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okcracoke 20 in nz


nzlance

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As you can see space is pretty tight. Before I could start the boat I had to sell my other boat, concrete the drive, build a carport and mill up some massive hart kauri beams I salvaged from a villa. (Kauri is a nz native timber, excellent for boat building. strong, lite, beautiful to work and rot resistant.) The stern of the boat has been modified to a portifino style to aid exiting the water after diving. I might also add a cabin, the dury is still out on that one. centre consols are fab over summer. not so flash during the winte. I myself not to worried about getting wet, its my better half opting for cabin, toilet....... you get my drift.

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Will try my best, as you can see the shed/carport is not much bigger than boat so its impossible to get pics from the side. Only bow and stern.

Frames and stringers are set up and glued. Next task is to set the chines in. Grayham has designed quite an interesting detail here. Never seen anything like it before on such a big boat, but looks simple enough and will certainly make things quick.

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some more pics of chines and stringers, pretty slow process as each one has to have the edges routered to a radius to aid fibre glassing. Considering hot coating the stringers with resin then sheathing the inside of the boat with say a layer of 4mm ply and glassing that instead so you have a nice clean looking interior.Not sure. I know it would add weight. I ended up making the stringers all 25 mm wide instead of 25 x 19 like Graham (sorry for mis-spelling name in previous post) called for. Just in case this is done. If anyone out there has any comments or suggestions out there they would be greatly appreciated.

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The last pic is looking up into the stern. Its a portifino style with a walk trough door. It differs from the plan alot so going to add alot of timber and glass to make sure nothing bad happens. Alot of leverage on this part of boat. Planning on powering it with 115 either Etec or Yam 4 stroke which weigh 200 kg plus. The manufacturers are a little mis- leading with there quoted weights. It doesnt include oil,coolent,battery, cables or even prop. So theres always a bit more bouncing around back there than I first thought.

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Just about finished the stringers, have to laminate the one inside the shear band as I managed to break two thanks to the tight curve.

Spent a bit of time framing up inside the transom, have to add alo more ply etc but will be alot easier to do once boat is flipped.

Also faired one side of the boat, not quite there yet but bottom planking is the next big step. Brought a Veritas standard angle block plane to help shape stringers. All I can say is what a brilliant piece of equipment, razor sharp straight out of the box, blade adjustment very accurate. Worth every cent, find yourself picking it up to do everything. End grain not a prob.

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Started bottom planking on weekend. First two sheets were 12mm with a 6mm x 150 mm rebate at the front edge to take two staggered layers of 6mm Gaboon ply. (seems alot lighter than meranti) All has gone pretty well so far. All the side stringers have been faired and ready to plank. The whole fairing process seemed to go very quickly and easily. I think the chine design has alot to do with it as there is no massive chine log that needs hours of planning and shaping. The chine flats are simply cut from 12mm ply , glued into place and faired once dry. The side planking is then glued to this with 3 layers of glass to give the whole chine strength along its entire length with a nice sharp bow profile.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Cheers dmnolan. Cant vouch for boats performance yet, but to build is pretty straight forward. New pics show have nearly compleated first layer of planking one one side and have started 2nd layer on other side. I had to stop because a stringer snapped when I put a screw through it for some reason. They are under a hell of alot of tension I guess.So some swearing , epoxy and a couple of cramps all is good again.

You can see in the pics the chine detail whereby a rebate is created in the bottom planking that tapers from nothing to 8mm deep at the bow to allow the side planking to flush up neatly with bottom planking. It makes for a nice clean sharp bow profile. I have noticed on many (most infact) caroliner style boats that a chine is created by sticking in a piece of tapered timber once the hull is built. This way looks much better. Makes for a wider chine too which doesnt protrude from the hull.

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