mjshp Posted December 30, 2011 Report Posted December 30, 2011 Just starting a Spindrift 10N. This will become the new tender on our 36 foot cruising boat, we are very excited. In pouring over the plans, pictures this forum and the greater internet, one question has come up. Has anyone built the rudder with a removable tiller? Storage is at a premium in our boat and it would be great to be able to break down the tiller from the rudder. Surely someone with more ability than me has encountered and perhaps solved this problem. Thanks in advance for any thoughts, ideas or resources. Michael Sharp 59'30N 151'40W Quote
hokeyhydro Posted December 30, 2011 Report Posted December 30, 2011 Have not built *that* rudder, both both kick-up rudders on the catamaran I built my daughter have removable tillers. One bolt so the tiller can stay down when the rudder kicks up - remove bolt, tiller comes off. Quote
Peter HK Posted December 30, 2011 Report Posted December 30, 2011 There are many options. On a Welsford design I built some years ago, the design showed a rudder box with a slot in the head into which the tiller slid and was held by a pin. On my 2 paw I plan to do the rudder like Storer does for the Goat island skiff- this leaves tiller and rudder box together but allows very easy separation of rudder and tiller/rudder box whille allowing a kickup and depth adjustable rudder. HTH Peter HK Quote
hokeyhydro Posted December 31, 2011 Report Posted December 31, 2011 Like your 2paw rudder, Peter. The Gougeon Bros. had a dagger board style rudder on i550 they redesigned to run the Everglades Challenge so they could jack it up for the skinny water - had a lifting bulb keel as well. Quote
Hirilonde Posted December 31, 2011 Report Posted December 31, 2011 Has anyone built the rudder with a removable tiller? Storage is at a premium in our boat and it would be great to be able to break down the tiller from the rudder. I did just that and for the very reason you state. I simply drilled a hole through the tiller at the very end and one aligned with it in the rudder housing. I use a 1/4" bolt, washer and wing nut as the pivot. This allows the tiller to tilt up and be removed. It is built just like the plans show, but not glued together. The only modification is a slight removal of part of the build up immediately under the tiller that would have interfered with the tilting. But you can choose to do this or not and still be able to remove the tiller for storage. It works great Quote
Hirilonde Posted December 31, 2011 Report Posted December 31, 2011 I then got carried away and had a friend sew me up a parfleche which keeps my rudder, tiller, daggerboard, and both seats in seperate compartments for protection, yet all bundled together for storage on board my Renegade. Quote
Gordy Hill Posted December 31, 2011 Report Posted December 31, 2011 I used a stainless 1/2 inch bolt with a big wing nut. It worked great. In shallow water I could stand and steer with my butt. (Ignore the visual you just got.) At anchor the tiller was set straight up and clear of the cockpit. Since the tiller lifted, the lazarette hatch could be centered. Graham told me he had a much better "feel" with the solid joint. I'm sure he's right, but I can't tell the difference and just decided to never race him. Quote
Hirilonde Posted December 31, 2011 Report Posted December 31, 2011 Graham told me he had a much better "feel" with the solid joint. If the fit is good you can't tell the difference. Quote
mjshp Posted January 1, 2012 Author Report Posted January 1, 2012 Thanks everyone for all the ideas. We are laminating the rudder blade and the daggerboard today. Quote
Howard Posted January 2, 2012 Report Posted January 2, 2012 The two ways I've seen used to build removable tillers from the rudder head are the previously mentioned method, where there are brackets or split cheeks on the tiller itself, which create a fork that slides over the rudder head and is pinned into place. My current 17 footer uses that type of arrangement. The other is to build a "socket" or mortise hole in the rudder head, and slide or wedge the end of the tiller into that, and use a pin to lock it into place. One method puts the leverage strain on the tiller cheeks. The other on the rudder head. Pick your poison. Quote
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