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Take-a-part Spindrift 10N Tiller/Rudder


mjshp
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Just starting a Spindrift 10N. This will become the new tender on our 36 foot cruising boat, we are very excited.

In pouring over the plans, pictures this forum and the greater internet, one question has come up.

Has anyone built the rudder with a removable tiller? Storage is at a premium in our boat and it would be great to be able to break down the tiller from the rudder.

Surely someone with more ability than me has encountered and perhaps solved this problem.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts, ideas or resources.

Michael Sharp

59'30N 151'40W

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There are many options.

On a Welsford design I built some years ago, the design showed a rudder box with a slot in the head into which the tiller slid and was held by a pin.

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On my 2 paw I plan to do the rudder like Storer does for the Goat island skiff- this leaves tiller and rudder box together but allows very easy separation of rudder and tiller/rudder box whille allowing a kickup and depth adjustable rudder.

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HTH

Peter HK

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Has anyone built the rudder with a removable tiller? Storage is at a premium in our boat and it would be great to be able to break down the tiller from the rudder.

I did just that and for the very reason you state. I simply drilled a hole through the tiller at the very end and one aligned with it in the rudder housing. I use a 1/4" bolt, washer and wing nut as the pivot. This allows the tiller to tilt up and be removed. It is built just like the plans show, but not glued together. The only modification is a slight removal of part of the build up immediately under the tiller that would have interfered with the tilting. But you can choose to do this or not and still be able to remove the tiller for storage. It works great

post-442-0-76932100-1325343799_thumb.jpg

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I used a stainless 1/2 inch bolt with a big wing nut. It worked great. In shallow water I could stand and steer with my butt. (Ignore the visual you just got.) At anchor the tiller was set straight up and clear of the cockpit. Since the tiller lifted, the lazarette hatch could be centered.

Graham told me he had a much better "feel" with the solid joint. I'm sure he's right, but I can't tell the difference and just decided to never race him.

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The two ways I've seen used to build removable tillers from the rudder head are the previously mentioned method, where there are brackets or split cheeks on the tiller itself, which create a fork that slides over the rudder head and is pinned into place. My current 17 footer uses that type of arrangement.

The other is to build a "socket" or mortise hole in the rudder head, and slide or wedge the end of the tiller into that, and use a pin to lock it into place. One method puts the leverage strain on the tiller cheeks. The other on the rudder head. Pick your poison.

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