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Tangerine


Mike John

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The outwhale is on. Of all the things I could have done wrong, one of them resulted in this. It's not a major problem.

The outwhale still makes contact with the stem and I can run a screw through it was well when all is considered. A little tweaking with the breasthook to make the stem and outwhales make fluid contact and all will be fixed.

The little shelf will add a lot of strength to that area but even the two little extra stringers on the inside stiffen it up, if I leave the shelf out. If a better builder than me does the boat there will most likely be no problem. I usually leave a little extra on top of the stem for such occassions but I forgot. I think that is a good idea but a second build will prove it was my fault most likely. Anyway, if you build Tangerine leave extra on the top side of the stem and trim it flush latter. The next build should tell us more.

Mike John

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This is how I am going to solve the bow problem

I will attach some 3mm ply to a notched area in the inwhale and the side of the outwhale that also screws to the top of the stem. I will then fill the gap level to the top of the outwhale with western red cedar. Should work just fine.

Pictures in a day or two.

Mike John

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  • 4 weeks later...

An Update.

I have been sick with a virus and progress has only been an hour here and there but I have the canoe off the strongback. Everything is lashed, including the keel. I broke a stringer when it got caught while turning the canoe over but I successfully scarfed a new piece in and it looks just fine. The lashing pulled unevenly and cut deeply into that stringer on one frame and weakened it.

I now have to put the blocks in between the gunwhales, put seats in, finish the breasthooks, put a floor in, oil it, skin it and put the protective strips on.

Mike John

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I keep posting here so it is all in the same place.

A total of seven spacer blocks in. I am putting the spacer blocks at the frame in first. I am cutting notches in them so they slip over and hide the top of the plywood frames and still sit well against the gunnels. A couple of screws will make them plenty strong enough.

Mike John

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I'm still working on it. I am trying to find a floor solution I like. My 1/2" plywood is a bit heavy for a floor but I might have to use it. I am trying to find some Douglas Fir which is harder to find and more expensive in Australia. I think I will have to fix some small cleats to the frame faces and put some floor cross beams on top of the cleats and then put the floorboards on top of the cross beams. Otherwise the floor will sit on the lashings and move about with flexing etc

Pics

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27867753@N05/7476201168/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27867753@N05/7476201298/in/photostream

Mike John

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Floor joists ....

Floor joists? ;)

Actually, they should probably be called floors as they connect across from the port to starboard frames (well, sides of the frame). Then the part you kneel on would be the sole. Modern boat building methods have tried some of the terminology of old, but I can never bring myself to calling what I stand, kneel or sit on the floor.

Looking good, and that may be a good solution. Did Jeff not include a detail for this?

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No I didn't. Wasn't sure how to handle this one. I was thinking floor resting on top of the frames but that doesn't leave a flat floor. Of course Mikes solution raises the floor up and I wonder if that is going to be a problem. I just don't see a good answer at this point so anxious to see how this works out. Then I can make any needed changes.

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Personally I don't think the sole needs to be flat. I would consider attaching the strips (my preference) or plywood to the top of the frames and just follow the curve. Having a space between them and the skin is a good thing, but keeping it as low as possible is a plus as well.

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I considered two boards down the middle but her royalnesses little legs would not have reached to that point. I considered laying boards on the frame and following the curve but in the end the boards would rest on the lashings and boards move and flex no matter how well you anchor them. The lashings would wear. The floor is a little higher than the frames but only by the width of the frame. See how it goes I guess but I think it should work. It's all a compromise.

Mike John

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