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Ocracoke 24


Miyot

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Full body protection and an organic filter with really good cross ventilation is imperative for rolling on the paint.  I'm going to roll it on and tip with a brush.  I removed the air conditioner at one end of the barn and had good cross ventilation for laying on the Interprotect.  Even with a good breeze the organic filter was a must.
 

Even the best organic vapors cartridge in a respirator does nothing to remove the isocyanates from the air you breath if it contains vapors from a solvent based 2 part LPU.  And since they (isocyanates) are odorless the fact that you smell nothing only means it has removed the solvents with an odor.  Supplied air (along with a suit) is the only true protection from these paints.

 

So should I move the boat outdoors for painting the top sides with the LPU.  I had hoped removing the wall at the end of the barn would eliminate the vapors from collecting.  I appreciate the advice.

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I can't really suggest what others do. I don't want any exposure to isocyanates.  Everyone is effected by chemicals differently and I don't trust any of the supposed acceptable limits.  I won't even use solvent based LPUs.  My previous builds were sprayed by an associate wearing a full suit and supplied air to a full face mask.  I will use water based LPU on my next build.  I can live with a little less gloss.

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Did you mask the Interprotect and primer to each other so there is no overlap?

 

I also suggest that you don't apply any bottom paint until all other painting is done.  Bottom paint does not mask well compared to finish paints and any finish paint that overlaps it won't look very good.  Or paint the bottom but stop short of the water line and paint that later.

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Great job!! Did you take any pic's of the actual rollover? I have been asked many times how am I going to roll the boat? I used a single rope and pully and a small fork lift we rented for my Marissa, the same as Graham did for his. Building a frame like yours seems to be much less expensive than renting a large boom truck for my OB 24. I realize it may be next year before that time comes for me, but I like to plan ahead. By the way I purchased a Raptor air staple gun, have used it a little bit for scarfing ect. works great, no need for clamping long boards to hold big scarfs together on plywood sheets.The staples are flush, can't sand them as heads are flush with plywood face, hope epoxy sticks to them. Thanks again for your excellent detail of your build.

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Just one more thing, are you planing to attend the Messabout this year? I would really like to meet you.

Hey Russell.  I'd love to go to the messabout, its just to far.  About 10 hrs or so.  If my boat was finished I would think about it.  As for pics of turnover, I don't have any.  I did it all by myself as the family were at a soccer game.  I used six half ton chain hoists with a snatch block on each one.  I had 2 chain hoists for my last build.  Bought 2 more and borrowed 2.   I bought 1/2 inch low stretch double braid line from Northern Tool, 8000 lb.  I ran the lines around the boat and through the snatch blocks which were hooked to the chain hoists. So I had 3 lines around the boat.   So when I lifted the boat the lines were free to rotate in the snatch blocks.  I just rotated the boat around.

 

However I didn't have the height I needed because I lost 1 1/2 feet due to the chain hoist and snatch block hooked together.  So I rotated her until the side of the bow flair touched the ground, put some carpet under it and drug it to one side which was a little lower as my ground slopes in the barn. Cranked a little and drug her again.  It took three little drags and lifts until she was vertical on her side.  Aft was off the ground and the bow flair resting on the ground.  I had a line around her and a full round turn around a beam in the barn so she wouldn't get away from me as she went over.  I put a little slack in the control line and gave her a shove.  Over she went, coming tight on the control line.  I held on tight, untied the line and she wanted to go and I payed it out slow and over she went.  Without the full round turn around the beam she would have gotten away from me.  My bottom paint was still a little soft and it rubbed off in a couple of spots so I'll touch them up nice.  There she was hanging about six inches off the ground at the bow and a foot or so aft.

 

I blocked her up, lowered the snatch blocks and got another bite with all 3 lines.  Shortening the lines I used a bowline.  When I lifted her high enough for the trailer I put cribbing underneath for safety as I raised her.  Turn over took about 15 min.  Some planning had to be done so the corners of the boat didn't contact the snatch blocks as she went around.  Worked well.

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Assume Dave. I love the McGiver attitude. Nothing stops you. The boat looks great. I am more anxious than ever to get mine glassed and flipped. Did you get the transom cut out from the engine manufacturer  I was thinking of going to the Mess-about this year. But maybe I will wait and we both show up together next year. Really looks fantastic. Look forward to seeing her all done.

