Oyster Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 Great job on all accounts. The small wedge appears to have come out pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miyot Posted September 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Great job on all accounts. The small wedge appears to have come out pretty good. Thanks Oyster. The fairing on the wedge isn't perfect, but with my skills I was happy with it. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hightechmarine Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Looks great Miyot!!!!!!!!! You can really see that Carolina flare with the paint apllied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miyot Posted September 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Looks great Miyot!!!!!!!!! You can really see that Carolina flare with the paint apllied Thanks Hightech. Where did you get with your glassing this weekend, did your help show up? Your boat looks good, I imagine once you get rolling turnover will come pretty quick. Are you going to make a dolly for the shop or finish the boat on a trailer? I would liked to of had a dolly but my barn floor is dirt and to uneven. I could have blocked her up to finish, but needed to be mobile. I'm sure it would be easier to finish the boat on a short dolly close to the ground. Being square and level would certainly help while finishing the inside of the boat. I am going to level my rig the best I can and move my tools and epoxy jugs inside the boat. With her upright and on the trailer, climbing in and out is a pain. I now have very little room to walk around the boat. I was surprised at how well the Perfection flowed out. The first coat didn't cover but was the best one of the 3 coats. It really did look sprayed. The Interlux bulletin 410 said the lighter colors, especially the whites could be rolled without tipping off. A painter with some skills could do a first rate job with this paint. I really had to move to keep a wet edge and I don't think I would of had time to both roll and tip it myself. Keep the updates coming. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hightechmarine Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Yes everyone showed up all glassed. Going to peel it today. Pictures to follow. I am going to build a cradle with wheels. Do you have room to build a platform behind the boat? Even if you had to attach it to the wall. Keeping all that stuff out of the boat will be key. That Perfection is nice stuff. That was a good trick to just roll and no tipping. We have used Perfection in the past with great results. I am going to use Awl Grip however. I am actually taking the boat to Rhode Island and have my friends spray it in their booth. I know I can't help myself. I am thinking of building one aluminum gas tank with a bulkhead to divide the tank into a 30 and 20 gallons. I saw two plastic gas tanks in separate yards that were cracked possibly by lack of support. I was a big plastic tank guy until I saw that. Make sure you put plenty of "ventilated" support under your tank. I may have my tank sprayed with Rhino Liner. The stuff they use in pickup truck beds. I have to investigate it further however.. You are looking good.Talk soon PG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hightechmarine Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Miyot; What are you going to do about flotation? I keep forgetting to investigate this. I like the idea of gluing it to the cockpit sole. I have no idea what kind of glue or foam to use. Anyone have any experience with this? Comments more than welcome. PG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miyot Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Miyot; What are you going to do about flotation? I keep forgetting to investigate this. I like the idea of gluing it to the cockpit sole. I have no idea what kind of glue or foam to use. Anyone have any experience with this? Comments more than welcome. PG Good question. I also wondered what kind of foam and glue to use. I'm going to place some kind of blocks on the bottom so if yrs down the road the foam falls it can't lay directly on the bottom and water can still drain. Hope someone has the right answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glm Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Good afternoon I am new to this form and have been following the progress of both boats for some time. I have just finished the frames for the Ocracoke 20' however I live up in Ontario and the fall weather has stopped any epoxy work outside. I to have wondered about floatations, and have found closed cell foam in the form of balls. The balls come in various sizes from about 1/2 to several inches in size. This would allow for air ventilation as well as drainage if needed. No need for gluing foam in place, just fill the cavity. I found a company in MI that manufacture them, at a reasonable price compared to pour in place foam. Keep the builds going, the boats look great. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyster Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Run away from any and all foam in the boat. That's my position and I am sticking to it. All that stuff will bring you is grief. While the plastic boats under 20 foot use it, consider something for a minute, Boats above 20 are not required to have any either. So if you think you may need to stay afloat, you will need wads of the stuff and may truly regret it down the road in these types of boats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keen2build Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Good afternoonI am new to this form and have been following the progress of both boats for some time. I have just finished the frames for the Ocracoke 20' however I live up in Ontario and the fall weather has stopped any epoxy work outside. I to have wondered about floatations, and have found closed cell foam in the form of balls. The balls come in various sizes from about 1/2 to several inches in size. This would allow for air ventilation as well as drainage if needed. No need for gluing foam in place, just fill the cavity. I found a company in MI that manufacture them, at a reasonable price compared to pour in place foam. Keep the builds going, the boats look great.Greg Hi Guys, I also was wondering if flotation is needed, maybe this would be best answered by Graham the designer. I live in Queensland Australia and any vessel that has been built now has to have a label on it that states weather or not the boat has level buoyancy. Ie if the vessel capsizes, will it float level to the water or bow up stern down. Trev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hightechmarine Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 I'm with you Oyster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miyot Posted October 