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Miyot

Ocracoke 24

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Nice Dave. I really do love the shapes. Very creative with the upside down shot! I will say you are the neatest gluer I ever met. I finished my chines last night. Hope to get a layer of glass on this weekend. On the road again Tuesday so brakes will be back on. Have a nice safe Memorial Day weekend. Hopefully next year at this time we will be showing performance pictures!!!

PG

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Thanks fellows.  It aint perfect, but its mine and I'm learning.  Its not without its problems.  I had my intermediate sheer stringer crack after it had been on the boat for a month.  Perhaps I banged it with something.  Anyhow I found it and opened it up as much as I dared and worked some epoxy into it.  Then added some cabosil to the epoxy  and worked it in good.  Clamped it up, and its good to go.  I broke the last stringer trying to install it, even after I had steamed it.  Made another and it went right in.  The first stringer just below the sheer clamp on both sides doesn't quite have enough twist to it at the stem and back about 10 inches or so.  I struggled to fasten them just right and they won.  I'll epoxy a strip of thin wood on these two spots and then plane them to size.  I had problems with the  station 2 frame and couldn't make it work.  I moved it back, shaved some off and generally messed with it.  I finally removed it and pitched it.  My Doug Fir was like steel leaf springs and this was a problem spot for my inexperience.  Hope it looks ok when I turn her over.  This section of the sheer and bow is so important for the looks of the boat.

 

My plans call for a 3" by 1" laminated sheer clamp with a fourth layer (1" x 1") running from the bow to about station 5.  Making the clamp 1 x 4.  I ended my outer 1x1 lamination about 3 inches before station 5.  Sprung a batten to make the fair transition and carefully cut off the excess.  It didn't look right.  I glued it back on, glued on some additional length and moved my transition point to 20 1/2 inches aft of station 5 after playing with a batten trying to find the fair line.  I'll cut off the excess today and report how that looks.  It is difficult to see how things will look right side up when they are upside down.  

 

I'm fairing now and taking my time, trying to fix little problem areas to make it right.  Hightech, you are catching up.  Yea, next yr at this time.  I hope your right.

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Fared and ready for side planking.  The sheer clamp fares from 3" to 4" around station 5.  I began the the transition 20 1/2 aft of station 5 and flared to the full 4" around 10" forward of station 5.  If anything, I left a little extra so I can make any minor adjustments after turnover.  I think I'm close on the profile it should have.  I glued thin shims to the upper most stringers (first ones below the sheer clamp) just at the stem where I couldn't get the twist I needed.  I shaved them to size with the spoke shave and block plane.  I think just right.  

 

I cut the final gain today and I will begin side planking tomorrow.  7 months on the build so far. post-2660-0-07839300-1370134300_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-63091300-1370134325_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-48063000-1370134375_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-71998800-1370134403_thumb.jpg

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I've been following you build since the beginning, you've done a great job so far. I'm in the first stages of building OB 24 #2, I entered your site some time ago discussing the use of Raptor brads and staples, I am using their brads as they fit my PC gun, I have purchased staples and I am wondering now after you have been using the hand stapler, if you had it to do again, would you purchase the air stapler from Raptor? Keep up the great work.

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Russell, for me the hand stapler is just fine.  Getting your weight onto the stapler is the hard part.  The planks must be held together somehow, and my body weight is what I used most.  I do have a small compressor to run a stapler, but didn't what to listen to it run.  I plan on using the stapler for side planking as well.  It will be a different story here, and I won't be able to use the stapler everywhere.  But I'll still use it where I can.  Thanks fellows, can't wait to turn it over.

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Miyot It just looks great. The shape looks real fair even in the pictures so it must real good in person. It is killing me to have to be working and watching your great progress. Hard to believe seven months have gone by. I still think performance pics next June for both of us.

PG

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I haven't made up my mind about which stapler to buy, the air gun is very expensive but I would consider it if I will be able to use it on the sides as well as the bottom. Some of the other folk I have read on another site use only brads to build cold molded boats. I'm waiting to hear from you how the side planking goes.

