Outer Banks Build questions help please

[striperick]

I have been searching the internet for a small cruiser build for my wife and I. I keep coming back to the outer banks 20.It is just one of those things where you see the picture and say yeah thats the one ....  We are looking for an economical cruiser that we will trailer and put in a slip in Narragansett bay RI. Full disclosure I have never built a boat before.However this is what I do have at hand.....Trying not to date myself ... Architectural woodworking experience 30 years including cutting, assembly , installation & engineering. Currently I earn my living doing curved interior woodwork like shaped administration and reception desks etc. I have access to vendors w/ bs1088 pywood (and others)  and an insulated garage  21' x 21'  w/ a typical garage door height exit. I have emails to B & B and I am confident that the hull will come out of the garage fully built  on a dolly  as far as height. I am not intimated by the framework, sheathing or the woodwork (but still i dont know what I dont know).I know this is not a stich and glue boat. But in my opinion the curves and the lines on the OB are probably more intricate than a S & G boat but also makes her so pretty.But again I will rely on my experience bending materials.

 

What I am honestly lacking is the fiberglass experience. and i know my workspace is tight. I will have to kidde corner the build in the garage and possibly  put the framework on wheels. The build will start soon and I can heat the garage for winter but will I get myself into trouble by not being able to control the humidity levels for a fiberglass/epoxy  layup on the hull that potentially could happen during winter or early spring?

 

I am trying to think outside the box and frame,sheath and flip.Pre fit all upper componentsduring winter ,reflip in spring do the glass and bottom paint, flip and final assembly. But maybe this isnt the best idea. Advise on this thought please.

 

And if anyone has firsthand knowledge that if the OB20 is self bailing at rest would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

[Chick Ludwig]

I built the OB-20 hull #1. She is self bailing. I built her on a "ladder frame" that had 6" castors so I could move it. You may have to pull it out of your garage and build a frame for a hoist to have room to turn it over. Turning a boat that size is a hard enough job that I only want to do it once, so I completed the hull, glassed and painted it  before turning. When you build the deck and cabin, glass over onto the hull about an inch up to a masked off tape line, and trim the glass with a razor knife before it gets hard. Then paint before removing the tape and plastic. If you cover the hull below the sheer with plastic, and are careful with the rest of the build to not slop onto the hull, this method works fine. Your rub rail will cover this joint so you wont see the edge.

 

I've built several boats in a shop with only a kerosene heater. The epoxy is not as sensitive to temperature as polyester. Use the fast resin and keep enough heat to cure according to the directions from the epoxy supplier. I've never had a humidity problem.

[Dale Niemann]

I will add only this to Chicks comments.  I live in Florida. Big time humidity.  It has not been a problem for me.  Occasionally, I will get some blush and it just needs washing off with water.  Caution, anytime you might even think there may be blush, wash.  It is easier than dealing with the problems it can cause.

[Ronny B]

  I also had no experience with boatbuilding or fibreglass work.  My OB20 started with a few sheets of plywood, a jig saw, a couple gallons of epoxy, and a prayer.  If you read too much about all the challenges involved, you'll never start.  It sounds like you can read a drawing and hold a saw. Pull the trigger, you'll figure it out.

Cheers,

Ron

[striperick]

Thanks for the responces Chick Dale and Ronny. Companion CD ordered. Future availible free time now spoken for all for a good reason.