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Ocracoke 24


Miyot

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Bottom of boat is glassed.  Well there are over 5000 staples in the boat, and about a dozen of them on the starboard side bottom didn't seal properly when I applied the seal coat of epoxy.  I began glassing at noon not worrying about out gassing because of the seal coat.  Anyhow I had a dozen small bubbles on the bottom starboard side.  I slit them and nursed them as I worked.   They all turned out good, with the glass filled and and epoxied to the hull.  However the peel ply would not lay back down on these spots, leaving the weave of the glass visible.  These were easily patched with a little epoxy and a new piece of peel ply on top after the peel ply was removed.

 

I started glassing the port side at 7:00 PM and had no out gassing problems.  Also went much quicker.

Were you able to do this singlehandedly?  (I'm sure you must have used both hands; I mean did you have any help... :) )You started at 7 PM, what time did you finish?

 

Yes I glassed the boat single handed.  Glassing one side of the  bottom took about 5 1/2 hrs.  Glassing the one side of the top sides took about 6 1/4 hrs.  Help would be nice if you can get it.  Where have you been.  Lets see some updates.

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Lots of interruptions this summer, family matters, etc. so progress has been slow.  Those are pretty much over now at least 'til Thanksgiving so can get back to serious building.  Hope to finish the bottom planking this week, then get the chine flats in.

 

BTW one of the etc's was an overnight trip last weekend to Estes Park and the Boulder area, where much of the flooding has been going on the last few days, for the "Highland Games" that they have in E.P. every year.  Would have been dicey for us had that started while we were there.  Some of the flooding has been happening here in Colorado Springs as well, within a few blocks of our house and up into Manitou Springs, only a couple of miles away.  Between the fires and the flooding it's been an interesting couple of years!

 

 

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Wow.  Thats the first I've heard of that.  I did wonder about the radius of the transom but figured it would bear on both sides of the engine mount evenly.  Its really not much of a radius.  I'm going to go ahead and paint.  When I take the boat for engine installation I'll have them place the engine against the transom and see where it bears and if I have to i'll mark it and fix it then.  Without a motor to see the fit, i'm not removing any off the transom.    Before I removed any I would sand down to glass and fit and epoxy  a shim first.  This will need looking into a little.

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Oyster, my transom is 2 inches thick where the motor will hang.  After talking to Hightech, I walked down to the barn.  One to look at  transom and 2 to wipe down the boat to remove any remaining dust.  I believe Hightech has a little more curve in his transom than mine.  I'm sure a motor will bolt on my transom without any adjustment.  I laid  a 16 inch board against the area where the engine will bolt.  I had about a 1/8" gap or slightly less at both ends of the board.  I had about a full 8 inches where the board fit pretty flush.

 

I don't know how wide the engine mount is yet, but I'm not worried about it.  I think mine will go on ok.  But i'll be paying attention when it comes time.

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Well its important that you you do not have voids on each side and then bolt your engine securely in place. All you will be doing is creating a stree point on the transom, even across the flat areas of your engine bracket causing your glass to crack under the topcoats. You really only need some rough measurements, even if the numbers are a wee bit wider.  Why not fix it now, even to the point of adding to both sides and creating a flat pad for the engine. A lot of fiberglass boats did this and I would deal with this now, since you are still in the building stage. The 2 inch transom still leaves you more than enough room for most outboard brackets at the yoke area, if you mount your engine close to the maximum at the cutout measurement that I spoke about.

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Talked to Graham to be sure what to do.  He said just sand off the paint to the glass and use thickened epoxy to epoxy an appropriately sized flat piece of ply onto the mounting area and fair it in.  I'll have to make a trip to the outboard dealer to get some good measurements.  Thats what i'll do.  Thanks Hightech and Oyster.  I'll do a nice job so it looks factory.

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Hightech, talked to my outboard dealer today and he agreed with your guys assessment of the transom.  I got measurements for the mounting pad and for the Yamaha 150 4 stroke it is 17' tall by 16 1/2 wide.  I'll make mine 17 1/2 wide at the top and 16 1/2 wide at the bottom so it has a slight taper for appearance.  I'll put off painting until I get the transom complete. 

 

Thanks for the heads up Hightech and thanks Oyster for helping to get it through my thick head I should fix it now.  Off to the boat shed.

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I would go a bit wider if I was doing this, which gives you some margin of error in the mounting alignment. Keep in mind that when you are mounting your engine, true alignment sideways begins at the keel region. If you are also using just thickened epoxy, use 404 for the thickening agent. This is used in areas of high stress for making wedges like in engine shaft struts on offshore sportfishing boats.

