Curlew build log

[Aethyr]

I have 3 more frames to cut the exterior of before I am done with that. Then I need to cut the interior out. Plan is to take a 3/4" forstner bit and drill out all the corners, then connect the lines with the jig saw. It will require more hand sanding/filing to get a nice smooth edge on the interior since I can't use my belt sander/bandsaw.

[chris.lewis.425]

Just a thought on how I laid out my frames for an own-design (photos coming this weekend) using Jeff's techniques. I ended up redoing a few frames to make sure that all internal corners were 1.5" in diameter. This allowed me to use my Rigid Oscillating spindle sander on all of the interior corners. Really sped up my finishing time and helped prevent a possible stress point for the small diameter inner corners. Your mileage may vary, but it's worked great for me.

Chris in Seattle

[Aethyr]

Looks very handy to sand the interior..

I realized I could use a sanding drum on my dremel. Won't be as quick, but will get the job done.

[Hirilonde]

I think a 3/4" bit which yeilds a 3/8" radius is way too small. Mine varied from 3/4" ridius (1 1/2" hole) at sharp corners to many inches at places like the keel batten. To top it off when you enter the hole with a saw you inevitably miss and either create a bump or cut into the hole and distort it. I think you will find you get a much smoother transition of you just saw around the interior of the frame in one smooth operation and I suggest a raidius much larger than 3/8". With some care in cutting you will have little sanding to do. I did all mine by hand with 80 grit in a matter of minutes per frame. Very often the best woodworking techniques are simple ones.

[Aethyr]

Was referencing Jeff's book, 3/4 or 1" Forstner hole in the corners.... I also have a hole saw if I need bigger.

[P Doug (WA)]

I used a 1" I think. It has the arc of a 1" bit. It's the arc of the diameter you are looking at, not the radius.

[Aethyr]

I have all the interiors cut out now, and in the process of sanding all the corners down on the exterior. About halfway done.

[Aethyr]

Its been awhile since I have posted here. I have just started tying the stringers to the frames. I used some rope to wrap around the kayak instead of bungee cords. After I tie down the gunwales, top, bottom stringers, then I will do the 2 edge ones and the top decks. Its sitting on a 2x4 strongback that ended up as a 5"x5" hollow square, on top of a pool table in my basement. Lots of clutter, need to spend a few and clean up. Also, I am using clamps to hold the frames to the bracket. The 2 outermost brackets don't really have space to screw the frame on, so I figured I rather not put holes in the frames altogether.

Looking back. You can see my first lash just started on the frame where my back will rest.

Profile shot.

Looking forwards. The lashing ending hasn't been tied yet. Left it there all night, and still looking pretty tight. Very useful!

[P Doug (WA)]

Looks like someone has tighter work quarters than even I have. But it is doable. I found that in tight quarters, clean up was necessary so every night I had a little clean up secession before I quit. Helped me keep my sanity. I found the lashing part very relaxing and always was able to do more each evening than I expected. Fact I hated to quit when I needed to. Yours is looking good. You may want to add more clamps if you don't use screws. It is essential that the frames do not move once everything is lines up. You well be doing some pretty serious pulling when you are lashing and you don't want things to move.

[Hirilonde]

Looking good. Lashing, sewing and such are dustless compared to most wood working, so you can do it almost anywhere, even living quarters as you are.

You may want to add more clamps if you don't use screws. It is essential that the frames do not move once everything is lines up. You well be doing some pretty serious pulling when you are lashing and you don't want things to move.

I agree, and even suggest c-clamps or other screw type. Finger clamps have their place, but are not really secure against loads like from lashing.

[Kudzu]

Good catch guys! I missed the clamps when I looked at it. By all means get some clamps with a screw for clamping. Those spring clamps will slip and you will end up with a twist in your boat. C-clamps work fine, I use those and a few small f-clamps on mine since I don't h ave enough of either one. Wood screws work, just need to fill the holes once the frame is off.

[Aethyr]

Thanks! Went out and bought 8 2" C Clamps. Quick question, is the center deck stringer suppose to lay flush to the frame? Or overlap some? I cut it flush, but now I am doubting myself.

[P Doug (WA)]

It needs (needed) to over lap a little. Fact on my next boat I won't trim the stringers that go into the opening until I get ready to put the coaming on. The coaming needs to rest on it and the other ones if possible. I had to fudge a little, I added an extension on mine. I drilled it and the extension piece to accept a dowel and epoxied it on with a doweled butt joint. I'm pretty darn sure it is going to hold. Little things like this is the reason I feel I must build another. Use the education I got doing the first one. Otherwise all that learn'n would be wasted. My wife just doesn't see it that way! But, after 45 years she knows I'm going to build another one anyway..... Fact I've already started.

[Aethyr]

I haven't made the coaming yet, perhaps I will oversize it an inch...

[Aethyr]

Everything is all tied up, except the floor boards and coaming. The big box store's selection of maple has alot to be desired. My neighbor several doors down runs an amateur saw mill in his pole barn that is bigger than my house, in his retirement. Haven't talked to him since we moved in, going to have to go knock on his door. Reading woodgears.ca has gotten me interested in sawmills, so it will be a fun trip if I can get him to show off.

Will making the coaming larger to make it sit on the frames in front/behind of my seat be any problem? I was thinking of lashing the coaming to the frames to prevent it from moving until I strap it down. Or should I peg the stringers back on as suggested?

[Hirilonde]

The size of a coaming is like many variables that are a boat. It is a compromise of many parameters, all of which effect others and are related. I doubt there would be any serious problem if you made it bigger, but I personally hate to change one parameter to correct for the mistake made to another. Replacing the deck stringer, or adding a support cleat to the frames are both so easy to do that I would choose one of those over changing something else such as the coaming.

The coaming isn't dealt with at all in the construction (other than making it and testing the fit) until the skin is sewn on. Lashing it to the frames will make sewing the skin very difficult and I don't see how it helps any. Strapping it in place over the skin works just fine. I see no reason to make this any more than it is. I just lashed mine in place on both kayaks and it worked fine. A ratcheting strap clamp like Jeff suggests would make it a breeze.

I don't understand what "peg the stringers back on" means, so I can't suggest whether I think it is a good idea or not.

Like P Douglas, I will leave my deck stringers long until I test fit the coaming from now on. That is just way too simple and idiot proof an idea to ignore.

[Aethyr]

I added an extension on mine. I drilled it and the extension piece to accept a dowel and epoxied it on with a doweled butt joint. I'm pretty darn sure it is going to hold.

[P Doug (WA)]

I added an extension on mine. I drilled it and the extension piece to accept a dowel and epoxied it on with a doweled butt joint. I'm pretty darn sure it is going to hold.

I wrote: "Fact on on my next boat I won't trim the stringers that go into the o[pening until I get ready to put the coaming on" I try to learn from the mistakes I made on my first boat.