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CS17 #370 Peggy-O


LennieG

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Weenies are those that buy into the need to reduce belly fat, while eating a McDonald's Quarter Pounder and drinking light beer. Real sailors drink whole beer (not the 2% stuff they call light) or more serious alcohol and have built in coolers, dedicated to holding said beverage, rather then the tofu sandwiches and iced tea the other half brought along, plus are proud of their belly fat, often having it tattooed, so when it accidentally peeks out of a tee shirt, you have something to distract their eyes from the hair and stretch marks.

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Weenies are those that buy into the need to reduce belly fat, while eating a McDonald's Quarter Pounder and drinking light beer. Real sailors drink whole beer (not the 2% stuff they call light) or more serious alcohol and have built in coolers, dedicated to holding said beverage, rather then the tofu sandwiches and iced tea the other half brought along, plus are proud of their belly fat, often having it tattooed, so when it accidentally peeks out of a tee shirt, you have something to distract their eyes from the hair and stretch marks.

All, those weenies.  Thats what I thought.

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I'm not sure how you intend to cut your slot, but I free handed it with a laminate trimmer and a straight cut bit with a bottom bearing. I drilled a couple of holes to get the bit through and tried hard to keep a reasonably square relationship with the case sides. The changing deadrise in this area will make the trimmer (or router) bevel the slot opening, if it's permitted to ride on the bottom planks. Once you've roughed in the slot opening, it's fairly easy to clean it up square with the case sides, then round it over for sheathing into the slot.

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Thanks Paul. Will consider and go research to understand some of those terms like laminate trimmer....assume it is a router bit. I am least comfortable with the router of all tools I think just because if find it hard to see the cutting line thru the window. I was unresolved and will noodle all of this today. Had considered a jig saw and/or Japanese pull saw, of which I have 4. I understand your point re you want a vertical cut in relation to trunk sides, not 90 degrees to plane of boat floor. Was considering Fein multi master as well as it is light and easy to handle and control

Thanks

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For me, cutting the slot was pretty complication and stress free. I just measured over from the CL, drilled a large enough hole to get my pull saw in, and cut out chunks until I was within 1/8" from the case. Then I sanded it close to flush with a drill and sanding disk, and finish sanded by hand to get a good radius. Whole operation probably took an hour and was quite satisfying.

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All sounds good. I bought a "palm"router today which actually will be useful for several steps moving forward. Bought the Ryobi (?) and it feels good in the hand....I always strayed away from my 35 year old Craftsman clunker. I need to line up the temporarily clamped trunk tomorrow and establish cut lines. Have re-read the plans 10 times I swear. It keeps saying "glue and screw" components of the trunk. I haven't used a screw yet and confused where they would go, other than the center thwart. The king posts are glued to the side, the rails are glued to the side.....do I add screws to those components to add strength?

Also, do I understand correctly that you install one side at a time, first one being the one butting up against keel batten? I believe the plans say to screw it to the keel batten.....where/how?

Thanks for your advice.post-3404-0-60401300-1391737469_thumb.jpg

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I think the screws are for the port side of the case, alone, into the side of the keel batten. Then you would attach the starboard side separately. If you shaped your batten to fit the V bottom like I did, then the side of the batten is quite narrow and trying to hit it with screws, at least for me, seems a little unnerving.

So I said screw that (pun intended), glued the two halves together outside the boat, fitted to the bottom, ripped some spacers to jam down between the halves to hold the appropriate gap for the CB, then tacked the whole thing in place. I held the bottom in place by jamming some scrap pieces against the starboard seat side and made a jig to hold the upper aft end in place. I also pre fitted the forward cross members to hold the spacing right at the forward end.

post-3398-0-28333200-1391742221_thumb.jpg

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Matt-

Thanks- not just me and that is good to know. :)

I reread plans this morning and I will say it is clearing up a bit. The screws every 4" off center thru trunk side and into keel batten seems like a stretch and I worry that the head of a screw protrudes and nicks the CB as well. I also shaped the keel batten and there is not a lot there to screw into. Not to mention that I did a poor job of cleaning up after installing keel batten, so the goo accumulated and beside the keel batten it is a bit high, raising the the trunk sides, and providing less area to screw into. I'll go back it it with aggressive sanding today.

One more question. The 3/4" X 1 1/2" beam at seat height from cockpit side to trunk.......did you simply use a butt joint with no notches? Don't see where you would have notches so thinking of building a wooden bracket around and under the " butt" joint.

Thanks- can't wait to be past this stage.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am on a ski trip but never let the mind get too far away from the build or the forum. I have noticed some wild looking snowboards with interesting art and thinking about finding some budding (read: cheap) artist to paint some aspect of the boat later in the build. Maybe the rudder, or CB handle or trunk. I believe if done right might be fun, different and add interest to what will mostly be a white boat. Has anyone here done something similar? At the risk of bringing on a new load of well deserved weenie comments, share your thoughts please.......post-3404-0-58890400-1394034480_thumb.jpg

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