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Core Sound 17 hull #357


Dnjost

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I first screwed the HDPE insert into the hole, but this had no problem pulling it's fasteners, so I made a new one (yes it was in a slight rabbit, just to make it clean) and I vertically grooved it, then epoxied it in place, which has held. Epoxying HDPE is a pain in the butt, though if you "carbonize" the surface and provide lots of "tooth" (the grooves thing), then you'll have much better success. If I had to do it again, I'd probably take a difference approach, maybe pin it with several dowels or make the flange much wider and screw it from below with longer fasteners (or thru bolt it). I tried to keep it "light" looking, but I needed a much bigger flange for fasteners to hold. My thwart was 1" thick, where the hole was, so I had enough meat to hold it.

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  • 1 month later...

spar sections, track, and sails arrived from B+B last week in the middle of yet another snow event.  The quality and instruction sheet was excellent.  

 

In planning on attaching the track to the spars, the options seem to be to use either stainless pop rivets, or going with nutserts, or perhaps a combination of both.  Looks like the 1/4" grip range for pop rivets will work on most sections except where the overlap is between sections and fiberglass transition ramps are, where a slightly larger range might be needed.   I would love to know how everyone else did this aspect of the building.  

 

Pray for spring. 

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David,

 Since there were multiple thicknesses in my masts ( lower section-.125" then the joins which were thicker due to the cloth/epoxy transitions, and then the upper sections which were .0625" I believe) I bought a few different lengths of SS pop rivets from McMaster-Carr. Then I "made" a simple thickness gauge out of a paper clip which I bent into an "L"shape. I then inserted it into each pre-drilled rivet hole to find the appropriate depth for riveting each hole. Seemed to work fine...

PS- If you don't already have one, buy a cheap pneumatic riveter from Harbor Freight! It will save you a lot of time and wrist pain....

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Yes.  I have already figured out that where the lower tube and second tube intersect this measures close to 1/4" with the track included.  Will check out McMaster-Carr for stainless rivets.  Jamestown Distributors has them, but I would be in over $80 for two boxes of rivets in different thickness gaps, according to their catalogue.  

 

Hansen Rivet has them as well and I will contact them for a quote.  Bet shipping is more than the rivets! There is a Harbor Freight 5 miles away from me  :)

 

Thanks.  

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David-

I wish I received instructions ....don't recall any but it would have helped. Had a few re-dos on the masts, and that was after Graham was kind enough to bore out the first two sections to fit. I made a series of mistakes including assuming I could pound in a tight fit with wetted joints, but they didn't go in far enough so had to cut and re-do. It seems to be a Trade-0ff between having a tight fit and getting them in all the way. When you dry fit them they can get stuck.

After assembled and painted, I ended up drawing a diagram of the masts with various lengths, widths and " buries" I think it is called.

I decided I needed three different SS rivets and bought them from McMaster.

I will be glad to loan you my $80 Northern Air riveter. Probably a one time use type thing for me but I can send it to you for a month if you like. Text me your address. At 239-273-2234. I used Tef-gel and received an extra container from Amazon I can send you. No sense both of us wasting our money. Once you get it going with the rivet Gun and right compressor the rivets go real fast and smooth. I attempted a few at the wrong angle, they didn't ho in all the way,drilled them out and re did them but once properly angled it was easy.

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Lennie

 

Everyone has had to struggle at times during a build. It sounds like you have had more than your share. Your persistence and your attitude that comes across in your posts is admirable. The last few weeks can be busy and unforeseen tasks can keep popping up, but here is wishing you smooth sailing.

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Thanks for the kind offer, but I think I am set unless you have spare rivets! 

 

the mast and mizzen sections that I got from B+B come with the lower sections reamed.  In addition, he has set in nutserts in both spar sections for the snotter attachment.  Plastic end caps are included as well.  I was delighted when I noticed that my sails had sail slides attached already.  

 

The pop rivet tool I have will work on the 5/32 rivets.  I am just balking at purchasing the three sizes needed as this will run around $80 if I calculated it correctly.  I also have a tube of boshield around someplace that I used when assembling a spar a long time ago.  that spar is still going strong with little corrosion between the stainless and aluminum.  

