Dale Niemann Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 Sorry, I could not find a close up of the bow setup. The two photos are the best I can do. I guess I should explain the one where the boat is on its side. On a trip to Cayo Costa the bailer started leaking. So we tipped it up and tapped it shut. It worked fine with no leaks. I now have it and all other hardware off the boat and am re-finishing and painting. The other photo is 'Lively' aground at Cedar Key. At least it gives you a far view of the bow deck. As I think I said previously said, I got the plans for the bow roller from Graham and then fabricated it from Stainless Steel by bending everything. No welding was required. Hope this helps, dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 If you send me an email I will attach a drawing of the bow roller if you would like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Anderson Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 "I planned to use a becky on the bow eye." I was wondering what a " becky" is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jknight611 Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Hi Joe, just a 8-10 foot long line from the bow eye to a rolling hitch on the anchor rode. Saves a cleat and sometimes it helps get the anchor scope greater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted May 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 Just a fresh photo going up to show the progress so far. Still working on plans for deck hardware, and rigging. I put on a small well for the outboard to port. I had one the same size as this on another boat and loved it. I will add drain holes after the stern deck is fastened permanently and I can finish the fillet and glass of the well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted May 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 Today, it is officially a boat as the MA Environmental Police came and issued a hull number and verified that it was indeed my own homemade boat! On to the deck, combing, and rigging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecgossett Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 http://www.amazon.com/Amarine-made-Stainless-Steel-Anchor-Roller/dp/B00GVLA85Y/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1431739237&sr=8-5&keywords=anchor+roller This is the one I used, because it looked great with the bow pulpit I made. Some of the shorter and much cheap anchor rollers had bolt holes that where WAY to close to the bow, and hard to impossible access from below for nuts. This one I measured and all the holes are far enough back to easily access through the FWD hatch. I attached a photo of pulpit and what the bolt holes for that roller look like in relation to the placement of the FWD mast. I took the pin off above the roller, and because of the length have never had an issued with an anchor line jumping out, even in bad waves. Usually I use the FWD mast to tie the line off to, and up here in WA use the bow u-boat to run a clothesline anchor system through, with the anchor off my bow as a backup line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Put the spars up today after putting the bushings on. It was great to see how easy it is to step the aluminum spars. i can do this in less than 2 minutes, no exaggeration. They come out just as easily. I am not a body builder, or athletic type, but am in reasonably decent shape. Motor well is almost done as well. oversized drain holes will be filled then drilled to size to help prevent water entering the core of the transom. Small progress each day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) Good day in the boatshed. It has now been repurposed as a garage as the boat can now safely live outdoors. motor well Edited June 4, 2015 by Dnjost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul356 Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 You'll be sailing soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Aiming for the end of the month as my daughter will be back from UCLA and is promised a sail or two. to do list is getting shorter: install rub rails (parts made) install coaming (parts made) finish sprits install mast hardware make tiller extension finish rudder hardware installation. install centerboard install hardware move to trailer and register make oars. maybe purchase motor As everyone else has stated. the easy stuff is hard, and the hard stuff is often easy. On a side note: I switched over to Jamestown Distributors fast build varnish, LUST from TotalBoat. I love this stuff and it has cured a lot of the issues I was having with the varnishing. It dries to touch in an hour, and is easy to build up successive coats. So far, it's a win. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted June 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 Quick update - Painted the masts with etching primer (3 coats), WR-LP primer (three coats), WR-LPU paint (3 coats). All after a quick sanding with 200 grit. Time will tell if this works or not. Adding the coaming this week (weather permitting). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted June 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 The State took my tax dollars for items purchased out of staate, and I got a hull number MS 2015 DJ. Steambox works well, but 1/4" okoume just does not bend to really tight radius. Got to 12" curve prior to the cracking. 10" and 9" radii are at the corners for the coaming. Tomorrow, will get a bit of 1/8" and laminate the curvature. If it needs a little steaming, I am sure it will go. Last time I steamed a chunk of white oak and could tie it in a pretzel after 40 minutes of steaming. Not so with 1/4" Okoume. Any others have a similar experience??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted June 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Second attempt. Success, but now am out of okoume. wrapping the plywood in a wet towel and soaking it prior to putting in the steam box helped a lot. I left it in for about 40 minutes. Very hot when it came out, and wet. I was going to finish clear, but am having second thoughts now. Paint is much easier to apply and hides mistakes better, long term care is easier as well. forward quarter - stern quarter - test of sail slides on track - inside steam box - I moved each door in about a foot to reduce the interior space. It seemed to get hotter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 I just used a shallow pan and camp stove, towel wrapped ply then clamped up. I finished bright, 3 years in and still looks OK 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted June 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Finally got around to getting the coaming in. I am leaving it 3/4" all around for now and then will trim where I feel a need. I made it a little longer than on the plans to help serve as a little bit of a backrest. It is angled as such. A little sanding and varnish, and these will look nice. Thanks all for the help. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPower210 Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Hi David- the boat is looking fantastic! Quick question for you- I am planning on copying the well that you have built for my little Honda- did you choose to put it on the port side for any particular reason? I was thinking of the starboard side for ease of access to the controls, but do you think that would be the cause of more tangles? Looks like Alan has his mount on the port side as well- maybe I am missing something simple? Thanks. JP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Oops . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted June 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 I have always had my motor on the port side. I want the handle away from the tiller as the motor is not used to steer the boat. I am right handed and will be pulling the starter cord with my right hand. The dimensions for the well were taken from the approximate space that my 9.9 Evinrude uses when mounted on the skiff. I hope I got it right, or this will be a self draining beer cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Just a quick update of things left to do: install hardware move to trailer Was pleased the Tohatsu 3.5 fit the well I built perfectly. I will post the dimensions of the well when I get a chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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