Core Sound 17 hull #357

[LennieG]

David-

it looks great

keep the ice cream cones and " Jimmy's " away from it for a couple hours.

Your color reminds me of another post on here recently with red, white and blue.....looking good!

i find that the instructions on the can sometimes are different than their website application instructions, and then if you speak to their technical reps they tell you the real truth, all of which keeps you guessing ....somewhere in the middle seems to work. Having used system three LPU, I would agree that thinning helps...I see no downside even though it feels thin going on.....it levels better in my opinion.

[Dnjost]

Agreed, thinner is better.  Applying it in the rain with the garage door open also helps in addition to using a foam brush rather than a bristle.  (a nod and Thank You to PAR and DocPal).  I actually closed the garage, locked it, shut the lights out just to keep me from sticking a finger in it.  

 

David

[PAR]

If you elect to buff (you can with this stuff) don't get aggressive on the cutting. If you need to knock down brush strokes, this is best done with paper on a long board (wet 400 at most). This will make the paint thin in areas, so make sure you have enough on the surface to tolerate removal of 3 - 4 mils (one whole coat). This means a minimum of 3 coats, preferably 4. Most folks are happy just with a good polish, as it makes the surface purrrtty, which is all we want. Only us anal boat builder types can see the brush marks through the gloss.

[Dnjost]

I do have 4 coats on, forgot to mention that.  But, will take your advice on going easy with the buffer.  I am really trying to do a nice job.  Finishing has always been a challenge for me and have settled for "workboat" finish in the past.  I think it would be a shame to have great looking blades, but a rough hull.  

 

Was planning of wet sanding with 600 grit prior to buffing.  Am I correct in this thinking?  Never done this before. 

[PAR]

600 grit is awfully fine, if any healthy brush strokes need to be knocked down. When it comes time to polish a surface it should be pretty darn good in the first place. Brush strokes are still part of the smoothing stage of finish work and are easier to longboard down. No sense making a career out of it, so I start with light 320 if really rough or 360 if it needs a lighter touch, which identifies the offending areas. I do this wet, then move to 400, also wet, still just refining the surface highs. If you knock it down pretty close with the 400, move to 600, then 800. If it still has some marks, progress through 500, 600 then 800. By the time you hit 600 grit, it should be really smooth and no brush strokes are visible. If they are, you need to go back and knock them down. This is why I do the initial "blocking" wet, as you can see the surface defects much easier because of the gloss. Simply put, don't go past 500, unless you've removed the brush strokes. Generally you can do this with 360, but some like to move on up. I personally just get it with the rougher grits, then skip to 600. At this point it's polishing time. It's more technique than grit. If your "smoothing" a surface you're just trying to knock down the highs, which is why it's a longboard job, so you can bridge the lows. Smoothing is surface prep at a very fine level with progressively finer grits (600 and up).

[Dnjost]

photo outside in the sun.  From 4 feet away it looks awesome, next to wet sand as described in Paul's post.  Have to admit the System III LPU is pretty slick stuff once you get used to it. Will start in an inconspicous spot such as the bottom adjacent the keel.  

 

[mattp]

Wow!

[PAR]

Those brush strokes look moderately deep, so you might have some success, knocking them down with a buffer and cutting compound first, then move on to a polish. You might want to look into the 3M Perfect-It paint finishing system. It replaces the compounds with abrasive pads and a final polish goo. Basically using a buffer, you knock down the surface with progressivly finer grits, then use the finishing polish (I think it's actually a glaze). These pads tend to not follow the surface as much as a buffer wool, so only the highs come off at first, which is ideal fro brush marks. Of course, you have to be careful what you wish for, as the finely finished surface will show every fairing imperfection, as well as having removed the brush strokes. This is especially true of darker colors, like yours.

[Dnjost]

Thanks Paul,  I am now acutely aware of every dip and bump on every surface.  On previous boats, this never bothered me as I always used Kirby's semi-gloss oil.  The high gloss of the LPU really makes these stand out.  But, the brush marks bother me more.  Will look into the 3M system!  