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I drilled and used a tap to cut threads into the mast sections where they were doubled. I think I was doing that to attach hardware, but you could also attach the track with screws where the mast sections are too thick for rivets. Have you tried sourcing your rivets someplace other than Jamestown. They have good prices on hardware but usually sell only large quantities. I suspect Defender.com might have smaller quantities of ss rivets at a reasonable price.  BoltDepot.com also seems to have rivets in small quantities. I have had good luck with them and I think they are in Mass.

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I don't have the paperwork handy but would guess I spent $35 on the rivets. The amount I have left is not worth the time or price to ship.

At Bills suggestion, I bought an extra sail track slide or two from West Marine for about $6.00 or 8 and it was handy to test the alignment of the tracks without attempting to get the sails out.

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Defender seems to be the best bet locally.  they carry the 5/32 size in a few grip ranges.  I like the idea of tapping the overlapping sections for threads.  If the threads fail in the future, that would be the place to go with a nutsert.  

 

The good news is that it has warmed sufficiently to work in the garage again.  Mizzen step is aligned, and floorboard supports for seating deck have been installed.  Not much else to do until it is epoxy season.  

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally had some decent weather to do some work on the boat.  Mizzen step and Mast step are in, and worked on the alternate mizzen step today, as well as oarlock blocking.  I know I was planning on omitting the alternate step, but it provides a place to put the mizzen when camping, and may make the center thwart usable for rowing.  In any event, it opens up some options and putting the holes in for it was very easy after doing the mizzen and mast step tubes.  post-2815-0-50231800-1427662464_thumb.jpgpost-2815-0-60827200-1427662465_thumb.jpgpost-2815-0-60649000-1427662467_thumb.jpgpost-2815-0-62949800-1427662468_thumb.jpgpost-2815-0-62653400-1427662472_thumb.jpgpost-2815-0-67585300-1427662471_thumb.jpgpost-2815-0-66198200-1427662470_thumb.jpgpost-2815-0-62949800-1427662468_thumb.jpg

 

post-2815-0-85804000-1428090587_thumb.jpgpost-2815-0-74791300-1428090588_thumb.jpgpost-2815-0-61374500-1428090589_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

I can't believe I am almost to the point of putting the decking on.  Prior to this however, I want to plan how to reinforce the deck fittings up in the bow as these areas will be difficult to access one all is glued.  

 

How many people put dock cleats / spring line cleats on?  I am not sure if I want an open base cleat up on the bow where lines can get hung up on it.  Perhaps a U bolt.  

 

David

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As far as reinforcement I was encouraged not to worry about doing it prior to installing deck as most areas are reachable from hatches etc.. I found it to be mostly a non issue, and with the hardware in center of boat you already have enough reinforcement. However, my toe rails presented a challenge as far as back plates. I put toerails out from edge 1" for a couple reasons ( appearance for one and two to get access to the back plate and get beyond the inwales for that purpose).

Well I was too close to the inwales and had some challenges getting the nuts and washers on the screws. All worked out and the angle of the holes I drilled became important but it wasn't fun. If I were to do it again David I would glue a parallel inwale onto the inwales maybe only 1/2" or 3/4" wide for length of toe rails, and then position them 3/4" from edge.

Hope that makes sense

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I have a bronze Hershoff (sp) cleat between the bow and the mast and it does not interfere with anything.  I have had no problems with it.  However, I do not have any I think they are called chocks for the the dock lines which are usually placed on both sides of the bow.  I fabricated the SS bowroller that Graham designed and it has performed very well for anchoring or using the anchoring on beaches.

 

dale

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Dale - 

 

That is enormously helpful.  Precisely what I was thinking.  If I put the cleat right up in the bow, will need to pre-drill, and mount the nuts below prior to putting the deck on.  My other option would be the u bolt between the mast and hatch, with some bow chocks port and startboard.  Since the mainsheet is so far away, I may just go with a traditional open base cleat here as newbies would be able to tie off the anchor when needed using figure eights. 

 

David

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