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CS17 mk3 and CS20 mk3


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Doug,

 

Next week I'm heading to B & B to pick up my CS20.3 kit. In preparation I sat through all of Alan's CS15 videos, and started planning my approach. It's nice to see what the end of the journey looks like.

 

A few questions.

 

1. Am I right to assume water was splashing into the centerboard line hole, hence the cover?

2. Are those lights battery operated?

3. How is the process of filling and emptying the ballast tank working out?

4. How do you like the new main-sheet configuration?

5. How is the trailer working out?

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Hello Steve

 

1. I had not had water splashing into the centerboard hole, but I have not been in big waves yet.  I have had water splash up through the centerboard trunk in other boats, and the line comes into the cabin.  This is just a precaution.

 

2.  Those are battery lights, attached by strong magnets and with a safety tether.  If I should put in a battery and 12 volt system later, I will change to 12 volt LED lights.

 

3.  Without a big load in the boat, I have to top off the tank.  I have been using a bailer.  going between 4 and 5 mph Saturday, I was able to empty all but about one inch from the tank using the Andersen bailer.  I have an old whale pump from another boat and will try that to empty the tank when I'm going slowly.  I also have a kayak bailing pump to try.

 

4.  The new mainsheet configuration was suggested by Graham after sailing her during the Messabout.  It is easy to adjust with a lot of pressure, but you must help it a bit in light winds.  It's a tradeoff.

 

5.  I'm very happy with the trailer.

 

Doug

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Graham suggests putting it on the starboard side rather than the port side like his. The tiller handle of the motor hits the coaming with it to port. If you don't steer with the motor, it probably doesn't matter, but it sure is handy to be able to swing the motor if you are manuvering in a tight place. Other than that, Graham's well looks great.

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I put on a Trac aluminum motor bracket and a Trac mounting plate to be used with a Torquedo travel electric motor.  That way I can get in and out of boat launches and not hold up all the bass boats.  The cracked easily disconnects, leaving only the mounting plate.

 

I've also been thinking about doing the EC as a Class 6, electric and experimental, and sailing from the finish to the start and then back, using g a solar charger and doing it as a cruise rather than going 24 hours.  Just a thought - if I sit very still, maybe it will go away.

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Doug,

Can you please post photos of how you are anchoring the boat, and closeups of the anchor line, and talk about how easy it is to rig, and how the boat feels at anchor?

 

Also, do you have any photos of some of the stuff like kitchenette (sink, etc), or how you  mounted the stove?

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I'm working at camp in North Carolina, so can't send pics.

 

The line goes through a fairlead on the bow, then past the tabernacle (with a stainless rub strake to keep from chafe) to a reinforced cleat aft of the forward bulkhead.  I did not feel that the forward edge of the bow was strong enough.

 

The boat moved around a bit at anchor the one night I spent on anchor.  I need to play around with having the rudder and centerboard up and down and maybe a reefed mizzen out.

 

The stove is mounted on the aft cabin bulkhead so as to swing free and allow steam to escape.  The stove can be seen partway down on this page http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/12/howto/stoves/index2.html.  It's the one on the left with the Coleman gas tank hanging below.

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Edward. Here's my anchor on my CS-20 Mk-2. I'll be doing the same thing on my CS-17 Mk-3. It works well and is easy to use. The anchor rode drops into the mast tabernacle "well". The boat does sail back and forth at anchor. Most small, light boats do. The cleat is behind the tabernacle on the fore deck. I also had SS strips on the tabernacle.

post-1823-0-08397800-1435198252_thumb.jpg

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