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CS17 #370 Peggy-O


LennieG

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OK guys, I bet you'll enjoy this one. I tried, just for the helluvit, brick red dye in my epoxy today. The idea being instead of white glue between laminations I would have something closer to the finished color. I came thru it ok I think but wouldn't recomend it to others. If anything try black but even then it is a messy proposition and sort of "a solution looking for a problem". With all the clamps it is quite difficult to clean it all up, and trust me it was a sea of red.

Live and learn.....

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Not much time with the boat this week as the Janury company begins arriving in SW FL, but survived the trimming of the coaming front, as well as the sea of red from the pigment. Boat building seems to me to be a series of problems faced and solved. Think I am only two or three full days away from having all coaming, deck hatches and trim finished, but don't quote me. :)

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Hi Dale-

Yes that piece comes with the kit and it is all epoxied and ready to install. Bill gave me a couple slide away hinges that I will use and only need to decide if the catches at the top to hold it shut will be in way of trim at top or if adjustments needed to something.

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Have the mast hardware 95% done. Question please (rookie question): is the 1/4" spacer block and eye strap for staysail on the main or mizzen? Is that the same piece that some add in order to use a line to hold up the aft end of mast while docking or otherwise stationary?

Thanks

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Have the mast hardware 95% done. Question please (rookie question): is the 1/4" spacer block and eye strap for staysail on the main or mizzen? Is that the same piece that some add in order to use a line to hold up the aft end of mast while docking or otherwise stationary?

Thanks

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The spacer is to put a fair, straight down pull on the staysail halyard block, as the block will bind and rub against the mast other wise. I usually make a "crane" for this from some stainless flat bar stock and a wedge under it, to space it off the top and faces of the mast. On the mizzen, you'd have a crane fore and aft, so the mizzen and staysail halyards can clear the mast and in regard to the mizzen halyard, pull straight up on the headboard crinkle.

 

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This would be typical for a mizzen, with a staysail "tang" on the forward side (right) and the halyard on the aft side of the mast. Simply a strap, drilled for fastener and tackle holes, bent over a masthead plug (in this case). The tang angles match the needs of the staysail and halyard. The underside of the tangs are supported with little hunks of hardwood, glued and screwed to the cap and masthead.. Simply, easy to make, etc. I didn't invent this, but have blatantly stolen it for many of my pieces.

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Thanks Paul .

I have been busying myself with the mast because frankly I am stuck on how to best trim the coaming. My first steps illustrated how darn aggressive the router can be, and I got some low spots. I don't see a big issue with rough finishing the top front of coaming via hand sanding. (Prior to roundover step for final shape), but rough trimming the bottom of front of coaming is a little perplexing. I need to take off some wood as the bottom comes up and makes the turn. A bit scared of the router, it seems too much for hand sanding and awkward for pull saw. I guess my real dilemma is establishing the line to remove wood to.

My thought is to establish and finalize top of coaming, and then measure down to bottom and remove, somehow, excess beyond the line. Any thoughts welcomed.

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Lennie,

 

I'm with you on the router idea, Might be a little slower but I established my height off the side and foredeck, then used my pull saw to cut close to the line, followed by low angle plane and sanding to round edges.

Mat be slow but sure.

 

MM

 

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Staysail halyard runs to the mizzen. Not sure what you mean by holding up the aft end of the mast when docking. Do you mean holding up the aft end of the boom or sprit when lowering the sail?

 

If so that is a topping lift. A light line that runs from aft end of boom or sprit to the top of the mast. Some sailors don't use them because though convenient at times a topping lift is an extra line and extra windage. Once the sail is down you can bring the halyard back and use it for a topping lift. It is a matter of preference and priorities. You can always add it later.

 

 

 

I attach my topping lift to the blue line threaded through a hole in the halyard block.

 

 

You might try a sharp hand plane on the coaming, a portable power plane, or a belt sander. My preference would be in that order. I think a  router without a guide can be treacherous

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Figured I would give an update. Besides, I've been working my butt off and wanted to tell somebody. Adding the "lipstick" as a friend calls it. Been adding things to the deck and all going well but process is slow. I build a template for everything I do for first time, which may cost time or save time....not sure.

Anyway, sanded entire deck today and added stuff.

Looking and feeling pretty good. Need to get very creative with clamps in this process.

Getting there....moving goals as I proceed :)

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Thanks David-

Very rewarding so far and love the time at the "shop".

A friend is putting in some time with me now and I really appreciate his help. He got a little aggressive while sanding side deck yesterday and went thru a layer of ply, but think I have a fix......add a pad for when you step onto boat from a dock. May not look bad at all....many of these added items flow right into the look of the boat once they are on.

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Covered up yesterday's blemish with 1/8" thick sapele with saw lines in it. Seemed to work out. Don't know about durability of it long term but shouldn't be uncomfortable to sit on or foul rigging. The trim over the center line at front of boat worked out ok. Little more lipstick then moving in to finishing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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