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How to Make OARS?


Maria CS20 104

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Obviously I have a boat, CS20 104 and I am down to the short strokes and need something to do as small parts and pieces are busy drying coats and coats of varnish inside the sun room in the house. I have a 2 x12 x 16' fir board and lots of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2 " scrap strips, plent of epoxy and varnish and too much spare time. I think I need 10 foot oars for the boat, just based on research and the 6' 3" beam. With this length I think the fir is the best choice for strength but I defer to the masters and look forward to getting input. the looms will be 1 x 1/2" x 1 x 1/2 " octagon (or 1 x 1/2" x 2" semi-octagon shaped. I am thinking cut the looms to length (10') and cut sides to the paddle ends (3') and glue up the working end strips to the oars so they are 5 1/2" to 6" wide..................... just an idea, need better info

Thanks

Jim

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I built oars out of white ash. One could use these beasts to repel boarding pirates, but they are way too heavy for comfy rowing. Next set from spruce, just lumberyard stuff. Fairly light, nice looking, an strong enough = no way my skinny tail can haul them hard enough to bend or break them. Fir may be heavy - especially on a 10' oar. Heft a few pine/spruce boards and go with light.

Assembly? I did the looms, glued on paddle parts - shaped. I did 8-side the looms above the paddle parts before attaching the extra pieces. Easier - ran it thru the router. For the paddle end a portable belt sander with mega-grit paper came in real handy. Also whacked parts that didn't look like an oar off with a drawknife.

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Clint chase gives a nice class on Oarmaking at Wooden Boat School. I learned a lot by sneaking a peak in form time to time during breaks in the electrical course I gave.

As to issue of a=oars being too heavy. Heaviness is much less an issue of the oars are balanced. Balancing takes place by fitting copper tubes filled with lead in the handles to get the right balance..

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