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CS17 mk3 and CS20 mk3


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They are not in the plans. I have a set of 10' oars for my Mark I (still for sale! Reduced to $9,000!) and borrowed a set of shorter oars from a friend who coaches crew. I will see which works best while at Cedar Key in early May.

The last coat of paint goes on the bottom tomorrow. The masts and rudder are finished. Lots of little details. Maybe some pictures at the end of work tomorrow.

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post-396-0-36888700-1398383547_thumb.jpg

 

Next-to-last coat of paint on the outside

 

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Painting the rudder

 

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Drilling the pivot hole on Alan's beautiful centerboard

 

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The inside of the boat will stay bright (encapsulated in epoxy) until after Cedar Key.  I do plan to finish the lockers and the thwart/mast base

 

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Detail of the forward end of one of the sprits.  They will stay bright, finished with a couple of coats of varnish to protect from UV.

 

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Aft end of one of the sprits with the rounded tip to fit the loop in the clew of the sail.

 

 

The sails and hardware arrived from B&B today!!
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That is a great piece on building the centerboard. Is Alan going to be available to build CSMk3 boards? This is an important and rather tricky part to build well, to achieve optimal strength and durability and performance and no vibration/hum. I could do it, though dealing with pouring lead is not in my comfort zone. I wouldn't mind paying for a proven board made by someone else for a reasonable price, just as I expect to pay for excellent sails made by someone else. In that vein, are mast extrusions available thru B&B? I see many posts from builders who have difficulty locating the specified extrusions in their local area. The sails B&B provides are presumably optimized for the specified mast extrusions. It would be nice if masts could be purchased as another option with the kit. As long as we're paying for shipping a kit, what are a few more pounds...?

Great work Doug, I hope to see photos of your boat at Cedar Key, wish I could be there!

Joel

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Joel,

We re supplying mast kits for all of our boats. On the mk3's which have tabernacles on the main mast, we drill and mate them for a perfect fit. All you have to do is glue the tabernacle to the forward bulkhead in the marked position and you should be done.

 

Alan and I built the 20 and 17 centerboards in parallel and cast the tips together. We are working on permanent molds so that the lead can be cast more cost effectively. 

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Thanks Graham, I wasn't aware mast kits were available, or that the tabernacle was pre-assembled. I appreciate the lengths you are going to in order to make it possible for amature builders to construct boats where the hull is true and solid, and the rig properly aligned and functioning as designed. Greatly increases my confidence and willingness to take on a big project.

 

Joel

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Doug, that looks awesome. I can't wait to see it in person, which might not be for awhile. I have a question. Are you planning on adding anything to the top of the gunnel to prevent damage during docking? I like the clean look, but I think it would be prone to damage. Maybe you are smother around the docks than I am!

 

Take Care,

Steve

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I haven't figured out exactly how to do a rub rail.  Do you follow the side-sheer line or do something parallel with the water line.  The former is the widest point.

 

Scott, the centerboard pivot bolt is accessible from the port bunk/seat.  It is sealed just like the one on the mark I with a plate secured with 3 screws and non-permanent sealant.

 

Also, today it occurred to me what the answer is to the cabin step quandary - a cooler!

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I haven't figured out exactly how to do a rub rail.  Do you follow the side-sheer line or do something parallel with the water line.  The former is the widest point.

The reason for a rub rail is to protect the hull from docks, pilings and such.  So I suggest the widest part.  In the case of this boat I think it would enhance the lines of the boat as well.

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I think a rubrail following the shear would both provide necessary protection, and enhance the shear. Half-round trimming the cabin top would complement the rubrail and also provide protection. My SkiffAmerica 20 has a somewhat similar profile, and the sweeping rubrail is both attractive and protective. It also adds considerable strength. I've attached a photo of my SA20 (or tried to, we'll see how this works), which gives some idea what I'm talking about.post-2288-0-22418100-1398904527_thumb.jpg

Joel

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I made the handrails on the cabin top of oak, if that's what you were referring to. My earlier post pertained to the rub rails. All the half round trim is cherry. All wood was cut locally in northern Vermont, which was kind of nice.

Joel

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