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Posted

The jury is still out. I can't decide if I like this or not, but it is a little late for second thoughts. The bottom is ZAR varnish with mahogany stain mixed in the top is ZAR varnish with golden maple stain. The top turned out very transparent. I made color swatches of various colors of stain mixed in the varnish, but, of coarse, the finish product never looks like the color swatches. My wife hates it so I probably won't change it! I'd appreciate honest opinions. My skin is thicker thsn s kayak!

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Posted

I decided to take the ship outside today to get a better look at the color. I think it looks a little better in the sunlight. It is definately different. I need to figure out a way at paint over along the rim to cover a little bleed through where I didn't get the tape burnished quite enough. Next one I may not go the varnish. But live and learn. That is what it is all about.

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Posted

Which photo is more accurate color wise? I am guessing the outdoor one over exposes the deck some? I have been thinking a lot about what I was going to do on Cotton Row and I really like the color I see in the first photo on the deck. Of course I know that ever computer monitor is slightly different too.

Posted

Oh yea, I was going to tell you that the 3m 2020 tape is the only tape I have found that did allow the paint to seep under the edge. That is why I keep using it. I will sometimes get a small spot or two but I don't spend a lot of time burnishing either. If I did I think I could get really good results. But I with paint I just always expect to have do a little bit of touch up.

Maybe that is something I should add to store?

Posted

Well here is one more picture, it is pretty true to color outdoors and the first one posted is pretty true indoors. At least to my eye. It is just maybe a smidge darker (peacher) than this picture. You can see how transparent it is. My wife flat hates it. Says I completely ruined the kayak. I don't feel quite that strongly about it. I kinda was look for a "hide" look and well....

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Posted

I brushed on the first two coats and used a foam roller on the third, feathering it with a brush as I went.

Got a question for the experts, I painted a strip today to cover the bleed spots, probably got more, but my question is, do you remove the masking tape before the varnish is completely dry or wait until it is completely dry??

Posted

It looks a lot different outside. Part of that is that indoor pictures do no justice at all for colors. I liked the contrast in the indoor shots, but was not thrilled with the colors. Now that I see it in daylight I like it.

I painted a strip today to cover the bleed spots, probably got more, but my question is, do you remove the masking tape before the varnish is completely dry or wait until it is completely dry??

Yes ;)

When you remove the tape does not really effect how crisp the line comes out unless you applied so much paint that it drools after it is removed. It is a matter of the tape and how well it sticks, the texture or lack of in the surface being painted, and the viscosity of the paint. Under ideal conditions the viscosity of the paint does not matter, but with cloth it can matter a lot. I don't like to advertise, but 3M Fine Line worked great for me.

I didn't know any better, so I followed Jeff's suggestions for painting. I used a foam roller for all the painting except getting under the coaming and into the seam where I used a brush. I did not tip with a brush after rolling like I would have done on a wooden or composite boat. This may have some effect on getting paint under the tape or not.

Posted

Looks like you used the gloss ZAR rather than satin? Also, how much stain did you add, roughly. I like the look a lot. Just to minimize the risk of screwing up things, I'll probably do one color of ZAR, likely somewhere between your topsides and hull. I think the translucent topsides look great.

Posted

Looks like you used the gloss ZAR rather than satin? Also, how much stain did you add, roughly. I like the look a lot. Just to minimize the risk of screwing up things, I'll probably do one color of ZAR, likely somewhere between your topsides and hull. I think the translucent topsides look great.

I used Satin, I didn't see where they had a flat. The dark color does not appear as shinny as the top, probably because the dark doesn't reflect light as much as the lighter color. I mixed about 1/3 stain. Probably didn't need that much. First coat I mixed, 6 oz. varnish and 3 oz. stain. Total of 9 oz. and it covered the bottom with just a little left over. After that on the following coats I made up 8 oz. figureing it wouldn't take quite as much. I was correct, but only had a small amount left over. The top I started with a total mix of 8 oz. and it came out about right, just a little left over. I bought 3 quarts of varnish because I had to order it and wanted to make sure I didn't run out. I used up just a little over a quart. I used ZAR stain also, found it much better than Minwax stain. I was able to get ZAR stain at one of our three Ace Hardware store, but they didn't carry ZAR varnish, go figure...

Posted

I did some research for Scott's Vardo that he used the Zar on. My guy at the paint store was very knowledgeable about tinting the stain and recommended only using a mixture of 1 part stain to 4 parts poly, (a 20% mixture). He felt that any more would lessen the positive characteristics of the poly. If you wanted a darker, he said to choose a different color or perhaps add extra coats with the same mixture. We played with several colors and Scott liked the dark mahogany best.

Posted

I have given some thought about the mix I used, of coarse after I had already done it, and I am a little concerned about the mix I used. It has to delute something because the stain is primarily for indoor. Probably at the least reduces the UV protection. I've thought about maybe putting a coat or two of just the varnish over it. But, in reality my kayak will be indoors 90% of the time so I will wait and do it right on the next one. I think a 20% mix will make it plenty dark. I asked these kinds of question of the experts at the ACE store and they didn't have a clue.

Posted

I wonder if you could use cosmetic powders. That is what they mix into the Alumilite stuff that they make pen blanks out of. Boy is that would work you could come up with some great colors.

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