sscoville Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 I'm interested in re-rigging my BRS and am trying to locate a photo of Tom's Lapwing showing the rigging. It's not his wishbone sprits I'm interested in, just the running rigging. Can anyone help or post photos of their own cat ketch rigging? I currently have my boat rigged with what I think is Graham's specs for the BRS and CS series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Garland Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Hi Sam, I just finished rigging my Core Sound 17 with wishbone booms: what rigging details are you looking for? I will see if I have some photos that might help. Send me an email and I will send pics. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 My guess is he is looking for the details on the sheets. Tom uses swivel block/cleats on the thwart instead of dual cleats on the side decks. I tried again finding his posts using the search function, no luck. Not sure why it is so hard to search for stuff now, but I can't seem to find anything any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sscoville Posted January 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Yes, it is the sheet rigging I'm looking for. Tom told me about it at the Wooden Boat Show in Georgetown last year but it was not completely clear to me. I tried to search and found nothing either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter HK Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 I presume you are interested in the mizzen sheet as basically everyone sheets the main as per plans. I'll attach a few photos re the mizzen sheet. Essentially it starts at the end of the boom, goes through a block on a little rope traveller, back to the end of the boom, along the boom via a fairlead to a block on the mast and then down to a fitting on the thwart with a cleat. You can see the 2 cleats for the main and the single cleat aft for the mizzen in the building photo. HTH Cheers Peter HK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sscoville Posted January 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Thanks Peter. That's what I was looking for and I think it's the same setup Tom uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecgossett Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hey guys if you use the search site function on google you can find stuff.. For some reason anything older then about a year on here is not pulling up via internal search;. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Vacanti Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 About a year ago this site almost shutdown. I think that Frank was able to save it by archiving much of the old content which might explain why a search doesn't find anything older than a year or so. Here is the old post where Frank explained this, http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/8166-forum-changes/. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 I came up with the same solution for a CS-17 and made my own swivel, standup/cam cleat blocks too, just like Tom. We both did it independantly and it seems a logical approuch. Most sailboats develop a rigging personality, suited to the owners tastes, needs and thoughts on how things should be done. Unless rigged at a factory, none are the same and this is how it should be. You'll move things, re-rig things and make adjustements as you get time on her, so don't get to married with anything until you have some miles under the keel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lathrop Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Sam, Peter's photo pretty much captures it. The forward two swivel cleats are for the main. I also use a small fairlead about halfway up the mizzen sprit to keep the sheet out of the way. The turning block for the mizzen sheet should be placed a couple inches below the snotter for the best lead, not where it is in the photo. It worked OK with a straight sprit but tended to pull a wishboom down and distort the sail. The photo show a single part sheet on the end of the sprit that was tried at first. Needed too much force and was changed to a double purchase like Peter relates. Cross posted with Paul. Great minds think alike..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sscoville Posted January 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Great, thanks. I also need to invest in one of those fancy tiller extensions. My dowel works ok, but I think the retractable/adjustable type might be worth the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lathrop Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Great, thanks. I also need to invest in one of those fancy tiller extensions. My dowel works ok, but I think the retractable/adjustable type might be worth the money. Especially for single handing. An adjustable tiller extension and these swivel cleats on both sheets allows you to sit anywhere to balance the boat. The shock cord on the tiller has too purposes. On my boat, it holds the tiller and rudder on the boat. That is another story. The second purpose is that it tends to draw the tiller back to center if you let go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sscoville Posted February 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 How do y'all have your centerboards' uphaul/downhaul rigged? I'm thinking of re-rigging that too. It's too difficult to pull up or down now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lathrop Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 How do y'all have your centerboards' uphaul/downhaul rigged? I'm thinking of re-rigging that too. It's too difficult to pull up or down now. After messing with the hauldown line with shock cord longer than I wanted to, I added some lead to the CB to sink it. Really like the easier handling of the CB with only one line on it. Up haul is just like the plans called for. I do tie the uphaul line around the thwart when trailering for security. Up haul line is cleated under the thwart where it is available alongside the mizzen mast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom151 Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Hi Sam, I just finished rigging my Core Sound 17 with wishbone booms: what rigging details are you looking for? I will see if I have some photos that might help. Send me an email and I will send pics. PhilPhilVery interested in wishbones for these designs - if you have any pics of the construction and/or rigging of the wishbones available anywhere, would you please share a link.ThanksTomHPS - being up the road from you (Salem, MA) I would jump at the chance to give you a hand someday soon just to get the chance to see the booms first hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Garland Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Hi Tom, I cheated....I found windsurfing booms that fit the Core Sound 17 perfectly! They came from Chinook Sailing Products on the west coast, Cascade Locks. Oregon. They make all types of windsurfing gear. I couldn't build them for the price. They are aluminum and adjustable length so a little heavy at 9 pounds ea. I do have them hung by topping lifts so they are suspended and sail drops into the lazy jacks rigged under the booms so it is all pretty neat and tidy. I am doing the Everglades Challenge in March so the boat is in Florida now but will be back in May at which time you would be welcome to visit and see. I will say that for a quick launch and sail the sprits would be much easier to rig quickly. My partner in the EC is a sailmaker and provided high tech sails...he did not want their shape distorted by the sprits. Send me an email at p dot garland at hallspars.com and I will send some pictures. Cheers, Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Presumably these are the bones Phil was referring to? http://www.chinooksailing.com/products/index.php?cPath=1_82 As near as I have been able to determine, if you are going to build 'bones vs. sprits, this is the shape to go for. The two sides are straight, more or less, from clew to about even with or slightly forward of the mast, to avoid flexing when they are under strain. Flexing being a bad thing, as would happen in a gust. Flexing would allow more draft in the sail when you would prefer the mast to bend and flatten the sail. Rather than curving the two sides together at the snotter end, they stay straight and end in a wider head board. Phil......how do you propose to reef the sails with bones of this type? Reefing hook for the clew end or a jiffy reefing type setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecgossett Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Duckworks sells a nifty block/cleat combo that you could setup off the end of the boom. All you would have to do is reach up and pull down end. Then run two lines aft for down-hauls for reefing. With some creative installation of rope underneath boom to catch loose sail, the system will be pretty automatic. Any other arrangement will require running line through the curved boom, and that is tricky and also does some compression loading on it that you may not want. After talking to Allen in depth about how he has seen various B&B boats rigged and his own, simply have a cleat on end of the boom seems the easiest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Garland Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 The reef lines are rigged just like jiffy reefing on a standard boom. I dead end reef line at aft end of boom...up thru the clew reef cringle then back thru a ferrule/thimble that is lashed with dyneema single braid at the aft end then forward to a clam cleat on the wishboom. Works very well . The ferrule takes the place of a block...k.i.s.s. Forward end I just switch cunningham purchase with hook to the tack reef cringle. The Chinook booms have an outhaul purchase built into the end that allows different lashing options..also has built in clam cleat. There is a neat clam cleat that is made to attach to windsurfer booms...it has a nylon/plastic strap that clamps around the boom so you don't need to drill and tap...also allows you to fine tune where you mount it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sscoville Posted February 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Any recommendations on which model of swivel cleats to use? I have 1/2" sheets now. I've been looking at the Ronstan and Harken cleats. It looks like I can save a little money by replacing my sheets with a 3/8" line and thus be able to use the small cleats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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