woodman Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Pics.. it weighs 18 lbs at this stage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Doug (WA) Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 NOW THAT IS JUST FLAT EXCITING!! Really looks good to me. I envy you guys and the room you have. Mine is going to be done in a tight space. I'm anxious to hear how this type kayak compares to your strip built ones as far as handling in the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 That really does look sweet. There is just something about a fair curved shape made out of wood. Makes one want to consider a clear skin just to show off the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Thanks guys...I really like looking at the hull for the first time (being it is assembled the reverse of a strip boat)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Doug (WA) Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Looks like some adjusting is needed. I wouldn't think the stern top should stick up 1/4'' above the frame? Measure from the bottom of the slot to the top of the stern piece. It should be 1" from the bottom of the slot to the top of the stringer and the rear stern. I try to make them the same or the stern piece a little lower than the stringer so that you have a smooth transition. Something else to watch is when you add the Gunwales you will almost certainly need to shape the edge of the stern to get smooth transition there. The gunwale are angled and since the stern is cut square that will leave an ugly bump when you skin. So I take a rasp or plane and shave it down to get a smooth transition. Jeff is this what you are talking about here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Yes. Or just a little less than 1", then you can shave it down to get a smooth transition. Just trying to keep a smooth look in the skin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 I got the frame coated with linseed oil...nice how all the wood has a gold tint to it..brings that white birch more closer to the cedar color... it sure soaks it up...is one good coat enough? I guess tomorrow I'll wipe it down with a clean rag to see if their is any residue.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Doug (WA) Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Is there an advantage of Linseed Oil over Tongue Oil or visa versa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 My advantage was ...That is all the hardware store carried so I didn't have to go searching.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Tung oil is great on furniture, but I wouldn't want to use it as protection for a boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted November 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 The coaming...What is to prevent it from rubbing through the lashing or the skin where it rests? And seems like when getting in and out it would tend to rock sideways, does the skin really prevent this or is their some flex? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted November 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 Well the foot rests arrived today.... so I can work on those brackets.... And the seat I have been transfering between my boats I want to use...being it costs $150.. I have some 1/16'' X 1 1/2''X1 1/2'' aluminum angle I bent at the 30 deg. angle I will bolt to the gunwale stringer for the seat mount.. The seat backrest straps can be clipped onto the coaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Doug (WA) Posted November 23, 2011 Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 Ha, the seat cost more than I well have invested in my whole boat! Well I well go over that if I buy the footrests and I can't readily see a way to build them for cheaper than they cost. I have an inflatable seat for my inflatable kayak but I think it will sit me too high in the kayak. I well probably sit on a piece of foam for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted November 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 I saw this seat in one of the kayaks at the Bass Pro shop and have used it in about all my yaks...I will make it removable in this also.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted November 24, 2011 Report Share Posted November 24, 2011 That seat looks mighty tall for that boat from what I can see in the photos. 1/2" of height can make a BIG difference in the stability and this boat is not going to be anywhere near as stable as what you shown you have built. You want your bottom as low as you can get it. Maybe you not as high as it looks in the photos but from what I see I seriously doubt your going to be able to paddle with that seat. The seats I use are about 1/2" thick ? No more than 1" for sure. I built a toothpick of a boat that I really struggled with. I could paddle it but it took all my attention to keep it upright. I was sitting on an old type writter pad. They are maybe 3/4" thick. I could remove that pad and just sit on the floor boards and the difference was night and day! It went from a wild ride to a manageable unstable ride. I was stunned at how much that little bit of difference made in the stability of the boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted November 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2011 Oh boy sounds like bad news from this end...how much are we talking for a seat bottom like you use? And how thick are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted November 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2011 Ok I laid a straight edge across the top of the gunwale chine to get a depth measurement of the lowest part of the seat while pushing down pressure against the seat...Took the seat out and measured down to the same area of the bottom floor board and my seat is 1 1/4'' up from the bottom floor. I now realize how critical this is, being the floor is 1'' above the water... Unlike a wood boat.. my seat would have no problem in the Chesapeake 16 which has a beam of 23.5'' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodman Posted November 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 The seat is easily removable.. The back has a bungee to hold it in place.. The side straps would have to clip onto the coaming.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Doug (WA) Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 Looks nice and comfy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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