 

If at all possible see if the dealer has a used engine of a similar stripe and mounting bracket size and use this as a fitting device, drilling your holes now. In the process oversize your holes in the areas of the bracket holes and fill them with the same thickened epoxy for now. What this does is to create a nice barrier chase for your bolts and can keep moisture out of the plywood down the road if you get any water around the bolts around the bedding compound and following the bolts inside the transom.  Sure its a lot of work, but well worth the extra effort if you want to continue to eliminate some issues that can be experienced down the road.

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Hey Oyster, thanks for the help.  I happen to have the 404 and will use it on this job.   The dimensions I gave are over size.  The 16 1/2 width  already leaves 1/4 on each side and was measured on the exact same outboard that I ordered.  On your advice I will bump it up to 18" at the top and 17" wide at the bottom.  This will give me an inch of extra on each side.  I'll center the pad carefully and i'll epoxy the holes as you suggest.  Thanks

      Dave

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In regards to painting the boat, you can still paint the boat's hull and do the transom later and it would be fine. Just break the paint at the corners by taping the edges on both sides with good plastic fine line tape. Then after you paint it, pull the tape before it dries and the seamline will all but go away as it levels out in the drying phase of the paint. No one will ever notice it. This will allow you to move along and not worry about messing anything up in the dry fitting stage of the engine.

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Fastened on my flat for the outboard on the transom.  The flat is 18" wide at the top and 17" at the bottom.  I had a 1/8 gap at each end at the top and 3/16 on each end at the bottom.  The pad is 17" tall.  I cut pegs, 1/8 for the top and 3/16 for the bottom.  I fastened the pad with two screws at its center where the pad was flush with the transom.  After applying the epoxy (404) I pushed the pegs into it at the corners of the pad.  Keeping the sides of the pad off the transom the appropriate distance.

 

Started work on the inside as well.  This time I was careful with the epoxy when I glassed on the pad.  Making sure I used plenty to avoid any pinholes.  Put the peel ply on and wet it out.  Worked carefully to make sure I rolled out all the little bubbles along the cords that hold the bi axial together.  It looked perfect.  Once again patches of pin holes on removal of the peel ply.  Each pin hole appeared just on each side of the cords on the bi axial, and only on the outside layer.  They don't go through to the inside layer of the bi axial.  What a pain.  So I put a coat of interprotect on which really shows up the pin holes.  Most are so small they are hardly visible or invisible until a coat of paint or epoxy goes on.  Then they show up plainly.  I filled them with interlux watertite.  Which is easier than mixing up microspheres and works well.

 

This time I did a little experiment and used no epoxy to fill weave as I did on the hull.  I went straight to the interprotect.  I got good coverage on the first coat.  A light sanding and another coat of the interprotect and it will be ready for the bottom paint.  The upper portion of the pad I will put on two coats of the Primer epoxykote 404 sanding in between, as I did the rest of the hull.  I'm getting good coverage without the additional coats of epoxy and getting a nice smooth surface.  The peel ply works.

 

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If everything goes right I'll have the boat spray painted next weekend.  Also the pad is 3/8 thick.

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post-2660-0-74832700-1380493305_thumb.jpgI rolled on 3 coats of perfection this weekend.  I did not tip and got pretty good results.  Interlux bulletin 410 said some of the lighter colors can be rolled on without tipping with a brush and it worked well with the Fighting Lady Yellow.  I got a slight orange peel finish but it is acceptable to me.  I tried to get the boat spray painted but could get no one to do it in the next month.  I have some small defects but I can live with them.  I am pressing forward.  I will re-install the end of the barn soon so I can heat my work area.

 

I was impressed with the interlux perfection.  When I got an early start with the temp right at sixty degrees I didn't have to add any thinner.  I got good flow out with very little orange peel.  It looked almost sprayed.  The roller had to be changed about every half hour and some thinner added as temps got to sixty five.  Today I rolled the last coat on and had the most trouble so far.  A breeze kicked up and temps were a little higher than when I applied the first coat.  I thinned about 3% and continued to get pretty good flow out.  I should have added a little more thinner as the job went on but got lazy. Over all I'm happy with the paint job.  If anything I could have spent more time on fairing as the finish is a little wavy in places.  On to  the inside.  I feel like I'm getting nothing done.  Looking forward to working with wood again.    After the paint hardens good I'll re tape the water line on the good paint and add some bottom paint to clean up the water line.  I'm glad painting and crap is over for a while.

 

post-2660-0-80128800-1380492700_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-12018700-1380492736_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-31583300-1380492765_thumb.jpgpost-2660-0-14205300-1380492803_thumb.jpg 

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