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CS17 #370 Peggy-O


LennieG
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I mentioned to Graham back in August that I might launch my boat at the MessAbout this year. Well  that didn't quite happen did it?

I sensed a knowing and friendly grin on his face.

Photos show progress. Guess I'll have to put it off to early November. :)

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Many builders have referenced putting gaskets under the hatch (on the plans for cockpit hatches), or on the frame to seal out the water.  Some have rabbeted a groove around one or the other.  I have just started pondering this as I have been laying out my hatches.  My biggest concern at the moment is not having enough 1/4" ply to finish the job.  Although, one more sheet won't break the bank.  I was just trying to pick your brain, so I wouldn't need to use my own.  We will figure it out with some help from the b+bboard.  Photos anyone? 

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Ok, up to speed on the question...was in the shop today and looked at the plans on this issue. Sorry for the brain cramp...been putting the energy in the fore section of the boat with cutting notches in deck beams and today gluing in some of the foreward deck beams. Should be able to glue in the king plank tomorrow, cut the hole in the king plank and set and glue the mast tube tomorrow or Weds, and install drainage slot etc:)

Installing the gasket in the seat hatches worked out pretty good by following Graham's suggestion on the plans of expoxying them to the lid. So, plan to sand the edges, apply epoxy and probably clamp a 1x1 board covered with plastic to press down on the gasket. I am probably missing the history of posts on the issue and maybe some of the issues but not looking to get hung up on this one :)

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I can't name the brand but chose one at Lowes that was about 3/4" wide, dense and small as possible and seemed to squeeze down small without sacrificing sealing capabilities. I sanded the underside of the hatch cover where the gasket would attach to obviously. I then removed the backing paper, may have wiped off the glue that comes with product with a solvent and epoxied it, pressing with a plastic covered 1x1

Seemed to work, sitting in my shop as I haven't had any water getting into lockers. Ha ha.

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This is getting fun....feel like I am closing it on it. Have all the deck beams glued in now and have a handle on how I will proceed with positioning the foreward mast tube.

Here are a couple workarounds I decided to do in case in it helps any other builders.

1. I had built my masts not realizing I would need the lower section for mast step instalation. I searched in big box stores for PVC tubes that matched the outside diameter of Mast tube with no luck initially. Finally found a 2 1/2" PVC pipe at Ace hardware that had same OD as mast tube, which in my case is 2 7/8. Bought a ten footer, cut off end flanges and have " masts" with adequate length. This may help northern builders with a winter project.

2. Wasn't initailly sure how I would mark the position of mast bottom on the forward mast step after aligning rake and plumb.

Believe the clamped cut outs as shown should help. Haven't seen others takes on this piece but think I will tab a couple spots on bottom of tube to hold it, then next day fillet, glass and drill drain hole and build Eskimo hut around it

Moving on to planing deck beams for deck install prep today

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Statement and question please.

Statement: I love shaving wood.

Question: I have purchased a Garelick transom ladder to get myself or others back in the boat when needed and will be installing it soon.Question relates to the amount and position of bracing. Obviously it will get attached near bottom of transom. With a thirty pound motor at top of transom requiring a solid one inch vertical backing block the entire height of transom, what does this ladder require which will hold a soaking wet 230 lb. guy. Is a horizontal 1" thick 1x4 spanning that half of the transom enough?

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

Folks-

I would appreciate some expertise on finishing my deck bright, and wish to end up with a medium shade. I do not want blonde bleached look, but not dark wood look either. I am curious as to the process. I do plan to use three coats of epoxy first and use MAS Slow.

So if stain is necessary do you use a sequence of stain, epoxy, then varnish, or epoxy, stain and varnish?

The next questions will be in regards to patching up the temporary screw holes. Is it tricky to match color? Do you buy dyes for the color and try to match or do so with wood flour/ cell-o-fil (cabosil) mixes, or is that covered with the stain. Thinking about adding bungs from WidgetCo to add consistently. I would avoid that process if my holes don't end up visible.

Here are three photos

I am hoping to end up with a color tint of the bottom pic, and have Graham's mahogany ply.

Thanks you!

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