 

I think my plan is to polish the bottom panels,  flip, finish the interior, then polish the sides.  This way, I can deal with the inevitable bumps and scratches caused from working in a confined space.  Have 400 and 600 grit wet/dry at the ready and will do a little alongside the keel to start.  

[PAR]

400 and 600 will knock down the brush strokes fast, but be careful, as you can burn through the paint pretty easily, which is why I suggest a long board. Going by hand, you'll see each stroke getting lowered and can stop before you burn through the top coat. If you still have top coat left after the 600 grit, move onto polish and see how it works out. Work lightly, as you can always go back and sand it some more, but if you get aggressive, you'll need more paint.

[Dnjost]

Did a test spot on the bottom alongside the keel.  Salient points above well noted.  The long board removes the brush marks quickly.  I went quickly to 600, then up through 1500, compound, then compound and polish. The area at first seemed lighter in color than the surrounding untouched paint, then realized I needed to buff it more.  The more it is buffed and polished, the better it gets.  I am hopeful this will be acceptable when done.  Photos below show the area on the bottom near the cb slot having been done in a 2' square area.  Other photo shows halos (micro scratches) that need further attention.  

 

 

 

Close up of polished area.  micro scratches need more buffing, but I don't want to over do it.  

 

 

 

Overhead beam and window reflect well off the polished surface, but the chair is still wavy due to brush strokes not wet sanded. 

 

 

[PAR]

Big improvement, though more time with the long board and fine wet paper, before moving to the buffing stage. It's good you're "sneaking" up on it as you're less likely to burn through. You can always go back and do it again. 99% of folks would be more than satisfied with this finish, once the swirl marks are polished out, so don't make a career out of it. Don't forget a good wax once you've got her buffed up nice.

[Dnjost]

Paul,

I appreciate the coaching.  I am a novice at this fine furniture finishing stuff.  Will do the tables in the living room next.  

[Dnjost]

Regret I could not get to the Messabout.  But, significant progress has been made. with the bilge painted and the deck framing completed, as well as king planks.  Looks like a boat now.  

 

 

[LennieG]

It looks very nice! Love your finish and the blue paint.

Question: is there some advantage to painting the foreward storage/ anchor hatch/ compartment? Been planning to skip that just because it would save time. What am I misisng?

[Dnjost]

I asked myself the same question, but figured that it would be easier to see the dirt and grime on the white paint.  I used Interlux Bilgecoat for these areas.  Wow, does this stuff smell to high heavens.  The whole house stinks as well even with the garage not really being attached!  The Bilgecoat is supposedly good to use on areas that may get oil/gasoline on them.  Anyways, it was way cheaper than the Waterbased LPU is used on the exterior.  But, not a low VOC paint.  

 

Prior to painting, I did sand out the sharp edges of epoxy so that no hands will get hurt or gear damaged moving around in the lockers.  

[Dale Niemann]

I did not paint anything that is sealed from water and sun.  Painting it just adds weight and extra work in my opinion.

dale

[LennieG]

Thanks guys. Did you/are you adding a plywood shelf in the foreward compartment aft of the mast? I had never considered it but I went to a class with Graham last Thursday night and one of his students was doing that and it looked nice. It would be to lay the anchor on and built so that with the correct angle you could just barely remove it from the hatch to access bottom.

Nice idea but I prefer to sail in this lifetime, and my leftover ply supply is low.

[Dnjost]

Lennie - 

 

I might add one at some point, my goal at present is to go sailing next summer.  

[mcdermitt]

LennieG
I am going to paint every thing inside the boat  after a couple three coats of epoxy  In fact I have coated all the deck pieces on the under side a long time ago I just set them out mixed some stuff and rolled them  I have taken all the braces  knees and done them all the pieces that fit on the bow that support the deck or forward mast.  When I had long strips of glass to wet in the hull I took a plastic box lid and wet them in it put in boat and pulled it out as I put it on inside hull
You get done before summer. 
McDermitt