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CS 17


Paul356

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  • 5 months later...

post-1405-0-06898000-1464227384_thumb.jpg  This shows the rudder and the outboard semi-attached to make sure everything will work.  And it will. *(more later).  The bracket is the elegant and removable stainless steel model from Duckworks.  By the time I finish fiddling with the wood block surface on the bracket face, I don't think I will need to take any notch out of the transom to allow the outboard to fold up and lock in position.  I had already stiffened the outside of the transom with a layer of glass and now have beefed up the inside of the starboard side with an additional layer of glass covered by a piece of ply.  That, plus the stiffness that will come from the cleat and rear seat structure will be more than enough to handle the outboard whether thrusting or stowed.

 

​Now the *:  Despite trying to mock up, hold the outboard in position, balance in place with blocks and clamps, etc. etc., when I finally got this far and drilled holes and fastened bolts, I found that the rudder will swing into the prop when the outboard is rotated 180 degrees for reverse.  Gawk.  I realize the risk of the rudder getting grabbed as the boat heads sternward, but all things considered, I have decided to accept and watch out for that hazard rather than move the outboard outboard now.  Also, if I keep the rudder up, there is no conflict.  And things should work very nicely heading where our Wisconsin state motto commands -- Forward -- which is where I plan to be going most of the time. 

 

Nice to have the boat home from winter quarters to work on again, and nice to have some warm temps to do it in.

 

​I'm really retiring -- no work, no nuttin' -- on June 1, so this boat will get wet this summer.  The most aggravating problem right now is the (usual) malfunctioning trailer light, and I guess the now-usual sideways picture, so nothing I can't handle.  Look for more pics soon.

 

​--paul

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Spring for LED trailer lights and you can transfer the stock, guaranteed to burn out, break or otherwise piss you off ones, when you sell the rig. You can take a LED and toss the whole thing in the lake and it'll glow until the battery dies. I got some a while back when they still were expensive and have moved them from a couple of sold trailers now. The new buyer gets new looking lights that came with the trailer and I get to keep my, you can't kill them LED's.

 

Also consider a linkage between the boat's tiller and the outboard tiller, so you can steer with engine thrust. It's a pretty simple thing to rig up and maneuverability is greatly improved.

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On the cavitation plate, drill a hole and screw a piece of aluminum to it to hold the rudder from hitting it. I did it on my Honda and I'll do it with the Suzuki. In reverse that rudder will have a singular mind and that's to attack your propeller. If I get out sailing this weekend I'll take a picture.

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