mattp Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Thanks guys. Did you/are you adding a plywood shelf in the foreward compartment aft of the mast? I had never considered it but I went to a class with Graham last Thursday night and one of his students was doing that and it looked nice. It would be to lay the anchor on and built so that with the correct angle you could just barely remove it from the hatch to access bottom. Nice idea but I prefer to sail in this lifetime, and my leftover ply supply is low. I saw a picture of this idea and for a very brief moment considered it. I decided to skip it in favor of getting on the water sooner. Of the 6 or 7 days I have sailed this boat so far, I have yet to even use the forward compartment. In fact is is still partially full of wood shavings and dust from completing the decks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 A little help please. I am getting ready to install the mast steps. Am I clear on the concept that after using 1" rails on the CB trunk, I now need to cut away a bout 1/2" of the rail in the way of the mizzen mast and 3rd mast hole to get proper clearance. I want to get this done prior to gluing the seating in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Yes David, exactly. I had the same question and you are right. As I recall, the first step is to cut the hole in the thwart per plan suggestions, then you know how much of the top of the trunk you need to take off, and the third step is to position the mast step according to rake and plumb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Hmm. I was thinking that I would do this" 1. locate the base of the mast position 2. Measure up 3 degrees or 1:20" to the thwart or deck levels and mark the upper position aft of the keel batten. 3. Cut the holes for the mast tubes. (decided to go this way) I am not sure that the 1" or so forward for the mizzen will make that much difference, but others may chime in here. Balance is maintained by the board position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 I guess there are many ways to skin a cat but I can tell you unequivocally that for me moving the mast step to its correct position was simple versus trying to do the opposite. Alan had a video on this I believe which you may want to check out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 I did find the video That is much easier than what I had planned. He uses the thwart as the location and moves the base forward to get the 3 degree tilt. The use of a 1" block taped 20" up, combined with a level works very well. will employ this method for the mizzen and alternate step. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 I reviewed the plans again this morning and now see that the center of the mizzen is located at the center thwart and not the keel batten as I thought. Alan's method is perfect as I did a dry run with a level. and " block of wood attached 20" above the anticipated point of entry for the alternate mast step and mizzen step. Will hold off buying the hole saw until I get the tubes built, so as to get the correct size (thinking 2 3/4"). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 David- This was one of my most dreaded aspects of the build, and like many dreaded processes, it was a piece of cake as Alan layed it out. I have found the easy aspects like painting were hard and the hard aspects like mast steps were easy. Go figure. I was not particularly confident of my drilling angle and wisely drilled a 2 1/2 inch hole, then made it larger with a nice rounded rasp, at the right angle etc until it was large enough and it worked very well. I rather grind out manually the last 1/4" than have to drill perfect, with my drilling skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted December 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Realized I had not posted in a long time. In short, it is too cold up here in Massachusetts to work with epoxy so have focused on small parts that can be done inside, and doing rough layout of decks, hatches, etc. While progress is slow, it is not impossible and the time has allowed me to step back and admire (or complain). Some recent photos: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Here is another pondering that you all can weigh in on. My mast tubes measure 2.803" in diameter. Therefore, a 2 7/8" hole saw would cut the appropriate sized hole (I think), however these are not to be found at my local stores. Only 3" available. Did anyone else use the 3" saw? i am thinking it will be easier to align the rig if I don't have too big a hole to fiddle around with. FYI - making mast tubes is fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 David- I don't want to be redundant but I cut smaller and MicroPlaned it larger and it was a breeze. I love my "Japanese MicroPlane" (rasp) This is like getting golf swing advice from a 18 handicapper I know. Go Pats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Use a router guide and bearing, to cut the hole in the thwart. I personally cut a 3.25" hole and used a HDPE insert, so the hole was the right diameter and would easily rotate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Thanks guys. I am off to get one of these this morning for my router. template router bit Will make a template first out of plywood, and stick it on with double sided tape over the holes. Paul, I am going with frp mast tubes for both main and mizzen, so will skip the hdpe inserts as I think that the masts should be able to rotate in the tubes with hpde on the heels. "In Brady we trust." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 What about Forstner bits? I have a set 1/4"-3" in 1/8" intervals. Clamp a scap piece to the bottom of the thwart to avoid blow out as the bit exits. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Please don't take this as a challenge to the expert advice above but as I approached this task I was concerned with getting a round clean hole in the right place and size, but also it having the 3 degree rake. I could see getting the rake with a forstner bit and drill press. PAR how do you get the rake with the router bit w bearing and template, or do you not worry about it. I know that hand free styling shapes etc is generally the least greatest was to make the right cuts and shapes and angles...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 David, I used a HDPE disk on the heel on the mast to also assist rotation. I did bore the 3.25" hole at the appropriate angle, but I also radiused the inboard edges a bit too. I did this by drilling a 3.25" hole through a block of cedar (what was available), then I cut the bottom of this block on the table saw at 3 degrees. Mast rake was handled by eye once the boat was near complete. I simply placed the mast in through the thwart, on the step, then stood back and eyeballed it against the main. The step was adjusted a tad to get it right, then glued in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 I did find a 2 7/8" Forstner bit and played with it in the basement. It looks as if the clearance around the mast tube will be enough to allow for a 3 degree angle (1:20) after I drill the main hole with a little sanding on the lower and upper edges. I have made a template to place over the hole to help guide the forstner bit as the first few mm have a tendency to wander a little as the bit wobbles. The photo shows a 2 7/8" hole made with a Forstner bit into a small piece of 3/8" plywood. A small chunk of mast ring is sitting in the hole. Looks good. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Niemann Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Paul, Do you have a photo of Mizzen mast hole with the HDPE. I think I will re-do that on 'Lively' as I paint varnish, etc. Which I have been procrastinating on because I hate maintenance of any kind. thanks, dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Thwart before HDPE ring is fitted . . . then shown fitted, with a length of tubing to check for fit . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 A quick thank you to all who assisted here. Holes were a breeze with the Forstner bit. I have decided not to do the alternate mast step as I don't want a hole in the deck or cockpit seats. Reefing will handle any issues. If it's too bad, will go home or wait it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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