Chick Ludwig Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 I agree with Scott and Maligno. This is how I built the trunk on my P-22 and on Summer Breeze. I ground a bit of taper on the bottom of the trunk before glassing it so that when I glassed from the bottom over into the trunk, it would not interfere with the board. I also added an extra strip of glass over the joint so it would be double thickness. Same idea, slightly different approach. The "big deal" is to have a solid, water tight joint. This is an area with a lot of stress that can open up and allow water to enter if it is not strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maligno Posted September 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 I glassed the inside of the CB box because of my experience with my centerboard daysailers. Tiny pebbles would sometimes get lodged between the board and the box walls when the boat is beached and getting them out can scratch up the box. The glass will give additional protection should this happen. Painting is indeed not needed but it does brighten up the inside making it easy to see if anything goes wrong. This is also the reason I paint the inside the storage compartments. Also makes them easier to keep clean. Scott and Chick: Yes I left a two-inch margin at the bottom for glassing over the joints of the slot when I do the bottom. The port half of the box installed. As it turned out it was easy to attach that side first so I can figure out how to mount the hardware for the CB control line before the starboard side is glued. Starboard side fitted: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Watson Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Great pictures, brilliant post, Rolando! Thank you so much for your account of the building process. This is most encouraging -- I bought the plans recently and you make them come alive. Q: do you mark the CB slot location from the inside at this point? Looking forward to the next installment of the story, Lynn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maligno Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Thanks and yes, I drilled holes big enough to fit the jigsaw blade as markers where the slot will be. They are now covered with bits of masking tape so the glue will not leak out to the floor. The slot will be rough cut with a jigsaw, trimmed with a flush-cutting router bit, then finished off with a 1/4 in. round-over in preparation for glassing. Two of the holes if you can make them out in this photo: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkisting Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Looks like very nice work. Fun to watch it coming together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maligno Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 'Ey Wes, I can do no less. You set the bar so high for us English majors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maligno Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 V-berth filler dry-fit. Wooden latches will keep it in place: Underside of filler will be storage with cover, a la Wes' map case in his CS20: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maligno Posted September 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 DIYed the double block for the centerboard box kingpost. By eliminating the linkages needed to mount a production block, I should get a couple of inches of additional distance between the blocks in the close confines of the centerboard box. Turning sheave grooves: Used a dado router bit on the drill press with a sliding jaws clamp to mill the spacers: Positioning the double block in the CB box: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maligno Posted October 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Centerboard pennant aft sheaves are encased in a box rather than the pvc pipe specified in the plans: Cover can be removed for servicing: Pennant exits to the cockpit: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Votaw Posted October 22, 2013 Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 On my Princess 22 we just put some backer stops to hold the hatch covers on the berth hatches from falling through, and cut round finger holes to pull them up by. The cushions hold them down. Worked perfectly for nine years, so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted October 22, 2013 Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 Rolando: CB trunk coming together nicely. I like the box replacement for the PVC pipe at the aft end. I had planned to use the PVC pipe, but terminate it inside some type of box like this at the top opening through the bulkhead, as there needs to be a way for any water that drains in from the cockpit to positively drain out through the CB trunk and not into the cabin of the boat. Not only does your design do this, but it does open it up for access when the time comes to replace the lifting pennant. The berth hatches on my existing boat are done the way Travis describes. There is a backing flange behind the opening that is flush to the bottom surface of the berth. The cutout simply rests on this with no latch to hold it down. Thumb hole to lift it, and the cushions hold it down. They have never moved. If you don't have the scrap pieces to make the flange underneath, you could laminate them from two pieces of thinner plywood (say 3/16). Make the cutout on the bottom piece about an inch or so smaller than the top. Save both cutouts and laminate them together for your cover. That might work if your opening is not too large as any weight on it will rest on the thinner flange around the perimeter of the opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maligno Posted October 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 Thanks all. And yes there's a flange to support the berth hatch cutout. Maybe I'm just too cautious for wanting to have latches on the hatches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted October 22, 2013 Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 Maybe I'm just too cautious for wanting to have latches on the hatches. A lot depends on what you are using the boat for. Virtually all offshore races require all entries pass an inspection that calls for all drawers, compartments and such to have positive latching of some sort. This prevents objects from becoming projectiles in case of a knock down. Many consider this over-kill for coastal cruising boats. You are the one who has to feel safe in your boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maligno Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Cockpit sides glued: Sole frames dry-fitted. Flotation under the sole will be PET bottles. Pattern for sole spiled with scrap ply and cardboard: Dry-fitting cockpit sole and seat tops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maligno Posted November 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 Stem log and knee is glued in: Checking fit of outboard with sole and seat tops . Motor tilted: Motor down: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Watson Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Nice snug installation, should work well up or down. Will the gas tank be aft with the motor or under the cockpit seat? Thanks for the pix, they're going in the good ideas folder. Lynn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maligno Posted November 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 While I haven't decided yet where the gas tank will go, it will most likely be in a vented section under the starboard seat to lessen weight at the tail. The happy thing about this motor is it has an integrated tank which should sufficient for most uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maligno Posted November 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 Single-handed, it took two days to flip the Belhaven: one day to rig and another day to manhandle the hull and set up additional rigging. I devised the "rotisserie" spin when I built my Stevenson Weekender and there was no reason to believe it wouldn't work here. The coming of super typhoon Haiyan (370 kph gusts! 199 knots!) added urgency to the operation. Half-inch diameter lag bolts were driven into the bow and transom with over-sized washers to act as pivots: A chain block attached to a strap wrapped around the hull did the heavy lifting, one end at a time. Multi-part flipping tackles were needed for the control and brake lines because I miscalculated the hull's center of gravity--there was too much weight below the pivots. The bolts will have to be moved lower when the hull is flipped upright: Starting the flip: Synchronizing the flip and brake lines: Done: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 Great progress and beautiful work. Here is wishing you the best through the storm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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