PAR Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 I had a different shape coming but used plywood, which was faced afterward with 1/10" mahogany. I had an 8' section forward, with slightly shorter pieces down each side. If you use solid mahogany, you'll have to steam it and use heat, plus accept the fact that mahogany doesn't like to bend and breakage is likely. You's be well advised to make a template for your pieces, shaping them to near finial dimensions, before bending and installing. Shaping on the boat is a lot harder, then on a work bench. Rather than butt the seams and try to hide them with clean joints, I placed a 3/4" dowel at the seam and rabbited the plywood into it, which hid the edge and end grain. My coming was about a 1/2" when veneered, then it was topped with a solid mahogany piece about 3/4" square, with well rounded corners and a rabbit under it, to receive the top of the coming. Of course there's few different ways to skin this kitty. Strip planking the whole thing makes it really easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Thanks.....the fog is lifting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 You can see the dowel I used to terminate the end of the front combing piece in this photo. They were trimmed flush once fitted, so a cap could be installed over the combing edge. The curved portion of the combing at the front of the cockpit, will eat up a large swath across a sheet of plywood, so rig up a template to get the shape right. I did this and still left the top of the combing tall after I temporary tacked in to the carlin. I used a batten to get the curved top aesthetically pleasing, removed the combing, cut to this curve and reinstalled. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Great couple days....got past some intimidating parts of the build that has caused sleepless nights. Did my last application of "putty", I think, but more important cut the holes in center thwart and mizzen mast step, aligned and installed the mast step, thanks to Alan Stewart who took all the mystery out of this with his video on the CS15. Â His ( and I am sure, Graham's) method of establishing the 3 degree rake and plumb with the 1 " block 20" up the mast was superb. It all worked out great and the photo may distort but it is all aligned well. Paul- thanks for the coaming photos and info- it will become very useful. Your boat looks great!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Nice Lennie! Things are coming together now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 Not my boat Lennie. I built her for a guy over on the east coast, near Daytona. I would have liked to have kept her though, but then I'd have to have made even more changes . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Niemann Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Lennie, Not sure what you mean by seams but if you are referring to the combing, mine is 4 lengths of Mahogany. Two shorter pieces for the forward curve and two long pieces one on each side.  My combing is 1/4" mahogany for the combing but then I added a 5/16" outside piece down to the deck so it gives an appearance of a little over 1/2 inch. I actually did this because when I added my canvas cabin I needed this thickness to screw the snaps to the outside of the combing. Since you mentioned laminating, maybe you are planing to laminate the combing with two 3/16" pieces and that is great but my suggestion will use a lot less wood. I like the thicker appearance much better than the original 1/4" only.  I had to steam bend the curve at the forward cockpit. If you do steam bend, I recommend you view a UTube video by a boat builder using a plastic bag and steam while on the boat. He did it for the gunnel. If you can not find it let me know. I think I can find his name on Off Center Harbor.  I butt joined the combing pieces together using straight epoxy and the seams show darker than the mahogany but it is really not noticeable. The way I did it, there are only three glue lines.  Hope this helps. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted August 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 It does help Dale, and yours looks great I know. Thanks! Getting my arms around some good options, have talked to my mill guy who makes high end hardwood doors and does a lot of curved laminations, and found some you tubes on bent lamination, so the learning curve is happening. So fun. Should be painting cockpit this week, have picked up the motor and ready to build the mount and move towards the decking. yeah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul356 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Good progress, Lennie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 I received the kit one year ago today, 9-4-2013. There were 16 full weeks when I didn't touch the boat. Today I put on the first coat of  paint on the cockpit. It has been a rewarding journey. Glad it is not a race, but very pleased with the progress, and appreciate the help of friends when I needed it along the journey, particularly the more experienced and always willing boat builders on these pages. As someone said here, it is only others that have built boats that really get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted September 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 Put on the third topcoat this morning, and then a non-skid layer this afternoon. Used the Bateau additive powder. Like others have said here years ago, a bit clumpy and hard to keep suspended, but believe it all worked out. Not pictured here after applying, but assume I can sand off the clumps in the morning and apply the fourth and hopefully final coat. Looking forward to moving forward. I like the System Three LPU system paint much more than the Interlux Premium Yacht enamel.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 curious, what are those cleats for on the stbd side of the center board trunk ? Â MM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 MM- oar brackets.....wanted something to screw them into. End is held with attached, and brackets on CB trunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattandTru Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 That is a pic of the forward compartment by the main mast step? Pipes receive the oar handles under the deck? Very nifty. Matt and Tru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Yes- not my idea. Works well for some apparently. Next time I may save a bunch of time and hang them under one of the side decks, as the designer recommends. I don't have oars yet but am hoping I haven't lost much leg space. I did buy one at oat a Westt Marine for dry fitting as I built the storage, and then returned it. Seemed to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 I am thinking I will store my future oars under the side decks as you mentioned but I figure they won't tuck neatly under there without some curvature built in. I also wonder if the curvature could be used when rowing to wrap around the high decks and maybe require less length than straight oars. Anyways, you're boat is looking great Lennie. You'll be sailing before long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Lennie that makes entirely to much sense. Â MM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 I am thinking I will store my future oars under the side decks as you mentioned but I figure they won't tuck neatly under there without some curvature built in. I also wonder if the curvature could be used when rowing to wrap around the high decks and maybe require less length than straight oars. If by this you mean build in a bend down when the oars are in place rowing and the blades are perpendicular to the water I think you will find they twist in your hands as you try to make a stroke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 I applied my third and final coat of paint on Sat morning. I applied my fourth and final coat of paint on Sun morning. i applied my fifth and final coat of paint today. Â is it me? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Lennie that makes entirely to much sense. Â T is If you do this the secret is getting the oars as long as possible. The longest possible I think is 8'10". I missed by a couple inches due to my inability to line up the holes/ oars/ fore section optimally, getting the oars in and the handles as forward as possible. Dale (cs17 "lively"did better). I'll give you $5 if you get to 8'10"". Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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