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Fishman38

fishman38 OK20

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Been some time since logging on.  Lot of catch up on home maintenance to do this summer and not a lot of boat work could be done.  Most of what was done, a lot of sanding, shaping, and other minutia needed before installing the carlin stringers, didn't show up in pictures, so didn't get posted.  Here are a few that do show some progress.  The lower carlin stringer was glued in place today. 

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Would anyone care to share any secrets aside from brute force for getting the carlin stringers to follow the compound curve of the gunnel/sheer clamp?  I laminated the 1 x 1 inch stock to approximate the curve in the horizontal plane.  That doesn't help fitting to the curve in the vertical plane however.  I'm going to try soaking, maybe steaming which I don't like because of the drying time required to get the epoxy to adhere.  Also don't know how well steaming works on laminated stock....... Especially the top stringer must closely match the gunnel curve(s) in order to preserve the "look".  I would appreciate any suggestions.

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I may not understand your question.  I used solid stock for the stringers and just beveled them with a plane in the areas that required it.

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Hey Miyot, good to hear from you.  I may be doing this all wrong.  For one thing the plans show the carlin stringers butting directly into frame #2.  I wanted this to be a smooth continuous curve, meaning the stringers had to be one piece roughly 36 maybe 37 feet long.  That's why I laminated it, to get the length I needed as well as to be able to make the 180 deg curve at the bow.  Problem is if you look at the profile there is a curve in the vertical plane as well and it gets rather steep, actually discontinuous 15 inches forward of #7 frame (probably closer to 20 inches or more on your boat).  I actually made that a gentler, smoother curve than the plan shows, but it is still difficult get that part of the stringer to make that part of the curve and match the sheer clamp so that the side deck has the smooth downward slope to the sheer.  It's almost as hard to explain as it is to do, especially as I'm not sure I'm using the correct terminology.  Anyway, it seemed like a good idea to do it this way at the time.  It may turn out to be not so much so, although I don't see how solid stock could be much easier to do than laminated.  Seems to me what really is needed to solve this particular problem is about four more frames spaced 8 or 10 inches apart :).  If all else fails I can start over and do it as the plan is drawn.

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A few more pictures that may help.post-2179-0-86231000-1440731738_thumb.jpgpost-2179-0-59020500-1440731753_thumb.jpgpost-2179-0-32801100-1440731771_thumb.jpgpost-2179-0-90384900-1440731786_thumb.jpg

 

The curve(s) I'm trying to deal with are actually S curves but aft of #7 frame it should straighten out and run parallel to the deck to #8 frame.  The wet rags seem to be helping and when I can get back to it I think maybe I can straighten both out with supports placed between the stringers and the deck and maybe when dry the'll remain straight.  The "sag" in the lower stringer is not a big deal but the top one is.  BTW the stringer is not yet glued at #6,7 and 8.

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Here is how I like to join the carlin's. I start with the lower green carlin. The red one is bent into place, overlapping the green one, mark with pencil and cut off to line. The upper green comes through and is trimmed to fit into the lower red one. The upper red one comes down and is marked and trimmed to fit into the upper red carlin. After you are satisfied with the positioning and fit you can glue it all together.

 

This gives you a multi scarf with lots of gluing surface. It also has the advantage the butt joint of the plywood coaming is not on the same line as the carlin joints. I still put a ply butt block between the upper and lower carlins to back up the butt joint on the ply coaming.

 

The drawing is not from the OK 20 but from a new design called the OK 256. It has a steeper angle at the break of the sheer. It is however the same method, you will have longer scarfs on the carlins.

 

 

 

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Not sure but I think I see daylight ahead.  Had some issues with getting the carlins fitted properly but with Graham's help it seems to have turned out ok.  Also had to take another break to get some home maintenance taken care of.  Here's a few of the most recent pictures.  Still have hopes of launching before freeze-up. 

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Finally about done with the build.  A few more details but mostly rigging for both the boat and the motor.  Motor needs a prop for one thing. :)  Also install the T-top.  Had her over to the welding shop today to add a couple of feet to trailer tongue. Oh, bump rails will also be added and painted gray to break up the vast expanse of white. Here's a couple of shots to show the look. 

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Finally about done with the build.  A few more details but mostly rigging for both the boat and the motor.  Motor needs a prop for one thing. :)  Also install the T-top.  Had her over to the welding shop today to add a couple of feet to trailer tongue. Oh, bump rails will also be added and painted gray to break up the vast expanse of white. Here's a few shots to show the look.  Except for a shot or two after installing the T-top, this will probably be the last until spring when I can get some pics on the water and comment on how she performs.

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