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Russell, I have begun side planking.  Although I have not yet used the stapler  as I have not started on the outer layer.  I think it is all about getting the stapler square and being able to apply pressure with your body weight.  I have clamped on an outer plank to see how its going to go.  I believe the stapler will work on the majority of the side planks.  The aft planks are much larger than at the bow and clamping will  be nearly impossible on the outer layer except along the gunnels.  However I think starting at the chine and working down is going to be relatively easy.  The planks will lay pretty flat in this area and the bend midway down is not that great.  At the bow I will probably start at the first stringer above the sheer clamp.  The planks in this area are narrow enough my clamps will reach in and do the job.  I will fasten perhaps this stringer, the sheer clamp and the second stringer above the sheer clamps with screws.  The rest with the staples.  

 

Perhaps 85 - 90% of the side planking can be done with the staples.  Now I haven't started stapling yet and could change my mind, but I'm confident the stapler is going to work well.  That air stapler looks unwieldy, but may work better than the hand stapler.  I just wouldn't know until I tried one. You just have to be careful the planks aren't lifting off the inner layer as you go.  Post pics of your build.  

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Miyot It just looks great. The shape looks real fair even in the pictures so it must real good in person. It is killing me to have to be working and watching your great progress. Hard to believe seven months have gone by. I still think performance pics next June for both of us.

PG

Hightech, pictures hide a lot, but I think its ready.  I have fastened on 5 planks so far and I'm starting to get the hang of it.  I spent some time figuring out how to use my ply to its best and then took my time fitting.  I went with the recommended angle but with a smaller width.  I get 6 planks from a 4X8 sheet which will cover about 9 ft of hull.  The planks cut out at about 1 foot 4 inches wide, and and cover 1 foot 6 inches when fastened at their 30 degree angle.  My 4X8 sheets are actually slightly over size at 98 1/2 long, making my planks 49 1/4 tall.  Anyhow I end up with very little waste.

 

I'm now ready to start really moving.  I think it will go quick now.

                                                                                   Dave

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Miyot It just looks great. The shape looks real fair even in the pictures so it must real good in person. It is killing me to have to be working and watching your great progress. Hard to believe seven months have gone by. I still think performance pics next June for both of us.

PG

Hightech, pictures hide a lot, but I think its ready.  I have fastened on 5 planks so far and I'm starting to get the hang of it.  I spent some time figuring out how to use my ply to its best and then took my time fitting.  I went with the recommended angle but with a smaller width.  I get 6 planks from a 4X8 sheet which will cover about 9 ft of hull.  The planks cut out at about 1 foot 4 inches wide, and and cover 1 foot 6 inches when fastened at their 30 degree angle.  My 4X8 sheets are actually slightly over size at 98 1/2 long, making my planks 49 1/4 tall.  Anyhow I end up with very little waste.

 

I'm now ready to start really moving.  I think it will go quick now.

                                                                                   Dave

 

As you plank the initial layer, you are going to want to make sure the edges are in line between the battens. You can actually use some throwaway plywood with packing tape on the face to align the seams until the glue dries in the more intense shape areas. On the other thread on the other forum bill shows it well, if you had not caught it. That keeps scaling from occurring.

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In reference to your (pic) post on 17 Feb '13 (pg 4) pics 1 & 2. Maybe a dumb question, but I'm getting ready to install the transom and trying to think of a reason there should not be limber holes in the bottom stringers at the transom. Seems obvious they should be there but doesn't appear that you had cut any there at the time the pics were made.  Maybe you added them later?  Or is there a reason they should not be there?

J.O.

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Fishman 38, I cut the limbers after I installed the vertical stiffeners and added the extra transom lamination's, I think.  Anyhow they are there now.  All the compartments will drain aft to the lowest point.  I will install 2 bilge pumps there.

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Oncr again thanks again for the help!  So is the second pump there as a back-up or because it would not be wise to cut a limber through the keel (which would seem to be an absolute no,no) or both?  Do you plan to tie them to a single switch?

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No limbers in the keel.   One pump will be a back up, and I rig it to a manual switch.  The other will be automatic.  I'll have an access hatch for service, and I can sop up any small amounts the pumps can't reach.

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