Jump to content

Unorthodox coaming


mitchmellow

Recommended Posts

I'm not a woodworker and I don't have a lot of tools.  I started my FreeB wondering how far I could get.  When it came time for the coaming I just didn't want plywood but I also didn't want to buy a lot of clamps that I might never use again.  This is what I came up with.

 

I went to a big box store and rummaged around.  I found pine door stop in 8 foot lengths that is 1 3/8 x 1/4.  With some careful selection I found a few pieces that seemed to bend fairly well.

 

I was a little concerned about the sharpness of the bend at the front of the FreeB coaming.  I redrew it to a continuous 6 inch radius.

 

post-3195-0-35354800-1377651619_thumb.jpg

 

I decided to use a 2x6 I already had to create the form.

 

post-3195-0-14708000-1377651722_thumb.jpg

 

I had purchased a pack of 100 1 inch #6 flat head screws.  These became my "clamps".  I marked the first piece of doorstop for holes every 1 1/2 inches along the length and midway on the width. I  was able to bend the door stop around the form drilling one hole every 3-5 marks depending on the sharpness of the bend(sorry, it got a little intense and I forgot to stop and take any pictures).  Once the stop was fastened all the way around the form I left it for a day to take on the shape. I marked the top of this first piece with pencil at each of the holes so there would be a guide for the second piece.  After that I marked the piece for a 8 to 1 scarf joint (sure wish I had taken those pictures!).  It was then reattached to the form with the screws and glued at the scarf joint.  The joint was at the side of the form where I could clamp it with a 5 inch C clamp that I have.

 

Once the scarf joint was dry I took all the screws out but left the first piece on the form.  I then marked a second piece of door stop and screwed it in place in the same manner over the first.  It wasn't quite long enough so I had to add a little length (another scarf joint).  I followed the same process to create the scarfs for a joining joint.  Then I added glue (titebond 3) all the way around and placed a screw every 1 1/2 inches.

 

When the glue was dry I took the screws out and removed the coaming from the form. The two laminations were solidly glued together and I had only missed the hole in the first piece a few times (When I eventually sewed it in place I realized that the double holes would be covered by the cloth.).

 

post-3195-0-91719000-1377653145_thumb.jpg

 

Of course, with this method I had no good way to attach a wood lip.  I was going to go without but in the end decided to use a rope coaming using some 5/8 poly rope.

 

post-3195-0-91471000-1377653431_thumb.jpg

 

By now the guys with the table saws and clamps must be laughing loudly. :lol:  But I have a reasonably attractive 1 3/8 x 1/2 coaming, I didn't need to find a friend with a table saw and I've kept the cost of my project down by not accumulating clamps I may never use again.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Now that is pretty darn neat! The only flaw I see in your story is YOU CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGH CLAMPS!  They always come in handy!  But that aside, nice coaming and and I can see that with a jig saw or router (either way) you could have done a wood lip (nothing wrong with the rope).  You could have cut a piece to slip over the coaming and glue it on.  Or, made the coaming overly wide and router from the bottom up to have the lip.  But, your method looks to be a whole lot easier.   Nice work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to admit that memory is selective.  After posting I recalled that I did have one piece that gave me fits. Moisture and heat didn't help.  I discovered there was great variability in the "bendability" of the wood.  The first piece just bent around without heat or moisture and was done (lucky, I guess).  Through better selection I ended up with a second piece that would do the same.  I think it helped a lot when I radiused the front.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mitch:

I'm usually happy when a project requires the purchase of new tools. P is correct about the number of clamps needed in a shop. In mathematical terms, it is N = C + D. Where N is the number of clamps needed for the task, C is the number of clamps you have, and D is a variable that is related in a complex manner to how conscientious you are about storing your clamps where you can find them, the distance to the closest hardware store, and the hours that the hardware store is open.

 

The lip on a coaming is an essential feature. It must be of an appropriate shape and strong enough for secure attachment of a spray skirt.

 

Fair winds, Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have always known that no matter how many clamps you have you need more.  Glad that someone has determined exactly how to calculate how many I am short.

 In mathematical terms, it is N = C + D. Where N is the number of clamps needed for the task, C is the number of clamps you have, and D is a variable that is related in a complex manner to how conscientious you are about storing your clamps where you can find them, the distance to the closest hardware store, and the hours that the hardware store is open.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

Supporting Members

Supporting Members can create Clubs, photo Galleries, don't see ads and make messing-about.com possible! Become a Supporting Member - only $12 for the next year. Pay by PayPal or credit card.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.