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CS17 mk3 and CS20 mk3


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Hi Greek builder,

 

We did not have enough water to be able to put the ballasted centerboard board down. I left the sails down to cancel out the loss of the board. It should be about the same.

 

After I finish my CS17 mk3 I intend to check it out in deep water to prove it.

 

You have some great sailing waters. I spent over a year in the Agean and Ionian.

Thank you Graham,

It's clear now.

Do you think the CS 20 MKIII would be capable to sail these waters for a couple of weeks in the summer ?

Could it also accommodate a couple (sleeping and cooking) ?

And by all means if you ever find yourself in Greece DO let me know.

Chris

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Graham,

One thing you did not mention on your website and I do not believe it has come up on this thread, is unsinkability.  Anytime I hear lead I wonder about this.  I believe you are only placing it at the bottom of the centerboard but I still think it is an attribute of your boats worth mentioning.

dale

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I really want to build a CS20.3. But I think it's a fairly big project, and so I wanted to see one in person. I was particularly interested in the cabin which there doesn't seem to be many photographs of. As we all know, Doug was my option! I sent him a message inviting myself to come look at his boat at his home in Tennessee, and he didn't say no, so last Friday, while delivering my dad's car to Florida, my nephew Alex and I went to Doug's place.

 

First of all, he really lives in God's country (sorry Dave). I'd never been to Tennessee, and it was beautiful. Doug's shop is the envy of anyone, and he was outside to meet me. We wasted no time looking over "Look Far". Doug was in the middle of making some changes since the Messabout. Since he was such a friendly host, I'll post this pic first, even though I took it last:

 

post-853-0-18763100-1416364530_thumb.jpg

 

There are plenty of pictures of his boat on his blog and here, but it's hard to get perspective without seeing it in person. I was hesitant to ask, but Doug wasted no time in asking me to climb aboard and look things over. A deal breaker would be uncomfortable seating below. In this picture, I'm sitting against the bulkhead taking a selfie. I look a bit uncomfortable, but truth is I could have sat there for a long time. BTW, I'm 6' even. There wasn't much room above my head, so if you are say 6'2" I'd go visit Doug and decide for yourself! I imagined a backrest of some sort and a good book! The amazing thing was it seemed possible to sit at least four or five friends down below if conditions warranted it. 

 

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Doug pointed out the cavernous spot aft of the berths for storing clothes, sleeping bags, mattress pad, etc. There really is a big space there. 

 

post-853-0-72381600-1416364977_thumb.jpg

 

Forward of the berths is this nice platform for cooking, washing, or just a place to put my book and glasses at night. I am thinking food and cooking gear would be a natural for this location.

 

post-853-0-94440800-1416365022_thumb.jpg 

 

The berths below are certainly big. I like the fact they are sort of separated. I will have a variety of different people as guests, like my kids, and they are thrashers. It's good they have their "own" side. I think it would be easy to make a filler board for when my wife camps with me. The storage below is pretty shallow, but llok like they could swallow some gear. truthfully, it would be easy to add a lot of weight with all the storage. I need to avoid that!

 

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This look into the cockpit shows a lot of seating room. That is important to me. I think those seats are wide enough to sleep under the stars. 

 

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Doug and I talked a bit about the cabin enclosure he fabricated. It looks really nice, but I'd like to make something that is rigid and lockable. I have a few ideas, but that might warrant its own thread!

 

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Anyway, I left even more excited about the design than when I arrived. Thank you again Doug for your hospitality. 

 

Take Care,

Steve

 

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Doug,

 

I am hoping to get started soon on my CS20 MK III. I know you mentioned you bought a trailer new in NC. I can see from my pictures it's an EZ loader. It looked like a pretty good fit. I have a few questions.

 

1. why did you get one with rollers and not bunks? Is that what most CS's have?

2. I can see you purchased an EZlloader. What model did you purchase?

 

I may swing south and purchase a trailer when I pick up the boat kit itself.

 

Thanks,

Steve

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I would not use a trailer with rollers instead of bunks on a plywood boat. The rollers tend to "oilcan" the plywood everywhere that the hull contacts a roller. Keel rollers are fine as they are on a longitudinal structural member. In theory, most of the boat's weight is on the keel rollers, but I don't like to "take a chance".

 

I've never had launch or retrieval problem on a carpeted bunk for the size boats that we build. If you are concerned about friction on the bunks, you could use something like these: http://www.easternmarine.com/self-centering-bunk-glide-ons-for-2x6-lumber-white-86296-0

 

Just be careful that the boat doesn't slide off the trailer as you are backing down the ramp! Never release the bow eye until the boat is "down the ramp". (Hey, I've never "pre-launched" a boat this way, but I've seen it happen!")

 

Here is where i bought my trailers for my boats. They have great prices. Outer Banks boat Harbor, 970 Harkers Island Road, Beaufort, NC ‎  (252) 728-6004

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The trailer I got is an EZ Loader. They are made near Charlotte, NC and are sold through dealers throughout the SE. I got the aluminum one since it was only $200 more than the galvanized one. I added a second pair of bunks to support the weighted centerboard and I added a forward keel roller.

I've never had trouble with bunks loading and unloading. You want to get the stern to float up a little to decrease friction in launching, and the hull is lubricated by water when loading. I agree with Chuck about rollers concentrating the force in one place.

I added the last coat of paint to the cabin interior yesterday. I'll add pictures soon.

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CS17  mk iii VS CS20 mk iii:   The photo above is very helpful.   I plan to build CS17 next year, my wife thinks we should just go ahead and do the 20.     It would be helpful to know where the additional 3 feet of  length comes into play.  What are the differences in cockpit length, and cabin length.  Also it would be helpful to know the distance from bunk level to the inside of the cabin for each boat.  Cockpit depth would be good too.  Basically I'm looking for the human dimensions of the boat.  I would appreciate any help. 

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  • 1 month later...

post-396-0-48212800-1421592179_thumb.jpg

 

She is finally finished, with the cabin painted and varnished and little details like a gimballed one-burner stove, compass, etc.

I took her sailing this afternoon in a 10-12 knot breeze. I rowed and sailed her upwind and down with and without ballast. She is nicely balanced with an almost neutral helm.

Lightly loaded, the ballast tank needs to be topped off with the bailer. I'll try later with a camping/EC load.

Acceleration is better without the ballast, but there is not much difference in top end speed (it was a bit gusty, so I'll keep testing). Rowing is much easier without the ballast; in fact, she is easy to row from the bridge deck (the Mark I did not have a convenient place to row from).

With the weighted centerboard (vs having a downhaul), I found I needed to drop it while still on a run before going upwind because the board would bind in the tank with the side pressure on the beat.

I'll post more as I get on the water more.

 

 

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Doug-

Looking good! Am going to try to catch some of the EC and will try to figure it out to be at a check point or somewhere to see some of you in SWFL. Maybe not feasible but will check into it.

I am within a week of varnishing deck and repainting cockpit. Curious.....which did you do first (paint or varnish) and does it matter? I am planning on cleaning and sanding cockpit, epoxying deck , then painting cockpit, then varnishing deck.......just seems good way too isolate areas. Perhaps I need to check into cure times and do longest cure time product first.

Second-

Is it best to drill holes for hardware on deck, then epoxy then varnish.....or do hardware last......any comments welcome.

Thanks

Lennie

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  • 2 weeks later...

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