PG

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Assume Dave. I love the McGiver attitude. Nothing stops you. The boat looks great. I am more anxious than ever to get mine glassed and flipped. Did you get the transom cut out from the engine manufacturer  I was thinking of going to the Mess-about this year. But maybe I will wait and we both show up together next year. Really looks fantastic. Look forward to seeing her all done.

PG

Your scaring me with the transom cut out thing.  I talked to 8 or 10 Yamaha dealers and only 2 knew what the transom height should be.  I explained to them all that I was going to cut out the transom notch as I had built the boat.  They were all perturbed and every one of them told me the boat manufacture should do that.  None of them but the 2 could tell me anything about transom height, nor would they take the time for a measurement.  Prices by the way were out in left field.  The price spread for the exact same engine was over 5000.00.

 

Anyhow one guy took a measurement from notch to keel was 25 1/8".  The dealer I bought the motor from seemed to know his stuff and said make it 25" and so I did.  I sure hope its right.  I used Grahams measurement for the width.   I was amazed at how disinterested the dealers were in my business.  Two were to busy to talk, took my information and never called me back.  None of them had specs and told me specs for the transom cutout could only be obtained from the boat manufacturer.  After I explained I had built the boat.  Perhaps things are different at the coast where lots of engines are sold.  Go figure.

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I asked because I got the same run around. I must have talked to 20 people about this. One guy actually told me to make it over sized because the engine bolts on the transom and you then have the flexibility to slide it up and down WHAT!!! I finally found someone I think knows what he talking about. I also have decided on 25" from the keel. It was explained to me that this is the distance from the engine hanger to the cavatation plate on the motor. I think you have it right. It would seem to me that is is information the would affect the performance of the motor and the manufacturer would have this readily available. Nope couldn't find it anywhere.

You build looks great. 

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I asked because I got the same run around. I must have talked to 20 people about this. One guy actually told me to make it over sized because the engine bolts on the transom and you then have the flexibility to slide it up and down WHAT!!! I finally found someone I think knows what he talking about. I also have decided on 25" from the keel. It was explained to me that this is the distance from the engine hanger to the cavatation plate on the motor. I think you have it right. It would seem to me that is is information the would affect the performance of the motor and the manufacturer would have this readily available. Nope couldn't find it anywhere.

You build looks great. 

The engine mounting bracket does have multiple holes in it for up and down adjustment.  Set to low and you shave off MPH as well as fuel economy.  Set to high and you cavitate.  I have read a good starting point is to have the cavitation plate one inch above the keel.  I want good performance, but I don't want to cavitate while pitching in a sea.  I've been on boats that did this.  They were constantly over revving as the prop sucked air as a sea passed under the boat, then the prop would bite again as the stern settled and would shudder as the prop took hold.  Obviously set to high.  This boat may have run well on flat water with this set up but was no good in a sea. 

Have you called Yamaha? They have a Regional Office in Kennesaw Ga. They have some good folks to talk to. 866 894 6106. I talked to Vaughan Griffiths.

Thanks for the info Russell.

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The running length of the transom is not always the shaft length of any outboard engine. The transom angle can change this distance since vertical height of your engine can be less than that of the running length. Try to measure the engine that you plan on using and then take a stick and then check where you think the plate will be in relationship to the cut out of the cap. The plan about 1/2" to 3/4 less, which will give you plenty of room after you finish the cap edge in which to adjust the engine from the absolute minimums. .

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Bottom of boat is glassed.  Well there are over 5000 staples in the boat, and about a dozen of them on the starboard side bottom didn't seal properly when I applied the seal coat of epoxy.  I began glassing at noon not worrying about out gassing because of the seal coat.  Anyhow I had a dozen small bubbles on the bottom starboard side.  I slit them and nursed them as I worked.   They all turned out good, with the glass filled and and epoxied to the hull.  However the peel ply would not lay back down on these spots, leaving the weave of the glass visible.  These were easily patched with a little epoxy and a new piece of peel ply on top after the peel ply was removed.

 

I started glassing the port side at 7:00 PM and had no out gassing problems.  Also went much quicker.

Were you able to do this singlehandedly?  (I'm sure you must have used both hands; I mean did you have any help... :) )You started at 7 PM, what time did you finish?

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