I also did not pay much attention to prices, was just looking for a place where I could get the stuff. http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/moulding/2,478.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 Thanks much! The fog is lifting...clearing up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 You might want to check with Frank, but I seem to remember some sort of discount with Hamilton and Jamestown a while back. I don't know how it works or if it's still in place. Just saying . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olp4835 Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 What does the bailer do?? It looks like it is on the bottom of the hull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 What does the bailer do?? It looks like it is on the bottom of the hull.It does mount to the bottom of the hull. This is the reason for the pocket cut into the outside of the hull which is to make the plate flush for smoother flow. The idea is that when open and with a certain amount of boat speed, the bailer sucks any water pooled inside using the Venturi effect. This will be my first experience using one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 I haven't updated in a while. Here is a condensed version of the last couple of weeks. Hull painted. Don't worry. No long boards were harmed in the finish of this hull. We used Benjamin Moore acrylic house paint which I have used on three previous boats. It's not a glossy showboat finish but I am pleased with how it turned out. This past weekend, the green house saw its second ever boat flipping party with beer motivation and YooHoo for the underaged participants. Today I dry fit the seat tops then epoxy coated the tanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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