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Run away from any and all foam in the boat. That's my position and I am sticking to it. All that stuff will bring you is grief. While the plastic boats under 20 foot use it, consider something for a minute, Boats above 20 are not required to have any either. So if you think you may need to stay afloat, you will need wads of the stuff and may truly regret it down the road in these types of boats. I'm going to agree as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted October 5, 2013 Report Share Posted October 5, 2013 This is a sticky subject. I agree with Oyster that a lot of good boats have been ruined by poured in foam. By law I have had to address the problem and the drawing shows my method. I get regular visits from the Coast Guard, they want foam. No pouring foam into the bottom of the boat. The flexing of the bottom will break down the cells attached to the bottom which then holds moisture against the wood until it rots. I cut sheet foam to fit and glue it into place keeping it 1" above the bottom. All stringers and frames have proper limber holes allowing all moisture to reach the drain plugs and ventilate the bottom with the plugs removed on the trailer. I put the tanks in the center bay. While the boat is wood there is not enough wood to float the motor and crew. Putting the foam in the outside bays helps to keep the water filled craft more stable. Fortunately in America you an build anything that you want and go use it. If you are commercial though, you have to meet all of the Coast Guard rules and if anything goes wrong you get to experience the joys of the legal system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyster Posted October 5, 2013 Report Share Posted October 5, 2013 This is a sticky subject. I agree with Oyster that a lot of good boats have been ruined by poured in foam. By law I have had to address the problem and the drawing shows my method. I get regular visits from the Coast Guard, they want foam. No pouring foam into the bottom of the boat. The flexing of the bottom will break down the cells attached to the bottom which then holds moisture against the wood until it rots. I cut sheet foam to fit and glue it into place keeping it 1" above the bottom. All stringers and frames have proper limber holes allowing all moisture to reach the drain plugs and ventilate the bottom with the plugs removed on the trailer. I put the tanks in the center bay. While the boat is wood there is not enough wood to float the motor and crew. Putting the foam in the outside bays helps to keep the water filled craft more stable. Fortunately in America you an build anything that you want and go use it. If you are commercial though, you have to meet all of the Coast Guard rules and if anything goes wrong you get to experience the joys of the legal system.flotation.jpg Good reply,,,, Thanks, That poured foam directly into the bilges in these boats will totally destroy all the work that is done. I will also note that anyone using plastic fuel tanks in the bilge region will also need space in which the tank will expand. The plastic tank fittings such as the fuel gauge fasteners have also created issues of leaks over the long haul too, even with some of the leaching of fumes supposedly corrected in the new models. I have moved completely away from them in any form. Its really easy for the home builder to coat the aluminum ones with barrier coats which preserves them in the hidden and semi closed areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hightechmarine Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 Oyster any reason you can think of why I can't spray the aluminum tank with Rhino Liner? I think it would insulate and contain any spills. Just trying to think outside the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyster Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 Oyster any reason you can think of why I can't spray the aluminum tank with Rhino Liner? I think it would insulate and contain any spills. Just trying to think outside the box. I have never used it for fuel tanks, not because it would or would not work. But I use several products. If you can find any major retailers that sells Rustoleum products, there is a favorite product called Coal Tar Epoxy. Its fairly reasonable, but the prices vary. The normal outlets may have to order it in, if they can order small amounts, if not in stock. http://www.zorotools.com/g/00022945/k-G2564256?srccode=cii_5784816&cpncode=31-245348825-2&utm_source=channel_intelligence&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=pricegrabber http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RUSTOLEUM-Coal-Tar-Epoxy-Coating-3XH23 http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?freeText=coal+tar&page=GRID&engine=msn&keyword=coal_tar_epoxy_paint I also use Interprotect 2000E too and then recoat them with a Tile Clad Primer from Sherwin Williams or a Polymide Coatings from Benjamin Moore. Devoe makes a similar product 4508. but all these products comes in gallon kits, one to one. Of course sand the tank with 80 grit and clean it with any chemical wash of the surface and you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miyot Posted October 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 This is all good info although I have already purchased my plastic fuel tanks. Two 40 gallon tanks. Non returnable non cancel able plastic fuel tanks. I do have enough room for tank expansion and will do a good job installing them. I have read that aluminum corrodes badly with the ethanol fuels and has a life of about 12 yrs. So I choose plastic. All well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hightechmarine Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 Decisions Decisions all great info.Thank You Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyster Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 Decisions Decisions all great info.Thank You Decisions and opinions are part of our daily lives. None are right and none are really wrong. I have indeed found the wrong ones to only be known after the fact. So this brings me back to my own decisions, and may not reflect what is best for others. Hope that clears up things a bit for you.;<}} 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarolinaFlare Posted October 22, 2013 Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 Miyot, Do you remember the total length & width of you strong back? And, does the transom extend past the stern end of the strong back? Trying to figure out if I can build in my garage or if I need to look for another build site. From your pictures I can tell the stem is at the tip of the nose of the strong back, maybe 6" further at most. Cheers, Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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