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CS17 #370 Peggy-O


LennieG

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Lenny,

She is really looking great.

 

Why are you re-painting the cockpit  Maybe you already said but I did not catch it.

 

The photo on the right looks like sort of a traditional Maine boat color.  Do not know the name of it but I have always liked it.  Not near as reflective as white.  I have been considering something similar.

 

dale

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Thanks gents!

Getting closer.

Bill- possible for Cayo. Official launch date set at 3/28 but would love to do an unofficial but real one with you guys that weekend.

Dale- thanks. I like the color as well but for two reasons need to repaint but will use same color.. One it is a mess with epoxy drips etc. Two, I added structure since first painting (supports for deck etc) .....live and learn..... It is system three paint. Went with orcas white but way too bright, so added Whitlbey white which was too dark by itself, so it is either 60/40 or 40/60 ratio....cn tell you when back at the boat tomorrow.

Dave- yes planning bright but there are more blemishes, sanding errors, fill marks than I would like. Assume varnish won't cover those mistakes but will tstill go bright most likely.

You start off knowing amateur boat builders get either a show boat or workboat. You secretly hope for a showboat and work towards it but end up with a workboat. Either way, I am thrilled and proud.

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Guys-

Some questions and progress report. Re painting cockpit put off to next week, varnishing deck the week after, then on to hardware and finishing. Ordered a trailer this week and due end of next week. Hoping to launch Fri 3/20 and do day trip to Cayo Costa.

Excuse me if my questions show my lack of boat experience, not to mention building experience.i have neither.

-1. Getting the boat onto the trailer from the cradle on asphalt pavement...I assume you pick it up, place on rollers (PVC) and crank it onto trailer. Other suggestions?

- 2. I have mahogany for the rubrails, currently 3/4" by 2" and plan to rip down to 3/4" by 1 1/2 or less. I am thinking rip it, taper front three feet, drill holes, then trim edges, sand and varnish. Correct order? I assume the foreward holes need to be closer together than aft holes because of the bend. Does 7or8" spacing at foreward end sound right, then 12" at aft 12' or so?

3. When installing hardware I think Graham told me you need a 1" backing block when it is hardware that has stress like blocks or cam cleats, and 1/4" when it doesn't, like Bulls eyes. Did I hear that right?

Thanks

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Lennie,

She is really looking great.  I cannot wait to see her in person. (Hopefully at Cayo Costa).

 

I have a tilt trailer.  I have not done it but I believe I could winch the boat onto the trailer directly from the ground using the tilt.  I love the tilt and use it all the time.  I do not get the trailer hubs wet when launching or retrieving.

 

I just went out an measured 'Lively'.  My rub-rail screws are on 16" centers from bow to stern.  She has been around since 2007 and I have never had any trouble with the rails. Also, I did not use epoxy on the rails but used I think 3M 4200 or maybe silicon which would allow me to pull off and replace if necessary.  I think if I did it again I would just epoxy them. My rails ended up being 5/8" X 1".  But remember they are laminated of two pieces because that was the size mahogany I was given.  Now that I think of it, I think I laminated them on the boat then glued/siliconed but not sure about that.  I really like the size mine turned out.  I think 1 1/2 is too wide.  I have hit a few docks and seawalls and have not damaged anything (of course this was only on purpose just testing strength of rub-rails) LOL

 

I can't remember but I probably used whatever backing plate Graham recommended but 1" seems way to thick to me.  I am thinking 3"8 plywood.  The main thing is to through bolt using proper big washers

 

Hope this helps,

dale

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Thanks Dale- I really don't want large rub rails so you cleared it up. Sometimes photos are deceiving. I can also save an 18' er by just ripping one to 1"x3/4". Was just planning to use non adhesive bedding per the plans, and hull already painted so won't be permanently attaching rub rails. I frankly didn't spec out a tilt trailer nor was that part of the discussion so I assume I am not getting one of those but will check with trailer manufacture Monday. I am thinking maybe I can pull the boat right off the cradle, maybe breaking the cradle which I can live with. All new to me, but tough to get four guys to lift boat at same time.

Graham - thanks for the clarification ....got our signals crossed on the backing plates.

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It is not hard to put your boat on a trailer. You have a winch on the trailer and a bow eye on the boat. Just line up the aft roller on the trailer with the keel, crank up the front of the trailer as necessary and winch the trailer back to the front of the cradle. If you have some help you can use them as ballast to keep the front of the trailer down while you disassemble the front end of the cradle. Alternately you can block up the boat amidships first so that there is no weight on the trailer until you get the trailer back to the mid blocking. Remove the blocking and crank the trailer back until the boat is part of the trailer adjusting the front height of the trailer with the wheel jack as necessary. It is easy to manhandle that boat and trailer on a good surface.

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Dave- very good. Correction- I didn't take pictures after yesterday. :)

David-

Local trailer guy Rocket ( I think they are local but maybe a local franchise of a large company). Picking it up today or tomorrow, and driving around in circles and parking lots. They call it Supreme G2LA trailer 12B tires. It is 48" wide. They do not have a tilt version so had to pass on that part. Being a novice I decided I needed to find a company I felt I could trust and go with what they say. I stressed it is a light boat and understand "you need a trailer for like a 15' john boat" As Graham stresses you do not want to get a trailer for a much heavier boat or the boat will bounce around on the trailer. Any issues you see let me know please.

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This trailer looks very similar to the trailer I have under my 18' workboat.  I purchased a light trailer with an extended tongue.  It does not tilt, but I can launch and retrieve by myself with little fuss.  I always put on pvc posts on the back to help guide the boat onto the trailer and position it when the trailer is submerged.  

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I always put them on my trailers also.  Another good reason is it moves the lights up where they can be seen.  I have traveled behind trailers with lights on the trailer in a rainstorm and they could not be seen at all.

 

Both places might work until the two that go underwater quit.

 

dale

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Good point Dale. I am picking the trailer Tuesday but will call tomorrow and ask about lights higher up.

Have three coats varnish on the deck and hope to have 12 by Sat or Sun. The varnish says wait 24 hours between coats, but somewhere I read you can add a coat a day in early stages. Planning to squash 12 coats into 8 days. Using a west marine labelled "premium" varnish by Epiphanes. So far so good. Did quite a bit of sanding prior to and after first coat to further level out the three coats of epoxy etc. seems like painting where primer or first coat shows you what you have,

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