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Core Sound 17 hull #357


Dnjost

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

progress update:  

 

Finally had a couple of free days to make some progress on the boat.  Seat framing is done, and seat side panels are ready to install.  I have improved my skills in spiling and it did not take long to get a reasonably close curve to fit.  Glory shot below.  Racing the weather with the cooler weather settling in.  May need to move on to indoor projects:  rudder, mast, mast tube.

post-2815-0-11359300-1381753133_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

The centerboard became a bit of an obsessive compulsive thing.

  •  I settled on a NACA 0006 foil shape and attached a paper template to the tip of the board.  
  • Next, I drew lines radiating out from the tip to the top keeping the ratio between the lines similar and maintaining a maximum chord about a third of the way back.  post-2815-0-92741900-1394401658_thumb.jpg
  • Then, I set the router to the depth of each line and cut a groove vertically every inch or so as dictated by the template.  
  • using a combination of electric plane and block plane, I cut the blade to the depth indicated by the grooves.  this worked very nicely.  The top of the blade where it transitions to the portion in that will sit in the trunk was done via 7" disc sander and block plane.  
  • post-2815-0-68272300-1394401634_thumb.jpgpost-2815-0-79045900-1394401646_thumb.jpg

I am pretty happy with how this came out for a first attempt.  Threw in some photos of the rudder and head stock.  Finding a flaring tool for the copper line lead was the most difficult aspect.  Apparently, no one flares copper tubing anymore! post-2815-0-14087600-1394401666_thumb.jpgpost-2815-0-55449400-1394401673_thumb.jpg

 

 

Any ideas on the proper tip shape for the CB?  Thinking of just blending it into the rest of the chord by rounding over. 

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  • 1 month later...

Question to all on taping and glassing surfaces:  

 

If I glass the whole hull with 6oz fiberglass, do I still need to put the 10 oz tape on the exterior seams?  This would seem to add a lot of extra sanding and fairing to an already very rigid structure.  The Okoume is subject to denting quite easily without some kind of protection.  

 

What weight of glass have people used on their Centerboards and rudders.  Was going to go with 10 oz, but this might be overkill.  

 

Flipping day is rapidly approaching!  

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We used one layer of tape and then 6 oz. fiberglass cloth.  The boat hasn't been of the build cradle yet so I don't know for sure, but I think if I could back up, I would go ahead with two layers of tape and then the cloth.  Those chines are sharp and vulnerable.

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David,  it might be best to use one layer of 6oz tape and then the cloth over the top....seems like the lighter tape will bend around the chine better.  Or two tapes if you want the extra protection.  We used 6oz on the blades.  Extra glass on the bottom tip of the centerboard.  

 

For tape, we sandwich wet glass between vacuum bag plastic and cut the tapes on a 45 degree angle so when you go around the corner of the chine you have double the fibers working for you.  Remove plastic on one side then you can manage the slippery mess stuck to the other plastic side to apply to hull.  6oz preferable because it makes a smoother surface than the 10oz which is course.

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David,  it might be best to use one layer of 6oz tape and then the cloth over the top....seems like the lighter tape will bend around the chine better.  Or two tapes if you want the extra protection.  We used 6oz on the blades.  Extra glass on the bottom tip of the centerboard.  

 

For tape, we sandwich wet glass between vacuum bag plastic and cut the tapes on a 45 degree angle so when you go around the corner of the chine you have double the fibers working for you.  Remove plastic on one side then you can manage the slippery mess stuck to the other plastic side to apply to hull.  6oz preferable because it makes a smoother surface than the 10oz which is course.

Phil-

I'll try not to hi jack the thread, but I don't follow, and I am at this stage of my build. What is " vacuum bag plastic" please?

Thank you

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The local hardware (or big box) store sells paint "drop cloth" plastic, which is a clear, often too thin sheeting. It's just polyethylene (and others) sheet, available in various weights, used for lots of stuff, like wrapping things, covering over windows in the winter, etc. If this type of sheet is placed over epoxy it will protect it from bugs, dust and prevent amine blush too. I don't do the technique with two sheets and cutting, sounds damn messy to me.

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I can see where the two sheets would allow for a squeegee to move the epoxy over the glass to fully saturate it prior to applying to the hull by removing the top plastic sheet, leaving the bottom plastic sheet facing out.  I did my fiberglass plywood joints this way with some success.  Was not diligent enough in getting all the bumps out, but the glass was smooth enough to fair out easily with the random orbit sander and 60 grit. 

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I just want to remind everyone that you do not have to fiberglass the whole hull.  My 'Lively' only has all seams glassed with two layers of glass and the hull painted.  She has been around since 2007 with no problems.  If you are using a high quality plywood like Okume you do not need all that extra glass absorbing epoxy and making the boat significantly heavier.

 

my 2 cents worth.

 

dale

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To clarify my post about the plastic sheets... you sandwich the cloth between the sheets to facilitate cutting the cloth on the 45...then you just use one of the sheets to transport it to the hull, then you remove the plastic.  We then put peel-ply over it to roll it out.  Peel-ply gives you a very smooth finish which reduces sanding. 

 

We put some extra layers on the outside of the cloth on the centerline of the hull for grounding protection and dragging it off the beach for the EC.  We actually only brought the cloth around the chine and up 6" then just faired, primed and painted with polyurethane.  

 

I can't take credit for a lot of the tricks I learned when building CS17 #351...our carbon shop foreman, Kenny Madeiro, a real craftsman, was responsible.  I said we only needed "workboat quality finish" for this boat but he didn't know that standard.  I had a lot of fun doing the build and credit to B & B and Epoxy for making it relatively easy....just lots of sanding.

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Dale - 

I have to put the glass at least on the bottom and up the chine a tad.  I frequent an exposed dock and have had boats damaged from the roll there if they did not have glass.  Additionally, we have rocky beaches on the north shore up through Maine.  some protection is essential.  

 

Will get to all of this when i retire from public ed in July.  

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