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Miyot

Ocracoke 24

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CarolinaFlare, the strong back is 24' 3 5/8" long and the boats beam is 8' 6".  The strong back is about 4' 7" wide.  The transom does not extend past the strong back.  My boat extended about an inch or so past the forward end of the strong back.

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Hightech, where you at?  Whats going on with your build.  I am back in the saddle and have begun glassing the inside.  I didn't work on the boat for 3 weeks.  I tried to but just couldn't bring myself to do a thing.  I was totally burned out.  Well a year of boat construction is behind me now.  I'm feeling pretty good about working on the boat again and some excitement has returned.  Man there's a lot of work in a boat.  I'll get some pics up when I make some headway.  Ordered my trim tabs, bilge pump, etc.  I got 80 board feet of Mahogany, pretty stuff.  Anyhow I'm pushing on.

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Good to know the burn-out didn't last long!  My problem so far has been football games,watching them of course,

getting in the way on the weekends.

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Good to know the burn-out didn't last long!  My problem so far has been football games,watching them of course,

getting in the way on the weekends.

Well a plus for me is i'm not a sports fan.  The last year I haven't done anything but work on the boat.  I will ski a little this winter.  Id like to finish the boat in May, but there is a lot to do.  Keep the pics coming.  It is looking good.

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Hello Miyot I also needed to take a break. My boat is all glassed and post cured. I will add the fairing compound this weekend and then sand sand sand. I am a sports fan but have a TV in the shop. Hope to be flipped by Thanksgiving. Usually slows down for me between Thanksgiving and Xmas. I will try to get as much done as I can. January things get busy again and so it goes. My build looks the same because you can see through the glass. I too am trying to finish by May. but as you say LOTS to do.

PG

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Starting to make some way.  I started out slow, but I'm starting to get a rhythm.  Glassing the inside and painting on a coat of interprotect 2000E after the glass tacks well.  I made a pad in the aft compartment for the bilge pump and float switch.

 

post-2660-0-98364000-1383004124_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-04131600-1383004169_thumb.jpg

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Aft fuel tank installation.  I made a pattern of the fuel tank to aid in fitting the supports, you can see it leaning against the aft bulkhead.  The tanks being plastic, I wanted a very accurate and snug fit.  I'll line the tank bed with neoprene so it won't chafe.  I have room for tank expansion, but is still a close fit vertically.   A very nice fit for the two 40 gal tanks.  They are Moeller tanks.  80 gallons should give me the range I'm after.  Glassing and glue up will take some time.  Here are some pics.

 

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Its  hard to see, but the tank supports have about a 1  inch gap between them and the hull.  They attach only to the keel and bottom stringers.     Allowing any bilge water to flow freely under the tanks as well as air circulation.

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Hello Miyot how did you figure out the tank placement. It appears all the way back. I remember one post saying with just the aft tank full the boat was a different animal. How do you plan on running the fuel hose and vent. It seems like the tank is at the top of the stringers. Are you raising the deck up 21/2"?

I hope to be flipped by Thanksgiving. Long boarding has commenced.

Your boat looks great. Again I am jealous that you are so far along.

PG

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Hello Miyot how did you figure out the tank placement. It appears all the way back. I remember one post saying with just the aft tank full the boat was a different animal. How do you plan on running the fuel hose and vent. It seems like the tank is at the top of the stringers. Are you raising the deck up 21/2"?

I hope to be flipped by Thanksgiving. Long boarding has commenced.

Your boat looks great. Again I am jealous that you are so far along.

PG

Hey Hightech.   It is a tight fit vertically, but just for the fuel outlet and dog house (fuel fill and vent).  I have 2 3/4" clearance from the top of the tank to the bottom of the deck.   Plenty of room for the deck beams.  I only have 1/2 inch clearance at the dog house and fuel outlet.  Hatches will be installed just above these which will give me a little more.  I'll add a piece of neoprene inside the hatches to avoid any chafing should they ever touch..  I have plenty of room for the allowed 3% expansion.   The forward tank (another 40 gal tank in the next compartment forward) has a little more room than the aft tank vertically, so I'm in pretty good shape.

 

The aft tank is only for off shore trips and will be burned first.  Also I'll have a fresh water tank in the compartment forward of the main fuel tank.  I'm not sure yet as to how many gallons, but I'm thinking around 25.  This will help offset some of the weight of the aft fuel tank for those off shore runs.   Fuel fill will be run to the port gunnel as well as the vents to the port side.  I hate cutting holes in the stringers, but the hoses have to get out somehow.  I will add some reinforcement to these spots by adding a doubler of 1/2" ply to these spots.  The fuel fill hose will be tight here but it will go.  I got the corrugated fuel fill hose for flexibility at the chine where it makes the 90 degree bend to go up to the gunnel.  Details details.  Pressing on.    Lets see some pics.

                                                                                                                                                               Dave

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I knew you had it all figured out. I am using the fuel fills with a built in vent. I hate the look of the vent on the topsides. I'll take pictures and post this weekend. On the road till tomorrow. 

Still shooting for a Thanksgiving flip party.

PG

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Dave I think of stringers as I Beams strength is in the top and bottom, holes in the sides shouldn't cause any strength issues. Just my thoughts---

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post-2937-0-09448900-1384023933_thumb.jpgpost-2937-0-41628000-1384023937_thumb.jpgpost-2937-0-08359800-1384023941_thumb.jpgpost-2937-0-66008800-1384023947_thumb.jpg

 

Hi Miyot

I vacuum bagged on the last layers all at once. 3 layer 17 oz on the bottom 2 layer of 17 on the sides. 1 layer  of 1.5 oz mat on the entire hull. Getting there tons of sanding and priming before Thanksgiving.

PG 

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Looks good.  I feel bad for you, you know, to be so far back in the building process.  That stage of construction is but a distant memory for me.  Must be very depressing for you to be nearly at the beginning.  Just a little humor , you know, to perhaps raise your spirits.  You'll get it done sometime.  I know thats a long long way off.  But were pulling for you.

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Thanks for the kind words. I got an email from your wife asking me if I could finish her basement. Looking forward to Thanksgiving.

Very good!

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Hi Jay;

I used 17 oz cloth to laminate my boat. It is a very open course weave. I used the mat on the last layer to help smooth out the surface. I will admit I don't usually use mat be cause it is messy and can "lump" up. I usually would use a 10 oz square weave for the last layer. I was given a large roll of the 1.5 oz mat some time ago and that is the real reason I used it.

PG 

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If you are experienced at vacuum bagging it saves a ton. No voids to deal with. The surface is very smooth. That being said it is a large bag and not for the first timer. One small leak is all it takes. I had 4 friends that are full time boat builders helping me. 

I did learn a great trick. When applying the fairing use a notched trowel. The same trowel for applying thin set mortar. I use a 1/4" V groove trowel. This allows you to sand just the tall ridges. When all is fair then fill in the balance more light sanding done. For deeper fills I usedpost-2937-0-78367600-1384201515_thumb.jpg a 1/2 x 1/2" notched trowel. I had a hollow on both the port and starboard side I filled them with this technique. It worked pretty well. 

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