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Back to Work on my spindrift 11N


Steve W

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She's 3-D. a couple of questions.

1. the side pnels extend about 1/4 of an inch past the stern panels. I measured three times. I'm assuming I trim the side panels a paralell amount. Anyone care to comment?

2. I'm assuming the panels are put together such that the bottom panels butt up to the sides. Of course, the sides coudl rest on the bottom, but I doubt that, and they could be beveled, but I saw no mention in the plans.

3. There is talk in the fine print (it's all fine, my eyes aren't what they used to be) that it's importnt to keep the panels fair. I can only imagine it would be possible to warp the bottom, but how is it possible to get ti all straight if I only have it wired together, and I can't flip it?

That's all for now.

Take Care,

Steve

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Stitch & glue panels are normally edge-rounded where panels are stitched together. This allows the panels to get squeezed tight by the wire stitches without one sliding off and causing a lopsided joint. The round-off is sort of like a bevel on the edge except rounded, of course. Viewed from the end an imaginary centerline on each panel edge (center ply is a good reference) should intersect at the middle of the joint, just like they would if you beveled them. The rounded edge allows the panels to be shifted a tad as you "massage" the joints fair. And after you wind the hull to level her out you may have to tweak a few joint areas again before locking the panels down with epoxy.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The devil is in the details they say. Upon further review, I forgot to do two things when I cut the panels last spring. I got the flu, and after sort of recovering, stitched it together. I forgot to bevel the bottom panels together and so when I stitched it it was impossible to get fair. I unwired it and in about 5 minutes fixed that. While I was at it, I remeasured everything and I realized I forgot to cut the end of the side panels off. duh! I cut them and re-wired it last night and it went together just beautifully.

I've had my kids helping me on all the measuring, and of course I've benn checking it, but somehow these two misses got by us. I'm sure there will be more. But I'm excited to get gluing now that she is straight and fair.

Take Care,

Steve

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I usually do not round the corners or put a bevel on them unless I am unable to get the two panels to lay right. I have taken a small hand saw and cut along the edges without removing the stitching to get them to form together evenly. Sometime the stitching will need adjusting too. I have built several stitch and glue boats, and several other types too, such as lap strake. I absolutely hate rework and avoid it whenever possible.

I have sold all but my Spindrift 12S and the Amphora that the boys built a few years ago. I may never sell it as it has sentimental emotions for me and my two youngest sons.

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Yep, a brain fart. Word of warning, the BF per day increases with age. My fav &^%$#&( BF is when I mix a batch opof epoxy and then remember I forgot to: A) Cut the part B) shape the part C) attach a cleat or whatever is required to fit the part. And I have a pot of goo cooking off . . . YEEPS!

Anyway, you caught it before glue so crisis avoided. Good job. Young uns helping is a big plus. They will never forget those shop days with dad - never.

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Steve, I have used white oak, sassafras, cherry, and yellow pine for breasthooks, butt blocks, and knees. The size often determines what I will use and I look at the wood characteristics to make the decision. My favorites are the Sassafras and White Oak, but will use the Cherry if I am lucky enough to find it.

What species of wood for items like breasthooks? I used cedar for the transome stiffener, but it seems something stronger is in order for the breasthooks.

Take Care,

Steve

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